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Found 10 results

  1. Hello Everybody, I came across this old firepot and tuyere. I would like some help identifying it it's big 16x12, I have never seen a clinker breaker like this. If anyone has any information it would be greatly appreciated. There was an ash dump lid on the bottom. I'm going to clean it up this afternoon to see if I can make out any markings. Thanks
  2. I'm in the processing of creating a new forge and I want to know what YOURS is made of. Any recommendations on where to buy fire pots, blowers, sheet metal, etc.? How's it working for ya? Also, for those with a forge but WITHOUT a welder, did you have your forge pieces welder for you? Thanks! (below is the kind of forge I'm going for)
  3. I've been following the "portable side blast forge" thread with growing interest as it looks like a good way to go. However there are some aspects that are a bit foggy for me, for example, the bosh volume. Mark Aspery has a design for a tuyere and bosh Building the Side Blast Forge That design calls for a tank that's going to hold 16 gallons or so, and the instructions specify that it keeps the water from boiling off. I found this company that makes tuyere's and boshes, however the dimensions listed would put the bosh capacity at around 9 gallons. I'd be using a 2-1/2" diameter champion hand crank blower for air supply and I'm burning coke as my fuel. I found a video here that shows a tuyere design at 15:22 which is designed to be connected via hoses to a remote bosh tank. I thought I'd mimic it with 6" round schedule 40 tapering to 3-1/2" per Mark Aspery's design with a 2-1/2" air pipe tapering to 1-1/2" inside. I sounds like I should have a 1" diameter hole in the nozzle plate, but I'd appreciate any guidance from folks who know about these things. I called around for sheet metal pricing and found that I could buy a metal wash tub or trash can for less than half the cost for enough 1/8" thick sheet metal to fabricate a 9 gallon bosh. The tubs and cans are lighter gauge, but they wouldn't be as close to the fire, and they comes pre-galvanized. As I understand it, the tuyere has to be close to the bottom of the bosh level for the heat to pump the water. A 16 gallon tub would have about 133+ lbs of water in it, which isn't too bad, but a smaller container would be easier to accommodate in a mobile setup. Plus that's less water that I have to fill or drain every time I want to move the forge. We have horrible mosquito borne illnesses out here in Colorado so I wouldn't want to leave stagnant water for them to breed in. I'd like this to work properly, preferably without scalding hot water right next to where I'd be standing. Most of the built-in boshes I'm seeing are behind the breastplate of the forge. That seems like it would give the smith some protection between them and the bosh, but I don't know what a "normal" bosh temperature would be relative to it's volume. I'd appreciate some help in determining how much bosh volume I'd need to make this work safely. Thanks in advance
  4. Hey all, I have another Old forge table I am trying to rehab. I believe this table is a Champion no 8. it came with original 400 blower that still works and the firebox with is pretty solid still. I located a tuyere from the same era.... and it matches some pictures i have seen...but i have not seen this kind of grate on firebox before in the pic you will see that it dips down into the tuyere about 2 1/2 inches. This Clinker breaker actually come out of the tuyere about 1 inch.... So I have a problem.... other than that it mates up well and once i get it drilled and threaded i can mate them up..... but before i do that anyone have any genius Ideas about what to do about the Clinker breaker?
  5. Does anyone have or have information on a Champion Whirlwind 712 forge pot? I recently acquired one that is missing the clinker breaker but is in otherwise great shape. I would like to know a few things... of what material should the clinker breaker be made so as to sink less heat from my fire and does anyone have a picture of one of these fire pots? (here is a picture of one like mine only with the clinker breaker but I cannot see it well enough to copy its design) Thank you in advance for your kind consideration, Bill
  6. Hi guys, First post here but I've been getting lots of inspiration from you all recently! I'm currently in the process of building my coal forge and hope to have it completed tonight. I'll post a build report later, I think you'll like it... Anyway, I have a quick question for you - I am looking to attach my blower to the inlet pipe on my tuyere. It has a square outlet around 3 1/2 ". My fabricated inlet pipe is 3" square. I have also fabricated an air gate with a 3" square opening which will be operated from the side, forming a more or less rectangular opening depending on the position. My question is - should I mount the blower directly to the air gate, which will then be welded onto the tuyere inlet pipe or should I fab up a reducing cone with the air gate further down in line from the blower? Although it would be easier to mount the blower directly, my concern is that the air gate positioned directly at the blower outlet would interfere with the air flow and lead to inefficiency in the air flow. I'm probably over thinking it I know, but I have a choice to make and plenty of 3mm sheet for fabrication, so I'd rather get it right now than have to correct later... Any advice would be greatly appreciated Vince P.S. apologies for the craps pictures, the camera on my phone make whacky colours...
  7. I am in the process of building a forge. Anyhow, I happen to also do lapidary work and know that silicon carbide (carborundum) is extremely durable material and has a melting point around 5000 degrees F. Has anyone used carborundum as a tuyere on a coal/coke forge? Crucibles for smelting ore or metals are made from Carborundum. I did a search and some furnaces use a carborundum tuyere. An old carb wheel with a 1 inch hole could be fitted or a piece could be cut to fit and drill some holes in it with a diamond bit in a dremel or drill motor. I would think that it would last for years and you'd probably replace the pot and reuse the tuyere. Thoughts or ideas? Just thinking.... I have a piece I am going to make a 2 inch tuyere with and see how it works out. I might get me a worn out wheel and just put in in the bottom of my brake disk fire pot.
  8. I am building a forge but I think buying a cast firepot assembly may be more functional in the long run. Do any of you know a good place to buy an inexpensive firepot assembly?
  9. I've been attempting to setup a home smithy shop for 40 years. When I was a young guy scouring the desert area around Mojave, CA with my buddies, I came across a repair shop at the Silver Queen Mine, just south of Mojave. I remember popping my head in and saw several workers swinging hammers down on a bent glowing red rod, hammering it straight. The anvil is what caught my eye. 28 years later, I was doing some work for oil companies in Bakersfield, CA and was reading a local classified and came across an ad for "an old anvil". I called the number listed and arranged to see it. The gent explained that he got it from the Silver Queen Mine blacksmith shop. Needless to say, I paid too much and lugged it away. I have moved numerous times and it always moved with me. About 25 years ago, I purchased an unused cavalry hand crank portable forge blower with legs and a tuyere smothered in cosmoline. These items have also moved with me, in anticipation of setting up the shop. Now, I am retired and am looking to find a home for the blower and tuyere. The anvil is a lifetime keeper. I enjoy reading the entries. Keep them coming. Mojave Roadkill Cafe
  10. Hi all I am new to Blacksmitting (well havent started yet, building a forge) i am trying to let an old dream come true... and as this forum gave me the idea on how to build this forge, i like to share with you the progress ;) this is the firepot... it has an opening of 13" X 10" and is 4 1/2" deep, it is made of 1/2" steelplate and this is the air intake on top of the firepot. i think it is called Tuyere in english im sorry if my english writing is a bit off as i am from Iceland and is not very good at writing english. :( hopefully i can post more pic tomorrow
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