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CurlyGeorge

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Everything posted by CurlyGeorge

  1. CurlyGeorge
    Josh, I don't know if the hair dryer would work without burning up a lot of extra fuel. My fan sets back about 3" or so from the blower intake. It blows in enough, but doesn't have the force to really keep it burning hot and burn up fuel, while I stepped away. You can try it to see. If it keeps the fire hotter than you like, back it away a tad. :)
  2. CurlyGeorge
    Hey Josh. To keep my forge getting air, when I'm not cranking the blower, I just set a small fan up to blow, on low speed, into the intake of my blower. Here's a picture of my set up. Look toward the left center area. Hope this helps. http://www.iforgeiro.../27937-my-shop/ By the way, my shop ain't that clean, anymore. :D
  3. CurlyGeorge
    I can see where the large plate could help keep the jaws from torquing sideways and help keep everything in line. I like the way they are made. :)
  4. CurlyGeorge
    The Serial Number A5259 is from 1918, according to Anvils In America. :)
  5. CurlyGeorge
    Daniel, I have seen vices on this site that are secured to the "leg" of the stand. I have my vices setting on a base, so as to be able to better support (in my opinion) the downward force of hammering on something in the vice. I think that if you secure it back, and support it under the foot, that you should be OK. I wouldn't let the leg stay unsupported from below, as that sorta defeats the purpose of the leg. Hope this helps. :)
  6. CurlyGeorge
    Try to post the picture, again. It didn't take. :)
  7. CurlyGeorge
    That's really cool. I love the way the driftwood sets off the vine and flowers. Thanks for sharing. :)
  8. CurlyGeorge
    Looks like a sturdy setup. But I'll bet it's a real Bear to move around. :)
  9. CurlyGeorge
    First, welcome to IFI. The forge looks like it will work just fine, to start. I think that the Adobe that you lined it with will help insulate the galvanize from the heat. Just be careful. As Mark said, galvanize is some BAD STUFF when burned. I look forward to seeing some of your work that you do with this forge. Post lots of pics. We like pics. :)
  10. CurlyGeorge
    Wyatt, in my shop, my 250# Trenton sets on a stand made from 2X12s. It has a 1/2" plywood bottom on it and I filled it with sand. It makes a very stable stand, quiets the ring and is portable, if need be. I secured the anvil by cutting a piece of 2x to each side at the top of the stand, cut to fit the radius on the side of the anvil. Here's a couple of pics. Hope this helps.
  11. CurlyGeorge
    Tim, here's the one that I have.
  12. CurlyGeorge
    Hey Tim. I have one very similar to that. I'll post a picture of it tomorrow. I love mine. It's balanced very well. About a pound and a half. :)
  13. CurlyGeorge
    Maybe it's just my old eyes not working right. But to the right of the 4 almost looks like a partial 0. Does anyone else see that, in this photo?
  14. CurlyGeorge
    "Unfortunately, I'm unable to reveal the final application." That don't sound good. :ph34r:
  15. CurlyGeorge
    Have you got a metal fab shop or welding shop near you? Stop by and ask if you can check out there scrap bin and look for some 3/8" or 1/2" round or square stock that were drop off pieces that they scrapped out. That will give you some more material to play with and learn how it heats and works, without spending a lot of cash. The springs should work well for some chisels and punches. Keep on scroungin' !! :)
  16. CurlyGeorge
    According to AIA, 1901. :)
  17. CurlyGeorge
    I agree. Don't stop now. Keep trying, while the lessons are fresh in your memory. You will be able to get a set completed. I am by no means the best tong maker around. But the ones that I have made from scratch, are very serviceable. The failures went to the scrap yard. Just don't give up. Practice is where the learning curve begins. Good luck, and, yes, post pictures of your progress and failures. Someone else may learn from that. :)
  18. CurlyGeorge
    Nice looking anvil. The price was right, too. That's Only $1.66 a pound. Good deal, I'd say. :)
  19. CurlyGeorge
    I'm in East Central ILL and mot anvils around here seen to be around $2/lb. to $3/lb, for a really good one. I've been very luck and found my anvils for considerably less than that. But that's about the average, around my area. :)
  20. CurlyGeorge
    Yep. I went back and looked. You're correct. The A prefix for that # says 1920. Sorry 'bout that. :)
  21. CurlyGeorge
    On page # 303 of Anvils In America, it lists Serial #s 16,001-23,000 as being made in 1895. You said that your # is 22,749. :)
  22. CurlyGeorge
    Hey Steve. According to Anvils In America, your anvil was made in 1895. :)
  23. CurlyGeorge
    Welcome to IFI. Browse away. There is a large amount of info on this site and a lot of good people to learn from. Good luck getting set up and don't be afraid to ask questions if you have them. :)
  24. CurlyGeorge
    The Trenton that you have has the emblem inside of a triangle, actually. The 100 stands for 100 pounds. The serial # 100008 says that your anvil was born in 1911, according to Anvils In America. Nice anvils. I have two Trentons. A 150# and a 250#. I love them. Welcome to IFI and to blacksmithing. :)
  25. CurlyGeorge
    Type in Corkscrews in the search bar at the top of the General Discussion page. It will bring up several threads on the subject. :)
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