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Nice first hammer. It should serve you well. Looks like you might want to pull the cheeks out on the drift a bit. What shape is your drift to get a round shaped eye?

Is this going to be a production Item? I'd be interested in getting one.

Great looking tongs. Are you making these all under the PH with a jig or are you forging the jaws on the anvil?

Nice work Congrats. I myself am in a very ambitious and complex project with grids of slits, drifts, mortices and tenons in a maze right now. Progress is slow and daunting, but you're right precision along the way is everything.

Nice looking tooling. I'm very pleased with the flypress tool holders you made for me.

I have an old Garden Denver 7.5 hp screw. The local repair guy told me that the only thing that really goes out in is the bearings as long as water is not left sitting in them. Not sure about your specific unit but for that price i'd give it a try. The motor and dryer are worth that i'd think.

I like your swage block. Never seen one like it it has very nice lines.

Beautiful shop Mr Coke. It must be a joy to spend time there.

Any tips for welding h13 punches and drifts to steel 1" bolts that I'm going to use for my flypress mounts to go into the ram. Was going to TIG it but also have stick and mig capabilities if those work better somehow. What type of filler rod and pre/post heat are recommended? It has also been recommended to braze or silver solider and not weld at all? Curious to here what people here have actually done and works and what didn't work. Thanks, dw

I've been using a flywheel splitter to heat my home for a few years. For the wood I split (mostly locust and oak) superior to any hydraulic splitter i've ever used as the cycle time is <25% of the hydraulic. Thinking about making some forging die shoes for it. Check out supersplit.com. There are also some amish built knock offs of these.

I have a whisper daddy and it's a simple good forge. Never used a JHM anvil but it is also a reputable brand. Your question was simple and straight forward, I don't get the prius or dump truck response. If some of the people on here spent the time and energy forging that they do wagging their fingers at new folks . . Whatever you do don't ask about making a sword It is not finger waging to ask for more information. Most of the people asking for more information have forged a lot, and they have proved it with their photos in posts. After smithing a while beginners will begin to understand that one size does not fit all, so the more experianced smiths were trying to head problems off This poster said nothing about swords, perhaps I missed that part?

What concentration do you use? What is your rinse or neutralize procedure?

They must be on an IFI server backup somewhere . . .no? I Site admins your help would be appreciated here. Brian's thorough efforts to document his processes where extremely well photographed and explained. This post with photos should be a sticky or blueprint as well as some of the other techniques he has documented here.

Very nice ball fuller. Gonna make one like this.

You could to attach some fake dreads to your welding helmet like the guy in photo 3.

For punches i use Beeswax. After the bees wax I dip it in a little coal dust and scale to lubricate punching.

I have an outside gate project that is going to consist of 3" x 3"x.25" mild angle frames back to back and galvanized stock panel in the middle. Looking to get a Cor Ten looking finish with out using Corten. What is everyones experience with sealing or clear coating rusted steel.

i don't think you will get that chunk of steel to critical temp with a weed burner. Use it as is. what orientation were you going to place them in?

Wilmont Grinder 2 x 72 with 3 phase VFD for speed control. Most used tool in the shop.

After hearing a lot of deragatory opinions of the Blu hammers initially and only seeing some very early models I purchased an Iron Kiss hammer even though Blu is right down the road from me. Then, after having actually used a couple current blu hammers and meeting all the folks at Blu I have changed my assessment and would not shy away from owning one if it served my purpose. This is especially true if you can get a deal on a current(ish) used one. I believe the folks there are first class and will stand behind and support those hammers for some time to come. That said per I still think My IK 75 moves more metal than @ 110 Blu. I speculate this is due to anvil construction.

I just acquired a 5' x 8' acorn table. There are a few divots in the top where someone drilled too far or went nuts with a grinder. How would you go about repairing this? Thanks dw

Was thinking of using this freehand and not frame mounted like the zipmax. More for rivet heading, bob punches and things like that. Something along the lines of this size.

Thanks Bruce, kinda what I suspected with the control. Do you have any recommendations for a good midsize pneumatic hammer? What sort of BPM, stroke and CFM ranges make for good forging hammers? I also was thinking about putting a treadle supply to control the air.

Has any one use an electric breaker hammer like this to forge with? http://www.harborfreight.com/11-amp-120-volt-breaker-hammer-68150-8069.html I've seen some impressive forging with similar sized pneumatic hammers and was wondering how the electric one would work.