Farmweld

Members
  • Content Count

    180
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Farmweld

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.farmweld.com.au

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Birdwood, South Australia

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Rockstar, reminds me of a comment from one of my old bosses. He always used to say he would give the really hard jobs to the laziest guy in the hangar and he would work out the quickest and easiest way to do it. Funny now when I think of the number of jobs he used to send my way.
  2. Hi Darryl, Sorry for the late reply, haven't been on here for a while. I'll chase it up and get some in and get back to you once I've got it. Any chance of a PM with your email/mobile number and then we can arrange it all offline? Andrew
  3. I got mine through Southern Steel Supplies. I can check with them who they buy it from but I know they had it in stock a month ago. If all else fails I can cut some down to 1m lengths and post it up to you. A quick check with the online calculator says I can get 10m to you for about $30 - $35 and the cost of the stock is $10. Let me know if you want some. Andrew
  4. I agree with Frosty, break it up smaller. The coke you have there would be OK if your forge was twice the size and you could mound it up more to get more of a coke oven effect, but you would need to be working big stock to justify a fire that big. Andrew
  5. Hi Ausfire, Can't remember where I got that lot from as it was about a year ago and I tend to order from whoever can give me the cheapest price. There are a heap of different suppliers in Adelaide who all bag each other and trade amongst themselves all the time so you have to play them off against each other to get the best price. Galv pipe I will always buy from Orrcon as they have an aussie product which is electroplated rather then dipped and its a lot better to weld, bugger all fumes/smoke and spatter. The rolling mills in the eastern states mainly produce pipe and RHS/SHS, Whyalla rolls rail and heavy sections. Most of the black steel in Australia in the smaller sizes is imported so your dealer just needs to shop around, someone will have it.
  6. Hi Ausfire, Tell them to do a bit more shopping around because we can get all those sizes in Adelaide no problems so they are still making them. If all else fails I can probably get some and ship it up to you but freight from SA to Cairns is not going to be cheap. I suppose I could cut some down to 1m lengths and post it up! Maybe I'll have to attempt to take some time off and come for a drive with steel and coke in the back of the truck. Andrew
  7. A couple of snakes I made a while ago when I was given some 32mm rebar. both are about 1500mm long and I made the flat one first as a "what can I do with this exercise". The wearable one was made next because my son wanted something he could wander around with and scare people. He (the snake) has had his picture taken with lots of people since.
  8. I just had a commission from a customer to build a handrail for their backyard pool. They supplied a picture of what they liked that they had found online and I had to modify the design to suit their requirements. I started with 2700mm of 50x25 solid flat and drew the end out over 1750mm to about 50x5mm and then fish tailed the end to start the scroll. This picture is half way through when I had the basic shape and the short end made as well. I made up the base out of 10mm plate plasma cut to suit and formed and then welded the whole lot together. Finished product (minus the mounting frame) on the wall outside the workshop. The spike under the front is to stop it tipping over. Had the whole lot hot dipped and now I have to paint it. Here it is on a pallet after being hot dipped. I'll post some more pictures after it has been painted and installed Andrew
  9. And parts of it may once have been, not sure what it is now. Andrew
  10. I love that candle holder, very simple but elegant, already thinking of ways to put my own spin on it. It would be easier to forge out of 300mm of 20x10mm than 150mm of 20mm square though, same material volume just starting stock closer to finished size. Is this allowed under the rules or do you have to use square stock? Andrew
  11. I used a textured spring swage and twist techniques as suggested by Thomas above to make these door handles. Four 12mm round bars for the main part and a fair bit of sweat twisting them up using an Oxy/Acc with a heating tip. I cheated with the leaves and grapes using pre-made components but it looked alright in the end. I would have liked to make my own but I was already pushing the customers price point as it was.
  12. Hi Arftist, We do a line of replicas of the old cast jointed field gates that used to be available in Australia. I get a local foundry to make the castings up for me (took ages to get enough good old castings to make molds from) and then we tack them together using a pure nickel MIG wire (who says you can't MIG cast iron). Once that is done we use a Oxy/Acc metal powder spray torch to weld the whole lot together using a pure nickel powder. Expensive as but the best way I have found yet to get them to stick together well without melting the castings. Tried bronzing but it took too long and the welds looked too "blobby" when finished. The pure nickel powder tends to wick into the joint really well and actually looks fairly close to the original castings. All that aside these are still not as strong as the original cast joints but I don't have the skills necessary to run my own foundry. Maybe one day, after I finish all the other things I want to do first. Andrew
  13. Aus, Perhaps try turning it around and flatten the wrought bar and put holes in it for the screw mounts and use the casting as the detail on the coat hook. Not as fancy as a nice scroll finial but you get to use the piece anyway and the casting definitely won't punch through a coat or hat. Andrew
  14. Hi Ausfire, I have seen a couple of bedheads and gates with joints like this that have cracked and in most cases the bar or pipe has been cut with a mechanical shear which distorts the end of the material and provides a "key" into the casting. They were made by cutting all the pipe/solid to length, bolting molds around each joint and then pouring in the cast iron to make up the joint. You won't have much chance getting them apart short of melting the cast iron. I've restored a heap of the cast jointed gates over the years and there was a period just after WW2 when a heap were made with pipe that didn't have the seam welded. As soon as I see that I tell the customer to junk it because it doesn't matter how many coats of paint are on the outside it is guaranteed to be rusted out internally. Your best bet might be to grind the ends smooth and then bend them up cold as the wrought should be fairly ductile compared to steel the same size. Regards Andrew
  15. Yes I've made something similar to that. It was a slider for a speedway bike rider. Strapped onto the bottom of his left boot so he could slide his foot and keep the bike up. Interesting thought - do speedway riders in the northern hemisphere ride clockwise or anticlockwise like water going down the plug? Andrew