Phil Patrick Posted December 10, 2008 Share Posted December 10, 2008 After all of the silly things I have made, I have never made a flint striker. I will be giving them away this year as gifts. So, Two questions. 1) What type of steel to use. Mild, higher carbon, low carbon, paperclips? 2) Should the finished piece be hardened or left soft? As usual, many thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don A Posted December 10, 2008 Share Posted December 10, 2008 Use old files... Nicholson / Black Diamond, etc. Forge to final shape. Use sandpaper or something similar to clean the striking edge to bright. Heat to critical (non-magnetic) and edge quench in water. Leave dead-hard... don't draw any temper. Polish the edge back to bright. Use a good flint. Should be plenty of sparks. Good luck, Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don A Posted December 10, 2008 Share Posted December 10, 2008 Let me clarify on the edge quench... if you have a handle or tail or whatever, there is no sense having it hardened. It only makes it brittle. Just harden the stiking part. Here's a few of mine: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Patrick Posted December 10, 2008 Author Share Posted December 10, 2008 Fantastic! Thank you very much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Posted December 10, 2008 Share Posted December 10, 2008 Phil, I have had better luck with coil spring (high carbon). I just made a couple of batches, the spring usually takes less forging to get to shape. I forge, reheat to transition temp., let cool slowly in ash overnight, file the face of the striker flat and then hit it with a farrier's rasp to roughen it a bit, then reheat to transition temp. and quench in oil (just the face). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keykeeper Posted December 10, 2008 Share Posted December 10, 2008 Good topic here. I have seen many of these made and shown here on IFI. Never have made one myself, but would like to someday. I have (literally) a half-ton of coil spring steel for stock. Maybe I need to research them some more, but exactly how are they used. Do you strike the flint against them, or the striker against the flint? And, where do you get the flint stone at? Someone please clarify this for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Finnr Posted December 11, 2008 Share Posted December 11, 2008 I run batches of strikers out of 3/8 heavy duty garage door spring with excellent results. Face quench only shine that puppy up nice and smooth on the striking face. You are slicing off small bits of steel with your flint each time you strike and the smooth face works far better that a rough one. I strike the steel against the flint in a motion that I just can't describe but could teach you in about a minute and a half. About any stone that would have been knapped into a tool (flint, jasper, quartzite and a bunch of others ) will strike sparks. The stone has to be harder than the steel and well sharpened. Finnr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keykeeper Posted December 11, 2008 Share Posted December 11, 2008 Thanks Finnr, I also "youtubed" it and found several videos on flint and steel fire-making. Now to make a few strikers and have a go of it. Ya really do learn something new everyday! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waianvil Posted December 11, 2008 Share Posted December 11, 2008 finnr, that what use also works very good,I know a guy that sell them on ebay jake two feathers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pawnee1 Posted December 11, 2008 Share Posted December 11, 2008 Morning All, I'm going to post a how to on flint striker, in my gallery (Pawnee 1). I make the strikers that October Country sell, they sell muzzleloading supplies, wholesale and retail, i've made more than 1000's for them. Take care. Pawnee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Posted December 11, 2008 Share Posted December 11, 2008 The link below is a good primer on firemaking. It also goes into making char cloth which is a major part. You really need good char cloth to catch that spark. I have found monk's cloth (at your local fabric store!) to catch and hold a spark well.Flint & Steel Fire Lighting Tips Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pipeliner32 Posted December 12, 2008 Share Posted December 12, 2008 Very good post, I do some historical reinactment, would like to make some stikers to put on the trade blanket. Pipeliner32 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craig Posted December 12, 2008 Share Posted December 12, 2008 I've never made a flint striker myself, but after reading how they work I'm going to have to try a couple...and see if I can get my hands on some type of flint-like stone. Great photos and links guys !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rthibeau Posted December 12, 2008 Share Posted December 12, 2008 flint strikers......either you be lucky or you be better than average......I can't get consistent sparkers.... so I would like to buy some from those who have the talent....PM me please....oh and I have a bunch of flint for trade...but I need good strikers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Patrick Posted December 14, 2008 Author Share Posted December 14, 2008 Just wanted to give an update. Using old files for stock to make the strikers produces a pretty good quality striker. Very spark-o-riffic. (yes that is a real word). Now, breaking the material down into a desirable size is a bit tedious. It might be a suprise to some of you that files are pretty tough! I am going to try some spring stock tomorrow and see how well that works out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arbalist Posted December 15, 2008 Share Posted December 15, 2008 I'm confused with this (easily done!) what type of finish does the part of the striker that contacts the flint have??? - because I don't see how it works if it's smooth? A nice close up picture would be good if anyone has one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Patrick Posted December 15, 2008 Author Share Posted December 15, 2008 I have been forging the piece to shape, then dressing the striking sirface on the rough stone of my bench grinder. Then, I harden the face (see earlier in this thread), then wire wheel the whole thing. After that, I rub the face of the striker (by hand) against a belt of rough sand paper. I think it is like 80 grit. In the end , the face has a smooth but scuffed up appearance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Finnr Posted December 15, 2008 Share Posted December 15, 2008 Arbalist. What you are doing is slicing off thin shavings of the striker with the flint. A smooth surface will work far better than a rough one , Zippo not withstanding. Finnr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arbalist Posted December 15, 2008 Share Posted December 15, 2008 Ok, thanks guys, so I guess it's not too critical really just smooth and shiny! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don A Posted December 15, 2008 Share Posted December 15, 2008 Now, breaking the material down into a desirable size is a bit tedious. It might be a suprise to some of you that files are pretty tough! Are you sure that you are getting it hot enough to forge? I have found files to be extremely easy under the hammer compared to some of the more alloyed "spring steels". And "amen" to Finnr... your sparks are burning steel, not bits of flint. A rough edge is only going to grind your flint down quicker. Keep it smooth and bright. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Patrick Posted December 15, 2008 Author Share Posted December 15, 2008 Temp is not a problem. My problem (read me complaining) is that my stock of old files are like 12"+ by 1+" wide mill files. So, turning them into square profiles is frankly a little dull and tedious. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Finnr Posted December 15, 2008 Share Posted December 15, 2008 heat them up and hot split them. Lots less material to move that way. Finnr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Patrick Posted December 15, 2008 Author Share Posted December 15, 2008 Ahh good idea! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quenchcrack Posted December 15, 2008 Share Posted December 15, 2008 Tsk Tsk...blacksmiths are just so lazy. They always find the easy way to do hard work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Patrick Posted December 15, 2008 Author Share Posted December 15, 2008 Remember,, work smarter, not harder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.