knots

I have a couple of cuts that need to be made across a 1 3/8" X 9" steel bar. None of my regular saws will handle a cut of that size. So I am looking for an alternate, other than a hand held band saw, to make these cuts. My question is can using a metal cutting circular saw blade installed in a industrial duty electric hand saw be expected to make these cuts ? I have had in my a new Bosch CB748ST blade in my stable of tools for a while. I would be happy if I could complete two such cuts with this blade. On the other hand I would be disappointed to kill a $40 blade with negative results. Does any one have experience with using a hand held saw with a metal cutting blade for such a task ?

Ok, so what I understand that you have is the roller drum cut all around to the height that you need for a sand box anvil stand. However the 1" axle is still welded to both ends of the roller drum. To separate the two sections of the drum. I think my first attempt would be to grind the weld between the axle and one or the other drum end to release the axle from one end of the assembly. After grinding you may need to use a chisel to finish the cut. This done, slide the end off.

Check the tup stroke length spec. provided by the Anyang 25kg hammers. I have never forged on a 25 kg hammer but it seems to me that the short stroke limits the usefulness of add on die fixtures. My Kuhn KO (27kg) has about 8 1/2" stroke between the faces of standard flat dies which I think is about the mimimum if you plan to add on dies and still have enough storke left to forge at full power.

Probably something like brake/clutch lining. And yes back in the day brake lining materials contained asbestos. There however are modern substitutes which are asbestos free. Perhaps a good solvent cleaning would restore it's friction. Is there an linkage adjustment to compensate for wear ?

Bryan you can provide an organic looking stem by texturing your round bar hot with your hammer then twisting the textured bar . Experiment to get the effect you want including reversing the twist . That process will give your stem a much more realistic look.

Try looking here : https://www.ntxba.org/

The link below is an older IFI thread on this subject. Have a look. My quench tank, which is at the end of the thread . It is made from a 40 pound propane tank . The lid is fabricated from one domed end hinged to turn down and seal the tank more or less air tight.

As a stop gap measure you can jam a wad of chicken wire in the air tube . That might keep you forging until the real solution can be fabricated and installed.

Or a ships anvil, artfully remounted on it's original base. I have seen a number of anvils cut at the waist for use on sea going ships. I gather that they were welded to some part of the ships superstructure .

I think you need to keep them both around. I have a nice little treadle hammer that hits with a good wollop when the need arrises but It is not particularly good company. Also plan ahead for the time he is 6-2 and weighs 200 plus pounds and, in addition to the striking, you need to lift that new 350 pound south german anvil on to a stump.

I will second the idea of a borax solution soak. Although I have never used a borax solution for insect control I do use plain borax powder for ant control in and around my house. it has proven very effective. However, you still do not want your pets lapping it up.

I will second the idea of a borax solution soak. Although I have never used a borax solution for insect control I do use plain borax powder for ant control in and around my house. it has proven very effective. However, you still do not want your pets lapping it up.

" An end grain sealer would be a good move too " I used one of those small plastic concrete mixing trays to soak the ends of my last stump. That stump wasn't fresh cut and started to get fuzzy after a while. The soak treatment cured that problem. The big problem with soak treating is that, by the very nature of the solutions, they are hazardous/toxic. If you have children or animals/pets around the soak area needs to be secure. Whatever you use be sure to check out the MSDS data sheets and understand the hazards presented by the solution used.

Use a router set up as described in this IFI link to flaten and level the stump in preparation for your anvil.

Medieval Ironwork In Sweden - Lennart Karlsson - ISBN 91-7402-192-3 2 volumes. Last saw it for sale on Amazon. Pricey but IMO worth every penny. Deals mainly with Iron Clad Doors. Eastern Ironwork ? I would also like that info.

Another way, that is less messy, is to fabricate a couple of Z Clips. Lay down two layers of roofing felt and then bolt the anvil down tight over the felt, front and back, using your Z Clips. Trim the excess roofing felt. I find this method very effective and neat. When you need to remove the anvil there is no mess to clean up. Just be sure to fabricate the Z Clips a little short so that the anvil is really snugged down.

Thanks . I agree it does look like it is a fit for the whirlwind fire pot. The clinker breaker appears to be configured to swing through a cylindrical depression at the bottom of a slotted tuyere . The radius on the swing is 3". The bottom of the fire pot will need to have a corresponding cylindrical depression . That would be tricky to fabricate but do-able. However it sure would be nice to find a fire pot that was made to fit. Now that I know what I have I will be able to call around to see what is available. Many thanks for that ID. If all else fails I'll just use 4 or 5 inch wide 1" thick bar to fab a firepot . In that case I would likely convert the dump/air assembly to use a triangular clinker breaker that I already have.

I am looking for a fire pot to fit this ash dump/air tube. Not sure if it is a Champion or a Buffalo . Any confirmation of manufacturer and/or source of a fire pot that will bolt on will be appreciated. The mounting holes are 7" center to center, the diameter of the discharge opening is 5 1/2".

I think I will stick to hot dogs. However have a look at these search results. http://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=melting+metal+in+microwave+oven&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8

MB do you have access to a heavy welding platen ? If so you could place the crowned side down spaced above the platen with say a 1" square bar under the top of the crown and bolt the edges of the platen maybe using pipe sleeves welded to the opposing edges of the plate to provide the bending tension. Then with bolts snugged, heat the concave side of the bend to allow a slow and controlled straightening a bit at a time. Heat - measure - snug, heat - measure - snug. Or measure, heat , snug. My thought is that if you really want it flat the process needs a good flat, stable surface to work to, and the adjustment needs to be controlled incrementally.

Seems like flattening something that size in outside of an industrial setting would be difficult to achieve with accuracy. An alternate to flattening would to treat the machine base as a column base plate by using anchor bolts double nutted to level the machine and then grout solid under the the leveled plate. I have seen column base plates more than twice that size successfully grouted.

Here is a link to an interesting site. Unfortunately I found nothing on yours but it is still a good resource . http://www.wrenchingnews.com/ Here is another link to how I used a couple of Monkey wrenches to make adjustable bending forks, which have turned out to be super handy tools.

Torbo, How did you make the connection to the fill hole on the side of the jack ? The jacks that I can recall had a rubber plug that snapped in to fill hole to hold the oil. The tube that you installed from the resivoir must connect to some sort of fitting. What does that filling look like / consist of. Look like it would work to me.

I know that the following suggestion will likely bring howles of indignation but here goes : The lathe in question was almost certainly designed for a function for which it wil never be used again. That is the extreme length of the bed, 12 feet as I understand it, makes the lathe an unusual find. It actually is probably the reason that the lathe is a bargain because the space requirement . A heavy duty functional lathe is desireable however the length of the bed may be the only reason that it is not marketable. In most of the cases that I have observed, I believe that the bed could be removed and shortened to a more practical length. Other than the bed the feed screw would be the about the only other part that would need to be modified. If you pass on this lathe because of it's size it is really likely to be carelessly stored outside and eventually be junked. The point is - if the lathe is in decent functional condition and you do not need the extra length modifying the length so that it will fit into your shop may be the act that ultimately saves it from being scrapped. If it really is 12 feet long reducing the length to say 8 feet still retains an unusual capacity worthy of any small shop.

Congestion in your shop can have disasterous effects on productivity. The problem is that, in a well ordered shop, every tool, piece of material, and item of equipment must have its own dedicated space in order to be able to easily locate and use the item or tool without the necessity of constantly moving stuff out of the way. A huge amount of time can be expended looking for or moving out of place items every time you undertake a task. Plan ahead. The operative fact is that you cannot put something in it's place if it has no place. Is there space to build extra new storage to offset the lost space ? If the older larger lathe can be put into service without delay, could you sell the South Bend ? That alone would give about 1/3 of the required space. Last year I moved the contents of two shops into one. The resulting congestion is now largely improved but it would have been far better to have been avoided.