knots

Andrew what do the edges look like ? If the anvil is as soft as you say then I would expect the edges to be maybe a bit rolled but unchiped. Even with 50% rebound this could be a good serviceable anvil. The trick is just don't hit it with the hammer. Often on an old anvil like yours the off side edges are crisper than on the more used side ( the left hand vs right hand thing). As long as you have fairly a crisp edge on one side you should be able to adjust your work habits to make the anvil work for you. I would suggest that you clean it up and use it without attempting repairs which could cause more harm than good. If it fails to meet your needs resell it and move on to another one with the atributes that you desire. I expect that it will give you decent service, as is, if you give it a chance.

I have been thinking abut this and have an approach that I think I would take a look at / give a try. The solution might well be - To be able to picture what a completed piece would look like if un-rolled . Then forge the flat unrolled blank to that shape before rolling into it's final form. What you know is the the un-formed end would need no forging to be bent into the chosen radius since the start is vertical to the plane of rest. You also know that the end of the work piece that rests flat on the plane of rest is formed to the finished diameter of the piece. In your case 18". You should also be able to deduce that the curve between the two ends will be a uniformly graduation from straight to 18" in diameter. I think I would do a mock up using a smaller lighter section to test forge , roll up, re-straighten and re-forge, and re-roll until I got the idea. You might even use cardboard models to refine the shape. Then work on the finished piece. Just thinking out loud.

If you decide to wrap the interior of the forge body with refractory blanket, have a look at how I floored two of my forges. Basically you form a 3/4" or thicker sheet of wet Plastic Refractory mix by rolling the sheet between spacer blocks of the thickness that you desire . Let the sheet dry to leather hard and carefully place it in the forge over the fiber refractory . It will conform to the curveature of the forge botton. After drying, fire the forge which will fire the refractory sheet into a ceramic floor. I used a commercial refractory repair mix consisting primarily of fireclay, fire brick grog, with addatives for plasticity. The addatives I believe were graphite, with small amounts of bentonite and /or ballclay ( to improve plasticity) and perhaps zicronia. If I were to mix my own I would go to a ceramic supply store for a consult and purchase of materials. I suppose that you could use insulating brick refractory for the floor and overlay it with a mullite kiln shelf tile cut to fit.

What are your plans for the forge floor ?

I would guess that the chances are really good that the DP is in good condition. These old American machines are very durable. In addition to my Clausing, I have in my shop an old Craftsman DP that manufactured in the early 1950's and it still runs true. Although I purchased the machine in the mid 1980's I would be willing to bet that it has run all of the these years without any repair other than occasional new V Belt. I bought one just like it in 1952 when I was 14 with a serial number only 500 lower than that one that I currently have. Those machines were manufactured by King Seally and were/wore like cast iron in more ways than the material they were made from. My main concern would be that at some point in it's life a longish work piece being drilled had the bit grab the work piece and sling it against the column. If this were to happen the spindle could be tweaked/bent slightly out of alinement. If you were to purchase one with that fault , the replacement part (spindle) could cost more than the purchase price of the press. So look for that fault and other missing parts then if all seems well buy it. Happy drilling . Oh, and please don't send your snow our way. :rolleyes:

The thing is that even though parts may be available they are likely to be expensive. Bearings are probably standard generic so you could probably source them from any good supply house that sells bearings reasonably. However if the spindle is damaged that would need to be sourced from Clausing/Atlas and could be expensive. Clausing Service Center 811 Eisenhower Dr., So. PO Box 877 Goshen, IN 46526 1 800 535 6553 I talked to these folks a couple of years ago. The number should still be good. They were very helpful with questions on my clausing lathe. Give them a call and talk to the experts.

I have a model 16SG thatI have converted to 3 phase using a VFD for speed control. It is one of the most used machines in my shop. Clausing made some really good tools. I don't know anything specific about the 1447 but would consider this one seriously. I would not purchase any tool without taking a real close look. At the very least you should look closely to see if the spindle runs true. If you do not have a magnetic base and dial indicatior (the prefered method) a primative indication can be to chuck up a new drill bit and drill a test hole while feeling for movement/vibration in the work piece. Check out the Yahoo Clausing Site : https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/clausing_lathe_and_mill/info Although this site is for lathes and mills many of the members also have clausing drill presses. Clausing parts are still available but check with the clausing nobs to get a feel if there are limits to availability. Good luck

So the dowel pin/rivet holes are drilled in advance and act as a spacing guide ??

There is a lot of troublesooting information on-line for electgric motors. Here is a basic list to check out before you go to the trouble of having a pro look at it. http://www.leeson.com/TechnicalInformation/troubleshooting_acmotors.html If you do go to a motor repair shop ask if they have a used motor, with matching frame, for sale. That could save you big bucks.

Thank you for the clarification. I hadn't considered a single flow pump. I'll have a look. Edit: Alas, the use of real pumps require real motors . Since I already have my motor I must use an unreal, 2 stage pump. Thanks for the enlightenment .

I have a Teco-Westinghouse 5 HP, 3.7KW,1750 RPM, high torque, farm duty motor The motor frame is 184 TC. The following links are the source of most of the informaton and formulas that I have relied on for my research process. With interpretation, to adjust for motor speed, indicate to me that my 5 HP motor will be rated at or near continuous duty service when used with the 16/4 pump. http://www.concentricab.com/_downloads/Catalogs/HILO_PUMP_US.pdf http://www.reliance.com/mtr/flaclcmn.htm yahoo2 - I can find no indication in the literature of these two sources that make a distinction between electric and gasoline engine HP . I know that some retail sources do give HP requirements for pumps and accessory packages referenced for gasoline motors. I had a look at your link. Thank you for that reference. I can see the basis for your position. Your basic argument seems to indicate that, since the two motor types are rated for HP at different RPM's, a rating/derating factor needs to be appled in order to compare the two. If this is the case then the Concentric power graphs should be presented in two verisons. One for electric motors and one for Gasoline engines. So the question is: Which are they presenting in their literature ?

Thanks . The 16/4 pump looks like what will use . I actually found a HP/pressure curve for 2 stage pumps that confirms that a 5HP will work . The curve was for a 10 HP 3600 RPM motor which, after applying the torque conversion formula, indiactes that the 5HP x 1750 RPM motor will work. Rick's and your experience have provided a comfort zone. I am currently working on placing an order for the pump, bell, and coupler. Could be the cylinder as well . 3 HP is pushing the limits unless the supply pressure is/has been reduced. No matter if the 3HP fails it is easy enough to go to your local electrical motor service company who will be happy to unload one of their good used ones for cheap. Now that BATSON is back in the picture, and since my press is going to be a relatively low power unit, I have reopened the option that an open frame press may be the way I go. My only concern is throat depth. The Batson open press had a very shallow working depth. Gotta think that one through. I actually have a copy of the Batson book somewhere but it dissappeared with my last move. Guess my next move is to reorder it.

Thanks Ric -- Just what I wanted to hear.

I am collecting the components for a small ( 27 Ton) metal forming / forging press. I have an new condition unused 5 HP farm duty, 230 volt, 30 amp, Cap start / cap run,1800 RPM rated motor in my existing stock of parts that I would like to use. My problem is that the literature for the two stage hydraulic pumps from which I will be selecting have product data and power curves for pumps being driven only at 3600 RPM. If the formula, Torque = HP x 5252 / RPM , Is applied the result is that a 5HP, !800 RPM electric motor provides the same torque as 10 HP, 3600 RPM motor. This leads me to conclude that the smaller 5 HP, 1800 RPM motor can be used to drive pumps, with direct shaft to shaft coupling, that the product literature recommend be driven by 10 HP, 3600 RPM motors. Note: The lower RPM drive speed will of course result in a corresponding reduction in pump volume capacity. The basic question is: When selecting motors to power positive displacement, 2 stage, hydraulic gear pumps, is torque the governing factor in the ability of the motor to drive the pump at the pump's rated pressure. If torque indeed rules, then my motor may be able to power a 16 GPM pump at the reduced speed to provide 8 GPM . I have called the pump manufacturer's technical support number, and been refered to their local vendors who seem unable to answer this question.

My first forge was made from a Hibachi as well. That was back in the mid 70's. I also lined mine with fire brick. Rather than use a maniford for the air supply, I welded up an ash dump/ air tube from ( If I remember correctly) 2 1/2" pipe. Rather than having a clinker breaker I just jammed a wad or chicken wire in the discharge end of the air tube. Worked OK but had to disturb the fire occasionally to clear the wire. I used charcoal as fuel and it worked pretty well. You may have a problem keeping the air holes un-clogging. Every thing is a learning experience. What works is good. What does not work can be fixed. Forge on Bravely.

Heating pad and welding blanket.

When I bought mine, also a Perter Wright, it to was pitted. I decided to use it as it came to me. I have never regretted that decision. The pits will work out over time. Although the face will never have a glass smooth finish it will present a good working surface after some use. That one seems to have good edges and be in good working condition. Be happy with this excellent find. Wire brush it and go to work.

"If you work hot" Is an important point. From the look of your stump before and after the checking set in, it looks like you work cold and use a fairly light gage bowl blanks. One big advantage of a cast Iron swage block, bowl form, or steel torus is that you can work the iron hot. Sinking hot on iron or steel bowl forms allows the use of thicker plate material as well as producing no smoke. If you really are attached to that stump you might try drilling a series of holes centered on the offending crack. Coat the holes with glue and drive dowels into the prepared holes. I would perform this task in two stages, First spacing the holes a bit less than the diameter of the dowel used. Glue in the dowels the repeat the process in between the first course of dowels. One thing to be careful of is that the dowel holes do not dead end without a way for excess glue to escape from the hole otherwise a tight fitting dowel will act like a piston and hydrostatic pressure could stop the dowel before it reaches the bottom of the hole. Generally the crack will provide a passage for the excess glue to escape. I also like the idea of banding the stump. I would suggest a test of this process on a crack in an unused area of the stump. I have stabilized checked stumps with shim shingles and glue with some success however for a bowl form the dowels would provide end grain exposure.

Having had a closer look at your 1/2" burner, it appears that you have used a 3/4" wye fitting and have used a pipe reducer to make the 1/2" pipe fit into the 3/4" wye. My experience is that such a connection would create a very rough interior transition and therefore a lot of turbulence in the area of the burner where you most need a clean transition to promote induction of the combustion air. Any turbulence in that area is going to reduce the velocity of the propane stream and therefore reduce the induction of combustion air. When using pipe fitting in burners I always chuck them up in my lathe and turn the interior of the assembly to clean up the transition. Bottom line is that it doesn't have to be pretty on the outside but on the inside it matters. Also you might play around with the orifice extension to position it further down the burner tube. Seems to me that if you can see the orifice through the air port that you may be pushing the combustion air into the burner tube rather than inducing it to enter.

Here is a link to useful information for orifice size selection. http://www.joppaglass.com/burner/highp_chart.html Burner size ( BTU capacity) needs to be matched to the forge chamber volume. As it turns out I have a 1/2" burner that that I built in the early 90's that has an orifice drilled using a No 72 drill for a small chambered gas forge. The burner works well as it turns out my drilled orifice is also very close to a .023 Mig tip . My recollection is that the Rule Of Thumb for sizing the BTU requirements for a forge furnace is somewhere around 100,000 BTUH/ Cu Ft . Perhaps some one here can confirm that ROT or provide a means of calculating the BTUH requirements for a well insulated forge with proper end closures.

Kubiac and Herb U - So the forges that you have and have used are built to the Sandia design . I have never seen one in service but it seemed such a good idea when I was building mine that i included the feature in my hybred build. I have been surprised that they are not common since it didn't seem that dificult to build. I do not have a way to measure the actual temperature in the forge chamber so I have been at a loss as to how to carry on a meaningful investigation/discussion of the benefits or lack of benifits and was hoping that some one here has a way of measuring results and could offer some sort of hard data comparing a recuperative forge to a non-recuperative forge of similar size.

Here is are pictures of one of mine. Made from 10" sched 40 pipe, with weld bends for the aiir tube. The portion of the air tube that passes through the chimney is stainless steel . Used 1 1/2" fiber blanket. The floor is grogged refractory repair mix rolled flat in a 3/4" food form and laid in place leather hard, then fired in place. The fiire brick at the back closes a pass through opening. The gas tube is still packed from my move. There is another one as well that is made from a section of 12 " pipe that was split down the axis of the pipe and had 4" wide plate welded into the top and bottom to form a wide bodied forge for larger pieces. That one doesn't see much use because it sucks 20 tank of propane dry in about four hours. Both were built in 1993-94. Both use a small blower bolted to the forge manifold, which were sourced at Grainger. Next time I reline these I will use 2" blanket. They both get hot fast but really cook after the ceramic floor comes up to heat.

There have been a few references in past threads regarding recuperative gas forges/ forge furnaces. The Sandia recuperative forge furnace seems to be the example most referenced. However so far as I can determine from the posts no one seems to have one. If anyone actually has and uses a recuperative gas forge I would like to hear about your first hand experience. Seems like if there were tangable advantages they would be common. Who knows what ?

Think of hammer rebound not so much as the hammer jumping off of the anvil/forging but as being just enough of a rebound to over come the inertia of the hammerhead and to suppliment the force needed to get the hammer moving up. It is a matter of timing. It should also be noted that if the handle is tightly gripped at the instant of the strike the rebound is largely absorbed by the forearm. So there is the need to keep a loose grip on the handle in order to avoid dampening rebound , such as it is.