RoosterretsooR

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About RoosterretsooR

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    Wisc.

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  1. We will share what ever we find out about the "Buster" axe...just waiting on some replies to emails and such. Thanks, Rooster
  2. Hello Friends, I am searching for either an original "buster" splitting axe made by Tom Clark of Potosi. MO or the dimensions, profile and cross-section of the head. Tom passed away back in 2009, and a number of us are looking for his original "Buster" splitting axe so that it can be studied and possibly replicated. Thanks, Rooster
  3. The author of that "article/ opinion page", was obviously trying to draw attention to his "superior" thought process...and he was successful, since we are still talking about it...right? :D Rooster
  4. Here's mine..used a push lawnmower deck...no clay needed. http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/31124-brake-drum-forgerat-rod-style/?fb_action_ids=10200853245522862&fb_action_types=og.likes&fb_source=aggregation&fb_aggregation_id=246965925417366 Rooster
  5. From John's new website. It gives some information regarding his new direction. John Neeman leaving Neemantools "Lately I hear many people asking, whether I still perform in project Neemantools, considering I now run my new company – AUTINE. The answer is: NO, at present blades made by me, John Neeman, are only available under AUTINE brand. Decision to leave a project, establishing which took a lot of work both from me and my colleague, carpenter Jacob, wasn’t easy. Nonetheless, as was said by a Latvian poet, what changes will last, and I am not an exception. AUTINE is the next phase of my professional activity and fulfillment of my long cherished dream about a family company. When launching this project our team combined both previous experience and new ideas about design, selection of materials and processing technologies. Just like before, tools made by me will remain one hundred percent hand-made. However, by creating AUTINE I want to offer something more – greater options of choice, wider exposure of tools, faster supplying terms and, most important, higher standards of quality. AUTINE is a place I come from and which history I am proud of. That’s why, providing my tools with lifetime warranty, I choose to sign them with name of AUTINE, thereby representing a part of history of me and my homeland. I would like to express my gratitude to all those, who have approved blades made by me. Without you I could not fulfill my dream – to live a life of creativity and challenges. Also I would like to wish luck to my old companion, carpenter Jacob, for beautiful time we had together in our old project. Sincerely, John Neeman"
  6. My friend John Neeman, the bladesmith, has started new business called AUTINE. It is separate and is not associated with his old project of Neeman Tools. Check out his video: http://vimeo.com/55301381
  7. Are you looking to have us stop you? Otherwise re-make it...Practice, Practice, Practice....
  8. I have to be honest...I searched and searched on multiple forums, Youtube, google images, and found most, but not all of these ideas as parts of different forges...I took what I wanted and could produce, and threw it together to come up with what I have done so far...When it comes to designing something, I try to "build a better mouse-trap", instead of trying to "re-invent the wheel"!!! Thanks for the comments!!! Rooster
  9. I have a friend named Ted who is a fellow carpenter...but he is also a very good smith. He has made custom hold-down clamps for my timber-framed sawhorses, but more importantly...he has re-kindled my interest in "pounding hot iron". so, here's my forge build. I started out with a junk push lawnmower and stripped off the blade and motor, saved the deck and the handle pieces. I went down to the local auto mechanic and bought a used brake drums off of a truck for $2. I bought 2" black pipe fitting for the airway and ash dump. I flipped the mower deck upside-down and cut a larger opening so that the lip of the brake drum would keep it suspended without falling through. I mounted the mower deck to an old portable table saw stand, and attached a pair of feed bin wheels using steel nail-stakes (for setting concrete forms) as axles. I bought a 8" cast steel floor drain and added three bolts (to help keep it slightly elevated to allow more air) and used it in the bottom of the drum to allow the air to feed the fire without the charcoal falling down the pipe. I am currently using a two speed hairdryer for my air source, but I might opt for an antique hand crank blower...if I can find one cheap. I did notch the drum on opposite sides so that I can lay flat stock or rod across the fire, and I have a tractor exhaust cap (not pictured) on the lower pipe to control the air flow and ash dump. Ted also recommended that I use fire brick to try and trap the heat and force it towards the center of the "fire-pit" to help conserve fuel and have better heats. The bricks are movable and really help. Now I just have to figure out how to mount my post-vise to the side of it, and make some type of bracket to hang my tongs from. Here is used the upper handle for an adjustable long rest. And these are two of the first projects...I learned that the best way to develop skills is to make tools for the forge, which then you can use to make more tools for the forge,...and so on, and so on... Fire tender on the left and tongs on the right. Rooster
  10. Welcome, I'm new also. I like the fire pot you built...keep up the good work. Your english is pretty good... But the expression is "Another one got bit by the bug." Or, "Going to bite the bullet." :) Ég vona að þú njótir byggja Forge eins mikið og ég hef ... Eigið góðan dag. Rooster
  11. I used a cast iron strainer from a floor drain...plumbing dept. in big box home improvement store. Rooster