marcusb

Looks like you should have plenty of structure under it. When I hear Maine I think feet of snow!..... A state I have always wanted to visit, it sure sounds lovely up there. I will mention shingles and flat don't do well together. If I recall correctly they like to see a 4/12 pitch or more for them.

Whats the plan for the roof?

What is the function of this valve? My big hammer uses an automotive valve and spring for a one way valve. Its part of the air cushion system.

First wall up.

There ya go. Always nice to add on instead of scratch build! More time forging and less time playing carpenter! If you expect much load I would set a couple jack studs in there.

How did you attach the beams to the existing structure?

Whats the BPM going to be?

My blacker stand was #275 pounds I think, the anvil 500 ish. So it had a 775 pound anvil by design with a hollow base.

Most of the lighter duty hammers back in the day had hollow anvils. I commend you for giving it a whirl. Come to think of it the stand on my smaller hammer had a hollow base. It has since been filled with lead.

If you go up the post a-ways and thru bolt I would not see much compromise, But without a beam saw that slot would be a pain to cut clean.

So true, I set 2 laminated 18 foot 5x8's myself last fall, I am still feeling the effects of that!

I feel your pain! i have been using green ash for parts of my shop build, fresh off the mill and compared to kiln dried pine that stuff is like moving STEEL around!

I needed some siding so it was time to fell some timber and saw it up.

I"ve made some progress over the summer. Upper roof framed and the perlons on. Upper Roof Installed Lower Roof Installed

Are the posts green? That sounds heavy.

Slight increase in BPM? All I can think of is a Scottish Voice saying..."She will fly apart Captain!"

I would love some details on the frame fabrication. Looks like a cut and splice with the flanges bent to match then welded in?

My concern would be tripping on the angle. Been there done that.

Excellent job on the frame!

I have tried that route at a previous shop. I have found one low and one high to be a much better solution for me. Since my typing finger is warmed up, here is a bench vise you can beat on!

You guys have better balance than I do!

Drill an underside hole into a large block of wood with a ships auger and pound it into that.

So true. I fabricated a stand out of some scraps I had to mount my post vise in my dirt floored shop. I'm only 6 feet tall and find post vises to high for comfortable hammering. I set them in the ground. Once the concrete cured I cut the leg pipe off at the ground and its as solid as a tree stump.

The anvil on this hammer is a separate casting. It sets on crossed timbers 16" thick and is bolted to the concrete foundation below. The manual I have for Massey Clear-space does not show any bolts for the anvil so i"m guessing they grout them in to hold them in place. On this one you bolt the anvil down, set the hammer then use 4 large wood wedges around the anvil to align the hammer with the anvil then bolt the hammer down. Just different ways to skin the same cat!

Do you have a large air compressor handy to run the Massey? It would be a good idea to install a surge tank near the hammer to. Does it have a treadle? If not its a two man operation. Prepared to form and pour a 2 part foundation? Any plans in the future to forge larger stock and put that extra 75 pounds of ram to good use? The smaller self contained would need anchored to a slab, wired into a panel and your forging in no time. That would be my choice. I think the reason you are seeing larger utility hammers in use now days including Mr Dillions is cost. They require lots of work to setup, power and modifications of mechanism to operate well. Because of these obstacles they can be found much cheaper than a self-contained and some are willing to accept the hassles stated above to get into the forging game on a smaller budget.