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  2. The Buffalo 200 is a very good blower, from what I see ya done good.
  3. Followed me home from the festival demo today. I couldn’t pass up the price, especially considering the condition.
  4. Got a bit of work in on saturday Got lot done today including some last grinding Happy with the handle and put a first coat of linseed oil. Pretty much just need to heat treat, come up with some kind of nut for the end and a sheath. Times ticking away getting close. A little scared to heat treat. The coupons you see are from the tang. One quenched in water and one in oil. The water quenched one is harder for sure. Im going to put them in the toaster oven now. See what happens. Am not going to put a blood groove. Thanks for looking
  5. Slag I will try the Neatsfoot oil glad to hear there is no danger to Neats or Feets Andrew I have no experience with this or any hammer so I am winging it any advice is appreciated . You say you have a 100# hammer is it a Bradley Compact like mine? I don't know if my videos are even loading . When i look they are empty I just posted another is it viewable?
  6. Today
  7. So I have my forge running pretty good and hot. It's a home built twin venturi burner forge made from and old propane bottle and insulated with refractory cement. What I need now is a quick way to turn it down when I take the work out. I know I have seen systems that have a main value with a small adjustable bypass so that you can throw that value and the forge cuts back to a set minimal burn and then when the main valve is opened again the forge jumps back to full go. I am sure I could work it out but I thought I would ask if there are plans for such a system already laid out and debugged. If it was foot actuated that would be even better.
  8. I would spend no more than $360 US on it. The welding rods would cost almost that much to repair it.
  9. Yeah I think it could be refurbished but what would that cost? Is that something I could educate myself on and do it myself? I have a welder and access to milling machines to resurface the top. Assuming they are willing to reduce the prices what is a fair price for this anvil in this condition?
  10. Yesterday
  11. Often I get asked about why I spend all this time making something that just right way. Hitting it what seems to be for ever.. Or why I choose a 7/8" round bar to upset to get 1.250 square bar in a video. this video towards the end of it pretty much sums it up nicely. (timeline 24.28) I strive to do the best work I can do on all items and it has to meet my requirements as to what I am trying to achieve. Also watch how Francis swings his hammer.. https://video.unctv.org/video/folkways-fire-forge-blacksmithing
  12. Beyond words my good man, beyond words. Thank you.
  13. You can get manuals for all Lincoln welders on their web site.
  14. OK, I spent day on YouTube & this site. After getting very tired I went back to the T burner of Frosty"s and decided I will follow these plans. I went to hardware store & got parts to start again. Only issue is the. 033 tip & configure to attach to or work with T. I am failing to understand clearly although I have an idea how to accomplish. Wish me success!
  15. Hi, hopefully this is the right place to post this. I'm starting to consider getting a welder, and I'm looking for advice on different options. I think I'd like to start with a stick welder since they don't require the hassle of shielding gas, and I've heard from several sources that it is a good type to start with. Now the problem I'm facing: the only 230v circuits I have access to are wired with 20A breakers. I'm not an electrician, but I'm pretty sure that rules out being able to use a Lincoln tombstone welder for instance. I'm assuming this amperage constraint this limits me to relevantly low-amperage welders, but I don't see myself needing to weld huge pieces of material anyway. Currently what I imagine I'd use it for is repairs and relatively light fabrication. Am I better off buying new, or trying to find a used unit? I don't mind waiting a while to find a good deal, but is buying an old one relatively risk-free as long as the leads are in good condition and it strikes an arc? If I do purchase one used, what amperage would be able to work with the 20A breakers? I know new welders have documentation with information about required input power, but an old one likely won't still have its manual. Is 100A a safe choice? Alternatively, if a new welder is a better choice, any specific recommendations that aren't too expensive? If I'm missing any information, please let me know. Thanks!
  16. Here is a shot of it running D7A8207E-ABC2-447B-BDB1-1FAA5911D474.MOV
  17. Too lmuch time spent? We will pass; our improvements remain in the world. Too much time? I don't think so.
  18. I've been given a lot of information and experience. This summer I helped out a smith and he taught me a lot as well, and it was really an awesome experience that I really appreciate.
  19. found a piece of steel that I'd punched a hole through (very badly) a while ago.
  20. I finally got my anvil mounted. When I got it it came on a very crude stand assembly but some of the components had promise. The base section is a VERY heavy cast iron/steel turbine pump section with an approximate weight of north of 300#. The middle portion was a section of thick wall steel pipe which bolted to the cast base with studs welded to the pipe. I cut away a very crude mounting arrangement on top of the pipe section and shortened the pipe to the anvil working height I was shooting for. I then welded a round 3/4" steel plate to the thick wall pipe. The crescent-shaped locators were salvaged from the original crude arrangement. My welding is still a bit crude but I'm making progress... To dampen out the ringing, I put 3/16 EPDM rubber between : 1. The pipe section and casting, 2. The anvil and the 3/4" plate, and 3. A boss on the casting which reaches up under the 3/4" plate (not visible in the photo). I finalized the mounting by clamping the anvil to the 3/4" plate with toe-clamps. The mounting is rock solid and the rubber interfaces dampen the ringing nicely. I'd estimate 500 lbs (+) total but its fairly easy to move by rolling on the edge of the base. I finished up by carefully radiusing the edges of the anvil face to get rid of the sharp corners. I'm very pleased with how it turned out. I've been rounding up some very nice hammers and am about ready to start. I've found a propane forge I can borrow until I make a decision between coal and propane. I'm about to go get some sucker rod and begin making tongs and a few hardies. Enough words... Enjoy the eye candy. Dan
  21. One hairdryer should be plenty. More is not always better. 2 inches of coal doesn’t sound like it is enough.
  22. The gap in the jaws is better than a half inch. Can't grab a nail or horseshoe with them unless you are completely flush, and at that they are not stable. Like I said, they hold a spike well, though.
  23. Without an exhaust opening the forge will not do well. So yes cut openings for the exhaust. BTW... Welcome aboard, have you read this yet? It will help you get the best out of the forum. READ THIS FIRST You might want to look through the Forges 101 section for ideas on the exhaust openings. What is your forced air source? Can't see it in the pictures.
  24. I don't have one but have used another smiths NC Knifemaker. It had no trouble reaching welding temps, although I think he said it needed to be coated with Plistix 900. That was several years ago.
  25. The over head line shaft pulleys converted to run with a bottom mounted motor
  26. Good work DHarris. I try to get things to match and it doesn't always work out, but I'm getting better at it. Good on your daughter for being able to raise so much money with her crafts.
  27. And then I say that and find some just like on Google. Dang it.
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