ThomasPowers

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About ThomasPowers

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  • Gender
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  • Location
    Central NM/El Paso TX Area, USA
  • Interests
    Iron Smelting

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  • Location
    Central NM
  • Interests
    Iron smelting
  • Occupation
    bit herder
  1. Swamp cooler should work great, try to adjust is so there is a cool breeze where you will stand working at the forge...
  2. well my BBQ burns wood; but my house furnace and hot water heater have variations on that system, they both use propane...
  3. Like the old joke: "How far can you swim wearing a maille shirt?" "How deep is the lake?" (Though my maille shirt was about the same weight as what I had on my weight belt for scuba when wearing a wetsuit...)
  4. I guess you are more the sort of person that takes your anvils out swimming than to a ballgame?
  5. Sorry; I had read that as: "either way I plan on using it not ; a museum piece so doesn't bother me if its not original." I must clean my monitor's screen more often...
  6. Some of the old equipment may have a "sacrificial gear"; so if something's going to break it will be *that* one and you only need to stock that one for parts. Unfortunately they are not stocked anywhere nowadays and tend to degrade over time---or to put it another way: Good Luck! (Murphy's Law also states that expensive and hard to make parts will sacrifice themselves to save the life of the cheap easily sourced sacrificial parts...)
  7. Swamp coolers lose efficiency at humidities over 30% but work great when they are in the single digits and they tend to move a lot of air. Going into the house and standing under the swamp cooler vent is a fast way to cool off down here...
  8. What is the humidity like? Where I live in the desert we generally have extremely low humidities much of the year and so 108 degF in the shade out here with single digit humidities feels a LOT cooler than 88 degF back in Ohio with 95% humidity. Methods of dealing with heat: Open air forge with a shade roof and often a fan on the smith. Good out where I live; "Old Shade"---a Tree is cooler than "new shade" a metal roof or tarp. Working after dark; tends to bring out the neighbors with Pitchforks and Torches after a while... Dress and use of cooling items therein---I like to wrap ice cubes in my bandana; or soak my felt forging hat in water before starting for instance Using an induction forge and air conditioning the smithy! I know a guy who does this! Massive masonry heat sink walls; start early stop when the place heats up, let it cool off overnight---ventilation during night time hours... A variation of this is working in a cave---but be SURE your ventilation is GOOD to vent toxic fumes from the forge. One final item is HYDRATION; make it a habit of keeping your water and electrolyte balance topped up. I had a friend come out and visit and he nearly had to go to the hospital his first day as he was from a damp climate and didn't realize that in my dry climate he was sweating heavily because it was evaporating and so he felt "dry".
  9. Bends like that are often done cold with special forms. (or rolled to get circles.) Can you go into more detail of why you want to do it hot? Bending tubing hot is very prone to kinking or collapsing it and so may require special forms as well to bend on/with and then also have the extra difficulty of working with hot metal.
  10. Only thing I would add is the term "standing wave" to that explanation. But the concept of designing an item with the vibration nodes dealt with is one of the key ones in explaining why a sword is not just a "big knife" . (And you can often tell if a sword was made by someone who actually knows how to make them or only thinks they know how to make them that way---weight is another good indicator and an easier one to ask about...)
  11. Well I don't have to worry much about moisture out here and it is nicer on the joints and back than a concrete floor. Cheap too.
  12. I flattened the grip area and added handle scales---I also have a large lanyard hole on the end (required by some groups) to prevent weapon loss in battle. This is another weapon where putting the grip in a vibration node is suggested.
  13. The forging part of my shop has a sand/clay floor and no matter how often I sweep it it continues to be dusty, sigh...
  14. Were those Australian dollars? What kind of an anvil do you need? For good answers you need to provide DETAILS! Here in the USA I have been able to buy great anvils, my 515# Fisher in mint condition was US$350; but that was because I went out and FOUND them and so got great deals on them rather than paying a lot more buying them from people trying to make a profit from selling them.
  15. I have found that when it's 112 degF outside that you can draw down your propane tank to amazingly low levels.