trinculo

I would love to see a video of this one in use to see how it works.

Beautiful knife. Can you tell us a bit more about the damascus billet.

Very cool Sam. Also wanted to say your hardy tooling look extremely well done in another recent thread. Keep it coming.

I had used a straight hardy until being exposed to the rounded hardy. The straight was one of Grants (4140 and Ht'd i believe) and the rounded was forged from 1045 and not Ht'd.Having both I can cut faster and more accurately with the rounded top. I find it better for flat as I can roll it around all the sides and mark or cut to center. Just the experience of a non professional smith with not near the experience of Brian or Timothy.

How did you forge those shoulders? Did you upset square stock? looks nice.

I have always heard to put some liver around the ground nests. It will attract a skunk which will subsequently dig out the nest and eat everything.

I made some similar cheeking dies for my 110 lb home made utility hammer. Brian also gifted me a cupping die that I welded tabs on so that I can slip it over the bottom die of my iron kiss 75 and remove it quickly to accommodate shocking the punch free if necessary. My punch is made from 5160 and I cool it after every couple hits as I would with a striker. Another tip Brian taught me was to slightly square the hammer stock prior to punching. It made a big difference for me. I would like to try and make some h13 punches. Did you do anything special when welding it to the mild handle?

Would love to see pictures of the dies and how the mount on your power hammer.

The Seller posted some video of the hammer.

I have seen and used this hammer. It uses an electronic cycle timer to control an electric air shuttle valve. It throttles the intake air and not the exhaust. Very unique setup that I have not seen before. It will be interesting to see what it fetches if it sells.

Not sure what "dbl." is. Sound pressure is commonly measured in dB SPL. If your spl meter is reading 80 db peaks at the the anvil or ph it's broken or not calibrated correctly.

what's the size of the tubing to start with? If 1" or > I'd think you would have a hard time with out some kind of v block or swedge on the bottom.

Hofi, Clifton Ralph, Brazeal, Turley.

Brazeal +1. Efficient and effective. He can teach as much as you can absorb.

A good timber framer friend of mine drives all his high dollar chisels with dogwood mallets that he turns. He says they last for years.

Tom Trozack, maker designer of the Bull and Phonenix hammers, recommend putting a tractor supply rubber mat under my air hammer. He also said that there was a company that makes specially formulated mats to go under industrial forging hammers and they they tunned the rubber rebound rate to the frequency of the hammers blows and this actually improved the energy delivered in those hammers. I can't remember the name of the company who makes them. In my experience, a rubber stall mat under my IronKiss 75 lowered noise and stopped it from walking where as on a 4' x4' x 5/8" piece of ply it would move. It's stationary under heavy forging and not bolted down. I can't tell in loss or gain in forging efficiency. My other 110 homemade air hammer is siliconed down and is louder. I think I may have gone overboard on the silicone and am not looking forward to the day I need to move this hammer. Any ideas on how to unstick a 1 ton hammer that's been glued down are appreciated. I was thinking piano wire and pry bars.

I've seen an electrically switched 300lb air hammer. There is an interval timer controlling the switch. It was throttled on the input side of the air. It worked pretty well.

Brian, What degree from vertical are the legs? Also is this more or less the same as you like for an anvil tripod? I remember that you like a steeper angle than the 22 degree commonly used for anvil stands.

I have a set of wedges that John Larson made as described above and have a different set that are mild and not treated. I have to redress the mild ones frequently. They tend to get a bow in them and gall easier. The 4140 HT dies just work and I have not had to redress them at all the usage being the same. I use an 8 pound brass sledge to set and remove them.

NIce build. The design keeps evolving.

Looks great John. I noticed the 200 doesn't seem to have the tup up at idle. Is the control different on this than on your smaller hammers? Congrats, is this now going to become a standard model?

Watching Brian forge was a such a huge revelation, I'm still learning things months after hammering with him that he taught me. I am just now realizing how much information he shared. I am looking forward to forging with Brian Again.

Very nice work Sam. I always look forward to your posts of new wares. Keep up the good stuff. dw

this is very nice. simple, classy and well executed.

So . . .the outer barrel is for noise damping? Are there bearings mounted inside of the outer container? I've seen them lined with conveyor belt for damping, but it still sounded like a battalion of the ghosts of christmas past having a mardi gras parade on sherman tanks. What media do people commonly use? The only one I've seen had bits of steel and small drops, cut up rebar, etc in it. The finish was great and beats the hell out of a wire wheel, but the noise was insane. I'd love to build one, but noise damping has to be shorted for my location first. What do people use for quieting their tumblers?