Gary

I've done a few historical demos the last couple of years in roughly the same time period. I've not had anyone sharpshoot me too badly. They'll occasionally mention the safety glasses and ask if the hand cranked blower is period and I'll explain to them why not. People just enjoy watching you smith. Your list sounds good. I use an old metal bucket for a slack tub on the road. You can always dip water out to cool something if it won't fit in. There's a couple of pics in the gallery of my set up and costumes. I wear an old farrier's apron. The brown shirt and vest are for FT. Vancouver off-site demos i.e., Champoeg State Park. The red long john shirt and suspenders outfit for my own demo at the Oregon Trail Int. Center last year and the two Territorial Express Stage Runs and grade school demos. Gary Gallery - Blacksmith Photo Gallery Territorial Express Home Page - Tumwater Historical Association

Cooper, I'm in Portland, all the advice above is good. I've found tools on craigslist and through the NWBA to which I belong. I also volunteer at Ft. Vancouver, a cooper would be welcome there and you would be making more contacts. Antique Powerland in Brooks has a blacksmith shop and many of us smith there in the summer. Feel free to PM me if you have questions. There are more than several smiths in your area.

A local guy makes quite an assortment of digging tools, here's his site: Red Pig Garden Tools Home Page

That sounds like good size for flint strikers! http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/f7/flint-striker-8776/

Nails are always a good, quick project.

rcs7: below are the text of a pm from Mike Turner in answer to the same question I asked, and a link to a short thread mentioning stabilizing. Maybe it's more important for knife handles as they are thinner? I don't know. Evidently it's a good idea to seal the horn/antler to keep it from expanding and contracting. I'd like to hear from someone who has used it as you did (and as I intend) as a handle with a hole drilled in the end and epoxy (?) to adhere it? Hi Gary, Well here is a some up of stabilizing, this is from K & G's website who does the stabilizing. STABILIZING We do custom stabilizing. We are the original custom stabilizers for the knife making industry. We custom stabilize wood, stag, ivory, horn, bone, oosic etc. Why Stabilize? Stabilizing helps items become dimensionally stable and helps minimize or totally eliminate shrinking, cracking, expanding, warping and will not absorb water. Stabilizing items help them to become impervious to oils, raised grain when sanded and will take a very high polish. Here is there website K & G Now whether you need to depends on you. I just used a piece of elk antler on a knife that was supplied by the young man I helped build 2 knives he did not want to pay to have it stabilized. It was nothing but trouble it kept shrinking and expanding and warped. Now using antler as a fire set handle material you may or may not have a problem, but keep in mind that it will shrink and do all kinds of things which may cause problems with the way you attach it. Mike Turner http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/f14/completed-knives-8035/

rcs7- That BBQ set looks great! Have you used antler before? I just heard in the bladesmithing forum about stabilizing horn, antler etc. Have you had any experience with that? I plan on using some antler as handles on a fireplace set.

Welcome, doesn't John Prutsman help out there (CCC)? He volunteers at Ft. Vancouver.

The link below is a good primer on firemaking. It also goes into making char cloth which is a major part. You really need good char cloth to catch that spark. I have found monk's cloth (at your local fabric store!) to catch and hold a spark well. Flint & Steel Fire Lighting Tips

I installed windows in every wall, except the back where the forge is, and both the 36" door and my six foot slider have windows. I also installed two skylights (a 10' by 20' shop) and have plenty of light during the day. I only need the flourescents at night or a really cloudy day.

I made these last night for my daughter to give to a customer who owns a bow shop. Broadhead Arrow Steak turners - Blacksmith Photo Gallery

FDISK, did you use any galvanized pieces in the building of your forge? It could account for the ill feeling you're getting. Are you familiar with metal fume fever?

Phil, I have had better luck with coil spring (high carbon). I just made a couple of batches, the spring usually takes less forging to get to shape. I forge, reheat to transition temp., let cool slowly in ash overnight, file the face of the striker flat and then hit it with a farrier's rasp to roughen it a bit, then reheat to transition temp. and quench in oil (just the face).

You might try the link below. I searched for vise in the gallery. I believe there was a thread on "show us your vise" but I couldn't find it. Search - Blacksmith Photo Gallery

Flint Srikers for the kids Bottle openers for the guys and the forged hardware for an oxen yoke for my wife. Where she's going to put that yoke I don't know!

In my previous post I meant to leave the cable in the middle as the handle and weld both ends.

I have some 3/4 in cable, not sure of it's parentage, to play with. I wanted to make some small knives for gifts. Not wanting to weld the whole length into a billet I believe I've heard I just need to forge weld the two ends and draw out to shape. should I also be twisting to put pressure on the ends? Thanks

Welcome, there are several groups in our area. The NWBA has many active members, blacksmith.org. Ft. Vancouver has a blacksmith Guild and a 4 forge shop. Stop by sometime when you're in the area. Some of us belong to both groups and smith down at the Annual Steam-up in Brooks, Welcome to Antique Powerland. Once you meet some people things start falling into place easier.

I recently took a tool making class. I had some marginal success at a recent conference and was feeling good about myself and where I was at. This class showed me how much I didn't know. I struggled and failed and hopefuly learned something from the sad looking bunch of items I ended up with at the end of the class. I have much work to do.

I use a canvas rigger's bag from Harbor Fright. I put a thin piece of plywood in the bottom. 38124 - Blacksmith Photo Gallery

Nice job on the hoofpick. I was making one at a demo where a stagecoach was being run and the driver came by to watch. He said a good hoof pick was flat not pointed, the better to scrape and not gouge the hoof. That's how I make them now.

Here's my setup. Historic Demo - Blacksmith Photo Gallery