lazyassforge

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About lazyassforge

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    Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Oklahoma !!

Converted

  • Location
    Fletcher, Oklahoma
  • Interests
    Mule riding, Blacksmithing,
  • Occupation
    Machine Work

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  1. I have a lever forge and my leather belt kept stretching and slipping first I tried running it off the big wheel when I was not using the forge to release the tension on the belt. That helped but was not ideal. Then I cut a strip out of a hay bailer belt and used a splice to hold it together. That has solved the problem. The belt doesn’t slip and I have never had it get burnt in the past ten years or so. Hope this helps! Bill D.
  2. D Harris, which part did you work in the big ox/bumper side or the travel trailer buildings? I never worked there but knew people who did. When they finally sold off all the old junk, I bought a power hammer and an old anvil. Bill D.
  3. Chris, I’ve been reading about your Thursday night adventures and will have to come to town next Thursday to meet you. I usually leave fairly early because I live down by rush springs but I’ll try to stay long enough to meet you! bill D.
  4. I used to work with a lady, I won’t say she told lies, but, she would not let the truth get in the way of a good story!!!
  5. BartW, is this your vise? Looks similar to me. Maybe from Australia?
  6. This link is to saltfork craftsman website. There is a how to on the page for making simple touch marks. It is three separate PDFs on the page. My wife drew the sketches. https://www.saltforkcraftsmen.org/DoItYourselfProjects.shtm
  7. Billy, have you investigated changing out the spindle of the duff for a Bridgeport spindle with the r8 collets? I searched a little and it reads like it is fairly straightforward involving a new spindle and lower bearing. I have bought a new spindle(China made) for an old Bridgeport off the internet for less than $100. Maybe this would be a possibility?
  8. On the hex dies made for chasing threads, there is a small fairly steep (45degrees or so) taper leading into the threads. On ones made to cut new threads the taper is 3 or so threads long leading into the die so it is easier to get it started cutting. The “advantage”of the tapered tap is that the same tap can cut several sizes of thread, just by starting with different size holes or simply screwing the tap further in. hope this helps, Bill D.
  9. Vaughn T, I have no idea what the 1/32 means! There are hex shaped dies that are for chasing threads and there are hex dies for cutting new threads. The long tapered taps are used to make multiple size threads. You just screwed them in until your thread was large enough. When I was younger and worked for the old farmers I was taught to keep nuts and bolts paired up because they wouldn’t match up sometimes! One rule of thumb for tapping holes is to take the diameter of the tap and subtract one pitch of the thread to get the drill size for the hole. 1/4-20 tap= .25(1/4”) - .05(1 pitch of 20 threads per inch)=.2” hole size(17/64 (.203)is close enough) hope this helps! Bill D
  10. Whiskey , I am extremely curious what that tool is! I would post pictures over at papaws wrench in the tooltalk forum. Those guys rattle off information about obscure tools all the time. Hope this helps, Bill
  11. I have a 200 lb Colombian anvil. It has “Fulton” stamped in the side of the anvil (upside down by the way). I have always wondered if Colombian had cast the Fulton anvils
  12. It appears to be iron work to a single tree (horse drawn equipment). The u shaped long bar should be straight with the egg shaped hook on the right being where the rugs of harness hook on(the left one is missing). The bracket in the midd le hooks to the doubletree. Regional names for this equipment seems to vary depending where you are from. Hope this helps!
  13. I’m not sure if I have posted this opener before but I made it from a railroad spike some time ago.
  14. Another picture of the repaired anvil. I haven’t been able to get out and work much lately.