ThomasPowers

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About ThomasPowers

  • Rank
    Senior Moment Member; Master Curmudgeon

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  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Central NM/El Paso TX Area, USA
  • Interests
    Iron Smelting

Converted

  • Location
    Central NM
  • Interests
    Iron smelting
  • Occupation
    bit herder
  1. A great beginner's anvil; they have just priced it US$200 over what it should go for
  2. with a bit of care that tongue could flex in the wind bobbing up and down with the fly or something on the end...
  3. "No Modern Use" was one of the references I checked so it may be difficult to find a source. There are several academics working to smelt and work with the stuff you might check with them on purchasing some...Perhaps a post on the Archmetals mailing list?
  4. Can you tell us anything about what you will be using them for or should we just guess? If you want to conserve money the telling us what you plan to do will be much more money efficient!
  5. If charcoal I would commend to your attention the `Tim Lively washtub forge` as an easily and inexpensively built charcoal forge designed for bladesmithing. If you are not a skilled bladesmith you don't need to worry about swords quite yet---sort of like telling us you plan to race in the Indy 500 and you want to buy a race car cheap to learn how to drive in... I spent 4 years near the Castleton Mall in the Indy area; hope to see you at Quad State one year and please look into going to the IBA Conference June 2-4 where there will be a bunch of smiths and blacksmithing equipment for sale; well worth selling plasma to attend! http://www.indianablacksmithing.org/Conferences/2017_Brochure.pdf
  6. To quote Big Trouble in Little China: "Marry them Both!" I'd suggest going to any meetings you can manage and decide which group suites your needs and tastes and then specialize... The MOB, Mid Ohio Blacksmiths, started out as a group of people who would carpool the 2 hours to get to SOFA meetings from the Columbus Ohio area. Oh don't forget to ask folks if they know any good smiths in your local area. I remember one fellow who was very surprised to learn that the President of the local smithing affiliate lived on his road...(He posted about it this year as I recall) Many smiths are trying to fly under the radar and so they may not be obvious when you pass their place...
  7. Last time I checked I'd end up somewhere in the south indian ocean
  8. The basic rule is: If you find yourself in a hole; the first thing to do is to stop digging! Unfortunately many of us call up for some dynamite...
  9. The do not grind gets added to pretty much all "rough" anvil posts; as we have so many folks out there who will grind or mill their anvil face and so destroy it's usability! It really hurts when it's an anvil that didn't need it at all! So you got it as a standard comment. As the table is soft my guess would be that it's an aftermarket retrofit by a previous owner. Does the bottom show any sings of punching it? (In which case it would have been a factory feature)
  10. As they were welding several thousand years before that style of anvil came around, I doubt it was pre welding days. Now it might be pre arc welding days; but definitely not pre forge welding days. The fire question deals with not only enhanced rust; but also the possibility that the face may have been softened. The ball bearing test should show that after it's cleaned. Don't do any grinding on the face! But you may want to arc weld the waist back together---full penetration weld would be best.
  11. TPAAAT---at least that what it says on the shirt...
  12. You know our members in Iceland, Hawaii ot Norfolk Island are probably envious at how close you are to so much smithing stuff and you have bridges linking you to "the mainland"! Yet they manage to smith.
  13. Remember everything we post is not just for you but for the myriad of other people reading here. So sometimes special cases get overridden by the general!
  14. Do you have any questions that the 87 hits you get when you search all content majestic don't answer?
  15. I'd go with offset the plate and do a full weld leaving no unwelded areas between the face and body: 100% chance of success