basher

The way I do axes generally is to start with a big enough mass of steel to draw the beard from either by upsetting the edge section back or by forging a larger section down to get the eye .I do this prior to punching or drifting .I would then punch the eye out and forge the blade, working fullers across the blade to get the beard width . I hope that makes sense the 3 axes there have 3 different constructions one is a bow tie folded and forged welded around a center core of the same steel . The other two are punched ,one having a damascus edge welded to it .

thanks unicorn forge and Beth . Beth ,There is an old smithy in Gloucester docks that I had always wanted to visit (and a helve hammer I wanted to see) .A friend of mine used to work it but has since left the country .

Hello Dave .

Dave , if your blade is made from "random" or simple laminar damascus then grinding will give your pattern far more parallel lines following the edge (as you cut through more layers making the bevel). Hammering the bevels in will tend to give a more wood grain like pattern near the edge (as the action of the hammer pushing one layer below another will be more evident).both have there place . If you have a look on one of the bladesmithing sites at stock removal damascus blades as opposed to forged damascus blades the difference will be evident . If the pattern is complex or twisted then once again the effects will be quite different . It is quite unlikly that your blade is nickel silver and steel (nickel silver is a silver coloured brass is ) and more likley pure Nickel and steel .

I have been running one gas forge or another for about 15 years now (in many different configurations ) and they do have there limitations as to what can be shoved into them .I tend to work multiple pieces of steel at a time and set the gas forge so that it is below burning temp .that way you can just pull the piece out and go .I never really noticed the even large heat zone being a disadvantage I started with and still use a coke forge but in all honesty I reckon I use the gas 90%+ and the coke for the trixy remainder with big pieces or high temp welding of wrought . the only way I have found to maker a smaller heat zone is to make a smaller Gas forge . Gas forges have taken quite a while to take off in the UK with blacksmiths I am never sure why .

I hope you managed to get your piece done by last weekend .sounds like a nice project .I think cauldron are wonderful things and I had not read about the seasoning of them although it makes sense (much like curing a leaking radiator with mustard powder) .Tinning is a great way of sealing them up but make sure you get lead free tinning past that is suitable for drinking water .the joins have to be pretty tight to get tin to flow by capilary action between the plates .

Hello . here are some of the axes that I have made .I love axes ,the are one of the most blacksmithy tools . hope you like them . thanks for looking all the best Owen

Hi , I am a blacksmith bladesmith based just outside of London England .I do engineering ,general balcksmithing and make swords and Teach bladesmithing .This looks like a good site I look forward to joining in..... here is some of my work . A hybrid messer saxon sword tip Frog princess bed Thanks for looking