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I Forge Iron


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    Outdoors, self defense, blacksmithing, weaponsmithing, knives, fishing, dogs, etc.

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  1. 655 is a forgeable bronze. It is a silicon bronze, no zinc or lead. Naval bronze is supposedly also forgeable but I don't use it due to it had either zinc or lead I don't remember. 655 is what I use for axes and other such. I think there is a picture of one of my wolf head poll bronze axes on here somewhere. Just don't overheat it.
  2. Yup. I apparently am a slow learner Thomas. Heehee. Figure I'll get there sooner or later. Just got to keep at it till I start getting it right consistently, then keep at it some more. How you get from one place to another.......... One step at a time, even if they are stumbly steps down hill into a ditch. When you re a beginner at something....... you are a beginner. I am a beginner at learning to use a press. My next two axes are screwed up axes. But I finish them and learn along the wy. My redeeming feature is relearning to use a belt sander........... Those things can absolve one of a lot of sins, lol.
  3. Thank you Das and GoatLady. I've got a long way to go Das. I have a friend who had got a 16 ton press and I used it and it was good. But I felt I was pushing it making hammers. So when I bought one for my ownself I got a 25 ton. That 9 ton difference made it harder for me to learn control. So I frequently have just a tiny too muchness in what I'm doing. And that tiny little bit makes it really hard to recover. Wish there was a throttle control so I could throttle down. As is I'll just have to keep at it till i learn sufficient control.
  4. Thanks Das I like it too. I'm still working out how to use the press to do what I need. Hey Wilco, yup that would of been about 2 months before the surgery. It's great to be seeing some of my former students doing stuff. I'm relearning to use my right. Tomorrow would be the one year anniversary of the surgery.
  5. Thank you Blackcloud. Here is a picture of the carving axe I did next:
  6. Steve I've been using 4140 and 1045 for hot and cold chisels since I started. I believe in one of Mark Aspery's workshops he said he was using sucker rod that was along the lines of 4130 for the hand tools. I could be wrong it's been a few years. Either way 4143 is slightly .03% more carbon then 4140 and I've been using that successfully, it should be fine. I was on a s-7 kick for hand tools for awhile, till I looked at my hammer faces and was promptly saddened then thought of all the effort it was making the tools. Then I realized awwwwwwwwww hammer softer then anvil, tool softer then hammer. (The hammers I been making are also 4140 or 1045 except hardened.)
  7. making handles for brushes is good practice for making door and cabinet handles.
  8. Punches, drifts, small hammers, chisels, etc.
  9. The surgeon took care of the bone spurs and bursa while he was at it, placed anchors and staples. Potentially other then a unrelated small labral tear in there I might be better off. The PT's were glad when I came in as there was always progress. I really wanted my arm back......... and still do...... and m still working on it. I'm gonna get the camp axes dialed in then start working on some carving axes. Progress doesn't have to be leaps and bounds. Small steps forward add up. That goes for PT as well as blacksmithing and much else in life.
  10. Thank you Frosty. I'm able to use it a bit. Getting a chunk of range of motion back........ I was able to actually put my hand behind my back far enough to grab it with the left and pull it over the other day. Getting there working on it. It's only been a year since the surgery. Not medically stationary yet. The reason for me breaking down and buying that press. Pushing, but not too hard, at getting strength back. Am only at 25 incline pushups at a time now. When I'm doing sets of 100 or more pushups again I will consider myself almost back to before the injury. I'm only in my fifties, I think I can get at least that much back. Found out there was a biceps tear to go with all the shoulder tendons being torn. Slowly getting back, will see where I land. At least now I can spend some time hammering again with the right arm. When I was seeing the physical therapists all the time I told them my goal was not to just get to where I was but to get better then I was.
  11. Thank you. Here is the finished axe.
  12. Here it is handled. Have to clean up the top after the glue dries. I glue in my wood wedges, then drive a metal one in.
  13. It's been awhile since I've been in and posted anything, other then an infrequent reply. So thought I'd show what I did yesterday. I'm recovering from shoulder surgery for the last year no haven't been doing much. Here goes:
  14. I neither wrap nor preweld the ends of cable. What I do is very carefully trap (as if I was using a swage) the ends of the cable in a step of the anvil (if the anvil has one), or the corner where it drops off on my nimba, or the slight drop on a kanca. Some way to keep the end from splaying apart. I have made a step tool for my nimba by taking 1" square stock setting it down in the hardy hole, bending it over. I then radiused a bunch of different edges and fullers into the top part. I use it for fullering, as a hold fast, as a step, and for trapping material against it. So if you don't have a step in your anvil but do have a hardy that'll help. Make sure to set the initial weld carefully, then once you've got it you can start using more force.
  15. A question that might be pertinate. What was the source of the high carbon insert?
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