LDW

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Everything posted by LDW

  1. I made a new tool for making a feather. It is made from 1045 then hardened.
  2. When I have someone New I start them out by showing them how to swing a hammer, how to work the fire, and how to heat the metal. Most people take a while to learn to swing a hammer rather than just tap with it. If you make them put a point on a piece of 3/8" square stock, after you show them (in one heat) a square point this will keep them busy for a while. Let them heat it múltiple times till they get a point. You also have to teach them to cut with a hot cut. Let them work on their own till they can get a point in one heat. Point out to them to learn to look for their Mark on the steel. If you do not hit the end of the steel its hard to get a point. They learn a lot doing this exercise. After wards look up the two sided taper on youtube and continúe with that. Good luck and Happy forging.
  3. I need the shaft the fan goes on or else I need to part out one I just got.
  4. Thanks Jonathon, and the stock used on this one is 1/4" x 1/2"
  5. I posted a tutorial on facebook and asked for someone to help put it on this thread. My computer at home is on the blink and my intelligence is limited on this phone. I use my nose punch for the horse on a small bulldog to make the mouth. And on the larger ones like 1/4" x 3/4" inch stock and larger I use my curved chisels
  6. Sounds to me like we need to have a forging competition. I will be glad to participate in this. I will use my 4lb. 10 oz. hammer and someone else can use as light a hammer as they like. We can start with any size stock you choose. But, all joking aside, I agree with all that said hammer face and accuracy are the key. Most of the time I do not use my hammer when other people are using lighter hammers to make sure they do not think they have to use a heavier hammer to get the work done on small stuff like 3/8" square. a 3 lb. rounding hammer works fine for the lighter work. Just had to throw out my opinion. I learned a lot about heavier hammers from working with Brian, I used a small hammer for 5 or 6 years when I first got into this, then around 2004 I started using a 3 pound hammer. around 2010 I switched to a 3.5 lb. hammer, I ended up selling that hammer in Canada in 2012, and have been using a 4lb. 10 oz. hammer ever since.
  7. Check these guys out. http://www.blacksmithcoke.com/ They ship to all 50 states and this is some great stuff. I like it because there is no smoke and I can use it even if someone is selling food next to me when I am demonstrating.
  8. Great job. Wish I could have done something like that when I was your age.
  9. In the last three years or so I have entered into several forging contests when being at conferences. In Illinois there was a fine one where a youngster and I competed against 3 or 4 other teams by taking a cylindrical piece of steel, and had to forge it into a cube. Sounds easy enough but the difference was you could only use one arm and when the whistle blew you had to switch up with your partner. Switching, meant going from holding the tongs or the hammer. We also were using wrought iron but did not know it till it came to pieces, then you had to forge weld it back into a cube. The other contests were drawing out a piece of steel, a couple times a washer was welded to one end and you only measured the amount sticking through the washer. I really enjoyed each of these contests and only won on one occasion. I would like to start having forging contests at some of our meetings here in MS but would like to know some of the contests Ideas any of you have already witnessed or posess in your mind. Please share some ideas so we can all benefit from this. I think it is best to keep them as simple as it can be, but still require technique. It is a great way to get people involved and we all can learn from it by seeing the different approach people take to get the task accomplished. Thanks, Lyle Wynn Brandon, Mississippi
  10. I just made it home from Trying Its Hammer in and I must say it was a blast. David Gaddis and I arrived Friday about 2 or 3 in the afternoon, got unloaded, set up our station, then started forging. Stan has a heck of a shop and was willing to help with anything you needed. It was Steve McCarthys birthday so David and I made him a 3 ½ pound hammer. There were forges going inside and out. The camaraderie was great and Stans wife and daughter kept the food coming. Stans backyard was full of tents. We got up at daylight Saturday morning and started forging. Thanks everyone for making it a great event and I look forward to next year. David Gaddis made this happen for me, If it wasn’t for him I would have had to miss it. Thanks David, and everyone else that made this happen.
  11. Thats a nice looking hammer. Guess you been paying attention. Its amazing how much you learn when you do it on your own.
  12. The small feathers are 1/4" and 5/16" round. The larger ones are 3/8" Sorry about being a year late answering that question.
  13. I created a little album and put a few pics that have some feathers on them. The first picture is a guitar though. This is the newest craze I have gotten on. After making feathers for a while I realized if I bent the quill 90 degrees I could hammer in line with the feather. This way I was pulling the material towards the end of the feather rather than to the side. The original pics show one side larger than the other because of the direction the feather was turned while hammering. I also learned that when you chisel the lines, if you start on the bottom and have it closest to you. You can make each mark going away from you, this allows you to space the marks much more even. I will try and remember to take some pics of the process and post. https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos?tab=wq&gpsrc=gplp0&partnerid=gplp0#photos/106506050631612810521/albums/5875800729507362289
  14. Pulled this from the Gallery. I Think this is the last one Brian and I made. This was before we put racks on it. http://www.iforgeiron.com/gallery/image/35346-striking-vise-and-stand/
  15. Hey Chris, thats great that you have gotten so involved. I remember the first time I met you when you helped with the striking at the class in Louisiana. You sure have come a long way. If it were me I would not put in a pritchel hole. If there was one I would think it would just be for the "dial a hole". We are all indebted to you for everything you did last year, if I can ever help you let me know.
  16. A knifemaker in our group said the law showed up at his house because the neighbors said he was shooting fully auto weapons. He walked over and turned on his power hammer to show them his automatic weapon.
  17. Personally I will use anything that is not petroleum based, but when you asked that question I decided to look and see what temperature oils begin to "smell" this would be the smoking point. Then it dawned on me that the finish is acquired by bringing the oil to its burning temp, this results in the black finish. Since different oils burn at different temps I wanted to find a list of burning or smoking points of the oil. This means different oils will put a finish on a finished piece at different temps. It appears these temps can vary by 320 degrees F. Here is a link to the web site I got this from. http://www.goodeatsfanpage.com/collectedinfo/oilsmokepoints.htmI have often had children make the comment "it smells like pancakes" while I am finishing a piece. I had always mixed up the bees wax, and linseed or whatever with the Japan dryer in the past then when Brian Brazeal pulled out his oil rag and clean rag it made much more sense to me. This has tp be the way it was done for centuries. 200's: Flaxseed Oil, Unrefined : Safflower Oil, Unrefined : Sunflower Oil, Unrefined 225 F: Canola Oil, Unrefined 300's 320 F: Corn Oil, Unrefined : High-Oleic Sunflower Oil, Unrefined : Olive Oil, Unrefined : Peanut Oil, Unrefined : Safflower Oil, Semi-Refined : Soy Oil, Unrefined : Walnut Oil, Unrefined 325 F: Shortening, Emulsified Vegetable† 330 F: Hemp Seed Oil¥¥ 350 F: Butter (Good Eats) : Canola Oil, Semi-Refined : Coconut Oil† : Sesame Oil, Unrefined : Soy Oil, Semi-Refined 356-370 F: Vegetable Shortening 361-401 F: Lard 375 F: Olive Oil (Good Eats) 389 F: Macadamia Nut Oil†† 400's 400 F: Canola Oil, Refined : Walnut Oil, Semi-Refined 406 F: Olive Oil, Extra Virgin* 410 F: Corn Oil (Good Eats) : Sesame Oil** 420 F: Cottonseed Oil† : Grapeseed Oil¥ : Olive Oil, Virgin** 430 F: Almond Oil*** : Hazelnut Oil*** 435 F: Canola Oil (Good Eats) 438 F: Olive Oil* : Rapeseed Oil*** 440 F: Peanut Oil† : Sunflower Oil† 450 F: Corn Oil, Refined : High-Oleic Sunflower Oil, Refined : Peanut Oil, Refined (Good Eats) : Safflower Oil, Ref. (Good Eats) : Sesame Oil, Semi-Refined : Soy Oil, Refined : Sunflower Oil, Semi-Refined 460 F: Olive Pomace Oil** 468 F: Olive Oil, Extra Light* 485 F: Grapeseed Oil** 495 F: Soy Bean Oil† 500's 510 F: Safflower Oil† 520 F: Avocado Oil, Refined
  18. Ed did the Feb. demo at the MS Forge COuncil. Everyone enjoyed the hearts. Ed did several different types of hearts. I took a few pics. https://picasaweb.google.com/106506050631612810521/Feb2013MFC
  19. You opened up a new world for me Mark, I always had pulls featured in my mind as having a screw come from the rear. Guess I have a hard time thinking outside the box. You gave me a new avenue to play with. Tell your family I said hi.
  20. Icould not help but get in on this. Several peoplehave mentioned what they have read or what theycallthe face of the hammer. Whether you like it or not they are dies, and the anvil has dies as well. The definition has been posted. Also, the anvil has multiple dies, hard edges, slightly rounded edges, real rounded edges, and a horn. It also has a hardy hole where it is endless for the amount of dies that can be made. The hammer has multiple dies as well, the rounding hammer has a large round face but if you tilt it it gets smaller and has a smaller radius,the farther it is tilted the smaller the radius. The flat face is a large surface mainly used for planishing, but if you tilt it left or right it becomes a straight peen, the more its tilted the smaller it gets. If you drop down with your hand using the flat die it becomes a cross peen, the more you drop down the smaller the surface. These are all precise dies that are all used to aid in forging metal and the more you use these dies the more efficient you become in forging metal. I have worked with Brian for the last three years and can sincerely say that this is a genuine message he is trying to convey that strictly comes from banging away from the start (over thirty years ago) and discovering on his own that this is the most efficient way to forge Just had to put in my 2 cents.