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Found 20 results

  1. Plan Fat50 Ammo Can : 11-3/4" x 6-3/4" x 8-1/4" inside dimensions. 8# 2300 degree Kaowool Ceramic fiber. 1 inch on the sides. 1 inch fire brick and 1 inch Kaowool for the shelf 2 inch Kaowool on the top. Gives me a chamber size 265 cubic inches My plan is one single 3/4 inch burner. I don't intend on welding with this forge. Is applying anything other then rigidizer necessary for my intended purpose? Any suggestions you might have would be appreciated.
  2. Found this on YouTube what do you guys think? From what I understand you get pipe and fill it with oil then heat it with a torch.
  3. Hi, I’m brand new to blacksmithing. Here’s my first attempt at a hammer. Prior to making this hammer I only had about 3 hours at the anvil to be honest, this was a very challenging, albeit great learning experience. I’m really happy with how the peen came out, but the face bows outward a little on the right side and I’m not happy it’s not more square. I’m wanting to take a second whack (pun intented) at it but had a quick question first. I can only get 3 hours at a time in the gorge and with hand punching this I don’t believe I can finish in a single session. Would I be okay to normalize and quench during one week and then grind/heat treat a week or two later? Just want to make sure that 1045 can be heat treated that far after quenching, I’ve read some steels only allow for a short window between these. I did a google search with “iforgeiron” in it but haven’t found an answer, sorry if I’ve missed the thread.
  4. *I realize I accidently posted in the blacksmithing forum instead of the bladesmithing forum...however I am finding it difficult to put this in the appropriate area, my apologies!* So I'm working on my second knife project (posted my first one earlier), and I had some questions with regards to the heat treat (which I am planning to do tomorrow). The piece itself is a dagger I am working on out of 1095 steel. I have the profile and grinding done for it, and am getting ready to heat treat, but a bit nervous about the quench. I am planning on using clay along on the spine of the dagger on both sides, but wasn't certain if there was a certain time to apply the clay, or if you just put it on before you begin heating the blade for the quench? I was thinking this would help keep the spine from getting overly hard and brittle, which would give the dagger more strength and flexibility of movement when thrusting into hard objects (not that this is the intention, just trying to learn and practice things for now.) I also was thinking this might help prevent cracks/breaking of my blade for the quench. The reason for this is because I am going to attempt to quench the blade in water, not oil... I am going to use some hot railroad spikes to heat the water up, which I am hoping will decrease the chance of any serious damage to the blade. My question there is, when I got to quench the dagger, do I plunge it in tip first with the edges perpendicular to the ground, or the flat of the blade? Are there any hints, tricks, or tips that could help me from ruining this piece? (I mean if I did, I would treat it as a lesson learned...but I'd like to avoid a catastrophic damage if possible). Also, any advice on fixes if the blade develops a warp or a crack during the quench? Thank you all for reading this....hope I made sense above haha.
  5. I'm trying to heat treat 3 knives out of 1095 and I'm having issues with it. I have a propane forge with 2 burners. I have no issues getting the steel up to temp. I do not have anything to monitor the exact temperature so I've just been going to non magnetic and then quenching in canola oil, heated to 135 degrees. When I take the knife out, I test it by scraping it with a file and the file always digs in. I have looked up videos, looked on message boards and I am doing exactly the same thing as everyone else (and in many cases the exact same setup) and the steel is not getting any harder. Does anyone know what I might be doing wrong? I'm so close to throwing in the towel and sending it off to get heat treated. Thanks for your help.
  6. Hi all, Thanks for all the great posts am learning a lot. I have a question if you don't mind. Just went to the local junk yard (am in India) and the guys sold me a what they say to be a JCB axle but it looks a bit different. Definitely hard stuff, but it is rounded on one end (4 inch diameter) and 2 inches on the other end. Diameter is 4 inches if I cut the either end off. It is about just under two feet long with an indentation (section cut out 7inch by4inch) that could be used as an anvil but on edge it really does have an amazing rebound and ring. On flat well it is flat. But my question is should I cut into it. What about the heat treat if any? At what point can it be damaged. Would be great to know. All the best, David.
  7. I've looked for hours around the web, and I know this was a stupid error on my part (wrong kind of heat treat on mystery spring steel, too lazy/hurried to test on a few scraps). The crack actually took place about 8 months ago, and I'm considering revisiting the blade. I don't want to weld or braze the crack shut (or at least not until I ensure that it won't propagate) but I had an idea. For glass, you can sometimes stop a crack by drilling a hole at the termination. I was thinking by using a large enough bit, I might catch even the microscopic end of the crack, and then either cut/grind/weld/fill/heat treat it and have a mostly serviceable blade, and if that fails, at least I still have a nice looking shelf knife. Unfortunately, I already made a sheath for it (before heat treat) but I guess I can re-make a similar enough blade to fit if all else fails. has anyone else used this method on a blade? what degree of success if any? Thanks!
  8. Hello everyone... I have access to these pump bearings. I tried looking into the type of bearing steel it is and whether its case hardened or not. I had bearing material that wouldn't harden before, not even in water. I came to the conclusion that particular bearing may be case hardened. I know there's better steels out there, but I like to understand what I have. The make of this current bearing is from: SKF 7315 EXPLORER. I cut the race off, the balls are about 1" in diameter. I then cut a piece off the race, hammered to about 1/8" thick. I quenched in water and it broke in half pretty easy. I am curious about the grain structure...its very coarse. To those with experience, does it have significance? If I wanted to make a blade with the race, would it be usable? Thanks for any input! I think I may have found my answer. The grain structure very much looks like the one pictured in this link: http://reidonline.org/bladesmithing/intro/normalizing.htm I'll continue to experiment and have fun! If there's additional input...feel free. Thanks
  9. I have built a brake drum coal forge and have started trying to work a piece of steel from an old barbell into a spoon chisel for wood carving. I know it's probably too complicated a job for a beginner, but I'm a "dive right in" kind of guy. The problem I have is that the steel doesn't seem to stay very hot and workable for very long. When I pull the steel out of the coal it is red hot, but not a glowing bright white or yellow that I seem to see when people are working mild steel, and it cools pretty rapidly making my work that much harder. Is there anyway I could tell if I was heating it too little or why it won't stay workably hot for very long? Any feedback or help is greatly appreciated! I'm eager to get into this and make some cool stuff!
  10. I've made a few knives and lots of flint and steel strikers. Some of the knives are 1084 and some are 1095. The strikers were made from worn out files. The blade are about 6 inches long not counting the tang. Some hidden tang, some full tang. The blade height is usually about one inch. I would like to try making a knife with the spine hard enough to throw sparks when struck with a piece of flint. Does anyone have a suggestion how to heat treat a blade so the edge and spine are hard and leave some softer steel near the middle to reduce the overall brittleness?
  11. I posted a message (here on I Forge Iron) asking for some insight when I was given some "to be discarded" wood planer blades. The responses were very helpful and encouraging. Since I cannot heat treat the metal (that seems to have been) used to make these blades, I have started making some quick little project knives to help me learn more about knife making and working with hardened steel. So far I have made two little knife like objects that are both even useful. The planer Blades are approximately 12.5 inches x 0.75 inches x 0.06 inches. The blades a laminated M2 Steel. As I understand so far, M2 steel is more hard than it is tough so I will avoid using it for applications requiring impact resistance -- or where failure is likely to lead to injury or death.
  12. I threw my d bit in fire until red then threw in shallow pan of motor oil which combusted then left sit until cool. Now looks black wit a reddish color wondering if annealed properly and if heat treating is more complicated than single bit axe
  13. A friend of mine found an old beet knife in the rubble of his garage when his family tore it down. It was bent pretty good and so he asked me to straighten it for him. I took out the bend with a torch and a hammer. I was trying to keep the temper but I failed when I let the heat run through the blade. I hardened it today and then I tempered it at 200 F for about 20 minutes. Then I went to sharpen it and that is where I ran into my problems. I barely started putting the edge on when a a sizable piece came off as I ran the stone over the blade( I do all my sharpening by hand). The only thing I can think of is I didn't temper the knife long enough or at a high enough temperature to draw back the hardness in the blade. The knife is slightly less than 1/8 inch, I thought if it soaked in the oven for 20 minutes it would be good to go. In my mind it didn't need long to temper. What do you guys think?
  14. Hello everyone! I was/am a long time lurker at anvilfire and a newer lurker here but I have a question and decided to join the board. Loads of good stuff here - thanks to everyone who has made this site such an awesome resource! I have all the bare minimum of required tools, including a gas forge, post vice, angle grinder, 100 lb london pattern anvil, even an oxy-acetylene kit but I dont have any hardy tools, fullers, flatters, awesome hand-made rounding hammers, etc. I did get a smithin magician kit to help myself make all the tools I plan to make. I don't plan on buying a full set of top and bottom fullers, a flatter, etc and so I am going to get to work on that. I guess my question is "What order do I start making these tools in?" Right now I have a bar of 3' x 2" round 4140 stock, a bar of 4' x 1" round W-1 and a small round bar of 5" x 2.5" 4140 I am saving for making a rounding hammer. I was thinking of trying to make a hardy fuller or cutoff hardy first, but I'm stuck as far as how to do that with what I have got. I feel like I kinda need a fuller to make progress with this 2" bar stock but I can't make one out of it without serious wasted effort (I dont think). Probably need a striker or a power hammer to make headway (closest I have to a striker is a wife with a bad back). And I guess I would need a hammer eye punch and hammer eye drift first if I want to make top tool/ bottom tool sets. As far as I can figure, my mistake was buying 2" round bar instead of 1.5" or 1.25" to make top/bottom tools. What are your thoughts? Thanks, Matthew Marting
  15. Hello my names Marty I'm a noob and trying to get into blacksmithing I have a couple nice hammers and a friend that works at a machine shop that made me an anvil he makes tooling dies for Timken but he made this anvil from special made tool steel it's called 3311 I can't find any information on it he told me it's similar to 4140 steel but all I want to know is if I should heat treat to harden it or just leave it be and use it how it is the anvil it's self is 5in tall 5.5in wide and 10in long and weighs a good 40-50 lbs if I were to heat treat it would be in a coal forge and cascading water but I need advice and tips please help
  16. Induction heat treating (wrap flexible litz wire around work piece, affix thermocouple, wrap with insulation).

    © ReactorForge

  17. To make a spring similar to the ones in these locks, assuming forging from scrap spring material... Would you harden and temper? To what color? Any recommendations on steel material? Thanks in advance.
  18. First time posting here. This is a great site and good resource. I had some questions about differential tempering. I see alot of people on this site talking about heating their steel in an oven at certain temps (dependant on what kind of steel it is) in order to temper them. Twice at 2 hours at a time at whatever temp is appropriate for their steel, seems to be standard. This should make the entire blade one temp. and thus not be differential tempered. At home Ive been tempering with a butane torch, running the colors from the spine to the edge. I'll do this twice, generally, and so far the results have been good. My edge retention is passable, I've been able to chop through a 2x4 and still shave some hairs off my arm, but I haven't been able to bend a knife more than about 30 degrees in my post vice, without it snapping. I try to get the edge to be medium/dark straw, with the spine as blue as I can. All this is with 1095 i've been getting from Jantz. How can I do this better? When other people use the oven temper method, is there another step I am missing that they will do in order to achieve a differential temper? Is a differential temper really all that important or am I waisting my time? Thanks in advance.
  19. Hey all, It's been a little while. Been reading alot of the forum and books from the early 1900s. I'm considering making a 2 3/*" wrench made heavy enough to undo nuts on a large rock crusher at a quarry. The only source available is asking 200$ or more for it and I'm reasonably certain that I could make it for about half that and make it stronger, although heavier. The last wrench was a combo wrench and had a tooth on the open end broken off. I'm surprised that the box end didn't go first as thin as it was. The ring on the back will be made heavier and smoother (better for pulling), and the head on the open end heavier, and after I ask a few mor questions I may just make it a heavy box end if it will still serve it's purpose. My primary concerns are the type of steel to be used, and proper heat treating. Given it's (ab)use it will be under considerable stress hence why I'm forging it solid, keeping the metal as thick as possible and using fairly thick stock. I've been reading and it seems that alot of people use steel from old leaf springs such as 4130/4140/etc. I would prefer to use fresh steel as i would be more certain that it would not have any surprises from past abuses, and I think I'd have trouble finding 3/4" leaf springs anyway. Would 4130/4140 still be a good steel for a wrench of this size? I also imagine that the entire final product would need a fairly uniform springy temper to prevent everything from bending out of shape under these stresses. What would be a good method of arriving at this temper? A temp stick and a torch or Brittle harden and cook an hour at 700F or 800F (I can't think of anyone with a furnace), or just oil quench for a few seconds and draw temper from the inside? How would this best be done with a piece of steel this size?
  20. This is actually my first forge project I've ever done. It is a hatchet made from a 5160 Leaf Spring. With my current tools, I couldn't really obtain a very smooth forge finish, so please excuse its roughness. I also understand that because the blade is not directly center with the eye, that there will be balance issues. Since I have such little experience, I did not want to attempt a forge weld. Feel free to critique. I am very close to being ready to heat treat it, but I have some questions. First, I'll list my currently available quenchants. I have water, brine solution, dish soap solution, 2-stroke motor oil, and chainsaw bar lubricant. My current understanding is to austenitize the steel by heating it to its critical temperature in the forge, which I have read is approximately 800 degrees C. The steel should be the color of unfanned wood coals. I have magnets for checking to make sure. Once having reached critical temp, I am to quench the edge in whatever quenchant I decide to use. This begs the following questions: For how long? Do I rapidly submerge the steel, or slowly? How far up past the edge should I quench for a hatchet? Next, I am to temper it. This is the part I am most unclear on. From what I understand, I can buy a toaster oven from the thrift store, wrap the blade in foil, and heat for however long I need to at whatever temp. I am sure that there are charts online that will aid me in knowing this. This also begs a question: What is the desired hardness for a hatchet or axe? 55 rc? I also wonder how important it is that I relieve the stress in it first. From what I can tell, this is done by annealing. I plan on doing this by lighting a wood fire in my 55 forge, and letting the blade sit in the coals until the fire burns itself out. How many times should I do this?
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