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  1. Yesterday
  2. Yesterday I fired up my first forge for the 3rd time yesterday, each time using bituminous coal. I know the firepot is shallow, and maybe a too large in width and length (Depth 1.5", base 8"x6", top/opening 11.5"x10") so I am looking for recommendations to remedy my forge situation. My first attempt was to pile coal and try to keep steel at least 5 inches from the bottom of the firepot; I burnt nearly everything because I let nearly everything get to low (2-3 inches from the bottom). For my second attempt, I made a wire frame above the firepot as a visual marker to keet the steel ar or above 5" and thereby outside of the oxidization area. Yesterday I put a parameter of bricks around the firepot, effectively raising walls to 5 inches. This worked much better, so the only times I burnt anything was when I failed to recognize a large clinker had formed. I do think that the brick solution increases the effective size of the firepot to much, and it limits cokeing of the coal outside of the firepot and maks it difficult to pull in new coal/coke into the firepot. I think the best solution, besides buying a new firepot, is to build a clay duck's nest that reduces the volume and has an external ramp for feeding new coal/coke into the fire pot. Please let me know if my idea is good, or if you recommend another route.
  3. The first branding iron I made was the letters DK, all made out of a continuous piece of 1/4 inch square stock. It was interesting and I was proud of it, until I put it to a test board and found out the letters were backwards.
  4. The closest thing I have to a magic hammer is a 21/4 pound cross peen that my grandfather gave me in 1957. That hammer served him as a blacksmith in the U.S. Army under Blackjack Pershing, chasing Pancho Villa all over the Mexican border. When the Army started to become mechanized they made him a mechanic. After his stint in the Army he went to work as a mechanic at a Pierce Arrow and Franklin dealership. That hammer is my go to hammer to this day and even though I had to replace the handle last year, I still feel a connection to my grandfather every time it moves metal on the anvil for me.
  5. Yes, I always test these things on a piece of soft pine. We have a panel next to the forge with a bunch of brand marks.
  6. Welcome JSA, have you read this yet? READ THIS FIRST
  7. Looking for blacksmiths in Manitoba and what part of the province your fro.
  8. Right on. Go ahead and try a few different inner cores if you have the time/resources, post results. I only had 2x12” sections of pipe.
  9. Look for key stock at your steel supply place. Be sure you smooth and round all the surfaces as you do not want it grabbing and breaking any hair.
  10. Welcome to IFI. I always suggest reading this to get the best out of the forum. READ THIS FIRST - I'm sure someone familiar with that anvil will be along shortly with info. Could that be Wooldridge G. & Son? They were anvil and tool makers in the late 1800s located in Stourbridge England. It would help to know where in the world you are located. Hence the suggestion to edit your profile to show it.
  11. It's my mother's birthday in a week, and I was wondering if anyone has the starting stock size and length for a hair pin similar to the one pictured. I searched with my favorite engine, but the term 'hair pin' comes up alot more than I thought it would in conversation in here, and not just about pinning up hair. It was mentioned that this one was too bulky and heavy, and I think they used 3/8in square for the holding part, so I'm thinking 5/16 or 1/4 in, any input would be helpful. Thank you
  12. Hi, Can anyone please help me identify this anvil, and tell me more about it. I found it in my grandpa's stuff and wanted to see if I should keep it or sell it. Thank you. All I can make out is it says something-something & son Stonebridge best
  13. With the weather men vying for ratings shares, the news is more like reality tv than anything else. Honestly you get numb. After being told that their was a 90% chanch in your area for three days, having friends and family calling to see if your ok onlynto have the storms go 50 miles north and west of you (wich they do 99% of the time) you learn to just go about your business. Other wise you spend most of two months scared and stressed out. Dont get me wron, I feel for the peaple who were in the path of the storms but after so many false alarms and over hyped situations the media is doing its best to ruin the enhanced warning system just like they did the original warning system. I miss Gary Engle. At least you told you the truth and provided a play buy play instead of making it sound like it will be the end of the world nest Friday. sorry if my rant breaches the ban on politics, but it gives the rest of the country inside into the Oklahoma mindset when it comes to tornado risk.
  14. I have a piece of 1” flat bar along the inner curves of the base which I peened tight to the anvil so nothing moves
  15. Les L, I'm on my phone so maybe I can't see it. Is there anything holding it to the stand or is it just the weight of the anvil? Pnut (Mike)
  16. I’m new to this hobby and want to get some information on this anvil. (Yes I have the best wife ever, she bought this for me). Its stamped acme on the waist, the foot under the hill is a U. On the foot under the horn is stamped 125 and on the left is stamped A146397. I really would like to get some ideals on the best way to fix the face and step. Any other information would be appreciated. Thanks, Doc
  17. Lol, I just wanted to let you know that every one of your responses made my day. Id put you to work any day of the week straightening iron,,, on my dead flat anvils. every one of your responses hit the mark. Back to reality, are those pieces wrought, mild or high carbon? Ive seen it around but never got any. Im guessing wrought. .
  18. Believe it or not the geometry gets a lot simpler if you straighten the spring. It is best done cold with a large press. Any decent spring shop should be able to help.
  19. A set of powered bending rolls is the go to for straightening...even a tire roller will work but the hand cranking will steal your time and energy savings. I have also found that a lot of old silo or tank rings are wrought iron. As to Charle's comment, afraid I have to enthusiastically agree. Straightening stock on a gently swayed anvil is by far the fastest hand method.
  20. I've read everything I can find, and have done tons of searches and not found my answers or I wouldn't be asking these questions. I'm a total newbie. Trying to design my first forge. From all I've read, I've decided a FARB is the direction I want to go, for my purposes. I'm trying to get all this "forced air" stuff to make sense in my feeble brain. It would seem to me that the total area of the holes in the burner should equal the area of the incoming pipe through which the forced air and gas travel. My forge will end up with a 6"x6"x12" interior. I've not welded it up yet, but my burner tube is 2.75"x3"x10.5". Incoming pipe is 2". The area of a 2" (mine is actually 2.080") is 3.397946614". I think I prefer smaller than crayon diameter holes so I'm planning on using plastic straws. The ones I presently have on hand to measure (maybe not what I'll end up using) measure 9/64th". Their area is .06212622191". So if my calculations are correct, that would mean I need 54 straws. That's going to be difficult to cast around. So, a couple of questions: First, is it important, with forced air, to match the area of the exit holes to the incoming pipe as I've shown? Second, with the proposed 432 cubic inch interior of my forge, is the 10.5" burner too large? Oh, and another thing..................since the forge cavity is square would introducing the burner from the side.........toward the top of the cavity, be more conducive to even heat than coming directly down from the top of the forge, or does it make any difference?
  21. Forgot to mention that the part extending out the back of the head stock will need to be restrained somehow to keep it from whipping. I had a length of PVC that I used that was supported on a stand.
  22. Even when you have the original order in front of you on the welding table, things can somehow go sideways. Before you turn it over to the client, brand a piece of wood to be sure it works, and to check it against what the client wants. Then present the branded wood to the client to hang on his wall. Make a second branded piece of wood to hand on your wall as a demo piece of your work.
  23. Same here as John McPherson. I also worked as a BSA camp counselor. Just a few parents and hundreds of Scouts. Counselors were also under the age of 18 in many cases.
  24. It is not worth $295, but unfortunately someone may buy it at that because it is a "real" anvil, and anvils are black gold now......... I would pay scrap rate for it, as it still has some usefulness like Pnut mentioned. If I got it I would mill the low face section flat, then maybe bolt custom tooling to it, or maybe a dovetail for attaching tooling. But that is a bit of work, so I would want it as low cost as possible.
  25. Leather workers use the old smooth doorknobs for tampers. Pr3ssure - sent ya a message about crushing coal.
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