Rashelle

I tried nail polish on some copper rings I made, even though I had doubts about it. It was recommended. It did not last the first day, getting the chips out of the detail work was a (insert grumbling and growling). Lacquer and paints, clear coat etc will all most likely work the same. I use Rennaissance wax now. Though I have used car polish type waxes. There are other jewelry waxes out there that would work also. I think the car wax I used was nu-cote or something similar.

I agree with the above. I needed to use some of my 1" bottom tools in a hardy about the size of yours. So I grabbed a piece of scrap wood, made a wedge, tapped it in the bottom up the hole along side the hardy wedging it in when needed. Made sure it was long enough to hook out. Temporary measure for a quick solution. You don't need 3" diameter stock for a 1 3/8" hole. Just something slightly larger then the hole. Or near size and upset to slightly larger. Bolsters and shim stock would work too. You could make an inverter U out of flat stock with lips, stick the U into the hole lips up catching the sides, place your tooling into the U. Effectively making a hardy shank sleeve.

It could be copper brazed.

If you're interested in the history of Fort Vancouver pm me when you may be going through the PNW, if you'll be in the area. Might have something or other going on with the NWBA or other events also.

So the box has a larger diameter then the eye hole? Which would indicate the box/thread assembly is from a different vise then the jaws. Ouch. You could probly jury rig a different screw assembly to open and close the vise. It looks like the screw box is a 19th. century solid design. (I'm looking at James Melchor and Peter Ross's restoration of leg vises book.) As is you have parts to fix a couple of vises, a potential learning experience for later if you want to fabricate a screw box sized to fit), or a see what can be done to jury rig something. You might measure your eye opening and the screw box, and keep the measurements remembered in case you find a vise needing repair or if you find parts that's fit yours.There is still a lot of potential there.

Ok let's try this again. My first reply disappeared. The box should slide into the hole below the jaw. Yours is extended out. It may be rusted, painted, or otherwise jammed from debris. Try unthreading the screw, Pull the box off, clean inside and outside of the box and the hole it fits in. Clean interior box threads and the screw threads. Grease the screw threading. Reassemble. The box should slide right into the hole. If not it shoud be evident upon a close look why not. If the threads are in good condition, cleaned, and lubed. They should tighten back up. On reassembly it might take some juggling to get the box and screw threads lined up. You can try fitting them together after cleanup prior to reassembly to ensure everything is in working order. Looks like a great find for $40.00

It should slide in further. Is it rusted or otherwise stuck in place? From that picture you should have the full range. You might try cleaning it out and greasing it so it slides back in.

I suggested to a friend of mine that he turn his pocketed apron around the other way. He did and now no longer has problems with debris filling his pockets. Wish I'd of thought of that when I made mine. (I repurposed an old pair of leather pants.) Soft and light weight. Rather comfy in fact. Though in an industrial setting I'd probly want thicker leather.

Ok I'm awake. That'd be a tiny forge weld for a key fob. Still doable though. A probably more viable option would be copper braze the two shapes together. Or rivet then braze if you don't trust either method alone. At pocket sized splitting larger stock via a hacksaw, then drawing out the legs to their appropriate sizes might be another option.

I would try pretty much the same as Yves. The U on it's side and an inverted V shape forge welded together. I wouldn't bother with a rivet or tenon though. Second option would be tenon the inverted V into the U. Don't bend the U till after the tenon.Tenon it then bend. Though Unless starting with larger stock for the V you'll probly have to forge weld. You could forge the V shape down from larger stock leaving a stub for the tenon. If you wanted to avoid a forge weld. Third would be cut from parent bar only rather then cutting same size parts cut pieces to the MASS needed. Oops got to go work. Good luck.

Thank you Paul. I got lost looking at some old catalogs I found for woodworkers. Heehee Now I'm getting myself lost looking at pictures on the link you put. Also thank you Rockstar for the video. It looks to me also as a rounding hammer on the round face and the square face is flatter. Funny timing as people have approached me lately about helping them make similar hammers, knowing I did something similar with the competition hammer I made not long ago.

Paul is there a link or name to the source of the hammer catalog page you could put up? I enjoy making hammer and such and volunteer at a historic site. Thus am interested in older tooling and sources of information on them. Thank you for posting that. I'm now going to go do old German hammer catalog web search heehee. Rashelle

Oh that is neat. There is a youth volunteer at Fort Vancouver that needs practice at punching and could use it on riveting also. Wish I could think up an excuse to have him make something like that. Or similar. That would make a great project for someone to work on those skills. Trammel hooks are what I've got him on now.

A Thingimasquid? Ok I just like that name. That is what I thought upon first seeing it.

A local stove, fire heating maintenance type place. May have it or can get it in for you. I can't seem to think of the business type names at the moment. Wayne Coe as above mentioned was real helpful when I ordered plistic from him some time ago. Not sure of the spelling but similar to ITC. I built a small propane forge then promptly started using coal. Go figure.

Stateside they are called duplex nails. They do make neat rivets and swords, but then I normally just make my own rivets out of the appropriate size stock as needed anyways. I used to keep a handful in my bag for demos. Due to the inevitable can you have you will you make me a sword questions. Silly me now has several mini swords sitting on the TV stand, heehee.

Don't quench them. Watch your temperature. There is a more narrow working range working S-7 then some of the simpler steels. I myself when first making hand tools started with coil springs, then went to known 5160, then S-7. Coil springs for myself when beginning was a cheap way to have plenty of steel to learn what I liked best doing my own tools. It also gave me room to explore and room for error, as I was not out much other then time. And time is simply put experience so good or bad it was good as long as I learned. You get S-7 too hot and it will cottage cheese itself all over when you hit it. Too cold and you are hitting a hardened steel. I take it you are already familiar with making hand tools? If not it might be easier on you to learn with a different steel. But it's all good, do what you will. It does make nice tools.

Heehee, Thomas that is when I quench the tong reins I'm holding. I put them in the appropriate hand for to cool them off. No one realizes I'm cooling my hand off more then the tongs (radiant heat ya know). I usually also get a drink of water while I'm at it, (gotta stay hydrated of course). That has taught me that if I'm using flux at all when welding to use as little as needed no more as it will head straight for my hand if given a chance. Usually the hammer hand in between the thumb and fore-finger against the hammer.

Depending on length desired. You could try drops from an auto spring place. Or find out from them where they get their stock locally.

.... You think 1 800 anvil support is a phone number. .... You actually have 1 800 anvilsu on speed dial. .... You think rust is a color .... You think soot is a color .... You have a post vise in the front room (I resemble this one) .... You have an anvil or two in the front room (no comment) .... You think coal smoke is a flavor

............ If the solution to your problems really is ....... a bigger hammer. ............ A hot date involves......... a forge fire. (alternately a hammer or tongs or anvil, etc.) ............ A threesome means ....... hammer, anvil, and forge.

I don't have picks Dave but I can try to explain. Picture taking square tubing, heat up (or do it cold) squish two opposing corners in towards each other, creating a diamond. Two of the corners are now closer to each other and the other two are further apart. You might want to cut 1/2"-1" sections from the tubing, just slice off the pieces with a hacksaw or band saw. The diamond profile pieces can then be slipped over the tong reins with the longer distance corners slipped over. Then turn the diamond on it's axis so the short distance corners are over the reins, thus tightening them. <> squashed tube side profile. slip over reins with reins in a left to right configuration, then turn diamond 90 degrees. Hope I didn't confuse the issue some more.

Just the hot cut with the tapered shank. There are a lot of ways to go about making stuff. Getting with some of the groups near you as mentioned is a great way to start learning.

You can make a tong held hammer eye punch rather then a handled or wrapped one, by hand. Same for the drift. As far as the wife with the bad back goes see if she'lll direct and you strike instead. You be your own striker and direct her in directing you. Yes 1 1/4"- 1 1/2" would be easier to make the fullers out of. You can check with auto spring places for their drops for those sizes of stock at scrap or better prices if that matters to you. A hardy you just need stock slightly larger then the hardy hole to start with so you can either reduce larger stock ( taper like Brian does for the capability to fit multiple sized hardy holes) or upset to the size desired. Fullers in a pinch can just be the appropriate sized stock laid down on the anvil face and or held above the stock or both depending on desires. That you can also bend over to fit to either hardy or pritchel hole if desired also.

You could try staking the whole thing down to the ground. The stakes can be forged then used to stake everything down. Once it's secured to the ground then it's a little more stable. Use this as it is until you get something more along the lines of what you're looking for.