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Everything posted by philip in china
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Question for Experianced
philip in china replied to Fatfudd's topic in Anvils, Swage Blocks, and Mandrels
I have quite a few similar. Some I made myself. Others I got from blackbird tools ( www.incandescent-iron.com ). I don't use them a lot but they can be very useful. I also made a stand and one day I shall post some images. I have been saying that for about 5 years now. -
#150 Sheffield Anvil ??
philip in china replied to Tbayalistair's topic in Anvils, Swage Blocks, and Mandrels
What is your price range? What work would you want to do on it? -
hypothetical RR track question
philip in china replied to Dogbyte's topic in Anvils, Swage Blocks, and Mandrels
I think I have a piece of the puzzle missing but don't worry. -
I have a place in Bulgaria, in Gradishte near Veliko Tarnovo. Do we have any members who live in Bulgaria?
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hypothetical RR track question
philip in china replied to Dogbyte's topic in Anvils, Swage Blocks, and Mandrels
I am no wiser, probably just better informed. What is this about? -
Cheap New Anvils
philip in china replied to PaulKrzysz's topic in Anvils, Swage Blocks, and Mandrels
Could be of interest to me, though, for my place in Bulgaria. -
Those cast iron anvils are a bit special aren't they? I use my big one as an advert. It is outside my smithy with a hammer bolted through the hardy hole.
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How about a purple anvil? any takers?
philip in china replied to Nick Esposito's topic in Anvils, Swage Blocks, and Mandrels
Bright anvils are a good idea, especially the horn. You are less likely to catch yourself on a brightly painted horn (obviously not the top). Why not paint the sides of an anvil? See my other thread about rust forming more slowly on the alloy steel rhino anvils in the shop as compared with carbon steel anvils. -
Small anvil, W.H. Pepper?
philip in china replied to neg's topic in Anvils, Swage Blocks, and Mandrels
What a lovely little paperweight. Don't expect to forge anything very big on that one. I have a similar one by the UK company "Record". It actually is an anvil but they were given away as adverts rather than sold as tools. My sons used to play with mine. -
hypothetical RR track question
philip in china replied to Dogbyte's topic in Anvils, Swage Blocks, and Mandrels
You have lost me there! -
hypothetical RR track question
philip in china replied to Dogbyte's topic in Anvils, Swage Blocks, and Mandrels
If the end of the rail is bigger than the face of your hammer what are you worried about? I would go for vertical mounting of a piece long enough to set into the floor or get a slightly shorter piece and just cast it into a bucket of concrete. -
Rust on anvils
philip in china replied to philip in china's topic in Anvils, Swage Blocks, and Mandrels
I don't think we have enough info to speculate on what series steel it is. I know they are "as hard as a mother in law's heart and as tough as a mother in law's tongue". They are not alloyed to anything like the levels of stainless of course. -
old Anvil swage block i dug up from backyard
philip in china replied to tonyspag's topic in Swage Blocks
Looks to me like a one off cast iron swage block. Probably just cast in sand to a pattern made up locally. The completely flat side makes it look as if it isn't professionally designed. A wonderful find. -
Rust on anvils
philip in china replied to philip in china's topic in Anvils, Swage Blocks, and Mandrels
So the alloy elements in the Rhino anvils probably does retard rust a bit then. I suppose older anvils were just a simple carbon steel rather than an alloy steel. -
I was clearing up and doing a bit of painting around the shop today. I noticed that the two Rhino anvils seem to rust less than my Brooks and less than some of my loose tools. Would that be because of the nickel and chromium in the alloy of the Rhino anvils? All the stuff is in the same shop, same humidity and temperature etc.
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Hardie, tapered or straight?
philip in china replied to andys MQ's topic in Tools, general discussion
I have a number of hardies as you would expect. I have only one with a tapered shank. I don't think it matters. If you have a tapered shank make sure you have a good collar on it. Otherwise as you are using it you are driving a wedge into your anvil. At best that is likely to get jammed in fairly tight. At worst you would be risking breaking the heel off your anvil. Probably my favourite hardie is one that fits my baby rhino anvil. That is a piece of railway line with the actual line cut off and the web forged to a rounded edge- like an axe. That one has a parallel shank arc welded underneath. Of course the base of the line provides a very large base. The anvil is small so the risk of a broken heel is greater than on one of my larger anvils. -
Do you need to repair it? Can't you just work around it? Let's see some pictures first. Don't be in too much of a hurry to get welding.
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How to NOT mount an anvil
philip in china replied to Tubularfab's topic in Anvils, Swage Blocks, and Mandrels
Does it say 3/4 CWT. 3/4 of a hundredweight would be 84 pounds which is bang on with what you have said about the weight. -
A single bick is only "traditional" in some places. In continental europe the double bick was very common. Many anvils nowadays are double bick and they do give the user more shapes to use. (See the Hofi anvil and the Euro anvil for example). One neweer design is something like the Rhino. That has 2 bicks- well almost but you still get a step. Most double bicks don't have the step. When I used a double bick I must admit I missed that step. that is one reason why I like the Rhinos so much. In the final analysis it doesn't really matter what anvil you have got- it is what you do with it that counts!
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Why not a cast anvil
philip in china replied to TJ Smith's topic in Anvils, Swage Blocks, and Mandrels
Hear hear. A couple of good brands mentioned there. Virtually all modern anvils are cast- but they are cast steel and the difference is chalk and cheese. I have a couple of Chinese made cast iron anvils here which I use for some purposes but not for forging on. Cast iron deforms so much as you are hammering it absorbs a lot of the energy of the hammer. You will wear yourself out working on one. You would do much better just with a big piece of scrap steel.