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  2. Success! Replugged the center holes, leaving 8 rows (4 on either side) of [email protected] So 192 holes total. Basically it's like having two side by side long burners. Not much hassle getting it to heat. Needed to run it at 15lbs and a little rich until it got up to 2000F, then it was fine. No singing anymore! Ran it a few hours and worked on a wrought iron viking axe I'm making for a friends wedding. It's a forced air, running with two .040 jets (so it's consumption at various pressures is equivalent to two 3/4" burners). Forge is about 320-350 cu inches (about 4.5 x 5 x 14" long). Once up to heat (takes a little time since it has a Mizzou refractory shelf), I was running it at about 3 lbs a little rich and it was holding at 2300 or so for regular forging (I was forging wrought so I was going hot). If I brought it up to 5-6 lbs, it was going over my 2400F max on my digital pyrometer. Seems really really efficient! Also seems like it may still be a little overpowered for the forge. I'll take some pics when I play today. Also, got a movie of the flames singing. We'll see if it downloads...Nope. Didn't. I'll have to figure it out. You can see the flames vibrating when it sings...very cool to see the harmonics. DanR
  3. The ring indicates there isn't any internal problems so just a surface flaw. Ring and Rebound are the important factors and your new one passes with flying colours! Anvils for a crate of beer--------didn't I read about that sort of deal in Faust?
  4. I think oxidation of the steel, scaling up, would disrupt the size of the burner holes over time. I had an old fashioned "flame holder" on my forge burner that scaled up enough to cause issues with it.
  5. Got a few minutes in the shop to clean a bit more; spent most of Saturday going to the NM Artist Blacksmiths Association meeting in Santa Fe; 2+ hour drive and the meeting was to start at 8 am. I got up at 4:30 and stopped by a friend/student's place in Albuquerque to mooch a ride the rest of the way. Nice short meeting showing a simple yet creative way of make rosettes for ornamental work. Got a really really good pick in iron in the hat, (I'll post a picture on it followed me home.) and gave my second pick to the friend who drove me to the meeting. Then we drove a short way over to Frank Turley's Blacksmithing school where he received the Heritage Award from ABANA for running his school for 50 years! (Previous recipients include Colonial Williamsburg and the John C Campbell school!) It was an honor just being there to see Frank receive it!
  6. Latest cast burner. Works great. Played with a few tips and ended up with a 3D printer tip drilled to .046. Don't need to show the forge running....it's hot. 2380F at 5 lbs. DanR
  7. In general the surface of the burner block is roughly the same temperature as the rest of the forge chamber in normal operating conditions. My ribbon burner is recessed a little from the rest of the forge chamber, so there may be a slight difference but it's not significant. I drilled holes in an insulating firebrick rated for 2300 degrees F and used that for my burner head. I managed to melt (or at least vitrify) the IFB when I had the forge cranked up high. I'm not sure of the temperature I reached, but I would guess it was over 2500 degrees in order to have that effect. Even if the steel in your burner head didn't actually melt or burn up in a shower of sparks, it would be glowing hot and slowly transfer the heat backwards which would almost certainly result in ignition inside the plenum eventually. Of course I could be wrong and you could try it and report back, but imho that approach would be problematic very quickly. I also strongly suspect that if it were a viable solution not very many people would want to take the time to create molds and all the hassle that goes with casting compared to drilling and welding.
  8. My sodoerfors has some small "wrinkles" on the sides frim casting but they arn't that big.
  9. Note that the body of that anvil will have been made from real wrought iron; which some folks find tricky to arc weld as it requires more filler than when welding mild steel. I'm with the "make a hardy tool if you need a smaller horn to work on" group. Many anvils have blunted horns; though not to that extent, you only need to accidentally ram a sharp horn into your thigh, (if you are lucky!), one time to understand why so many have the tip of the horn hammered flat. The crossed emblem was for Queens Cross Dudley where they were located.
  10. luckily,have several options on that front----was pure curiosity----Im sure all types of remedies have been attempted,was opening the discussion to anecdotal stories-----anyone have luck building up w/weld ? attaching a new tip ?
  11. Today
  12. People used anvils for years that had no horns at all. Why not get a small cone mandrel and mount it horizontally to a hardie post?
  13. Not sure how long my new Wilkinson (?!) will be under my roof, but Im guessing as long as it is,will probably keep its shortened stature. But it got me thinking ----to restore the horn,options are probably 1) build it up w new weld 2) weld on a prosthetic 3) get out the grinder. Just curious----any anecdotal stories for "re-horning" ? hits ? misses?
  14. You can place a socket over one of the pins for a different radius.
  15. Fowllife: very nice table! I too like to use bending jigs. After about the 3rd different set I had made for a different radius, I saw somewhere (probably on IFI) about this design. Weld your pins on opposing pieces of angle iron. You can place these in your vice jaws and slide them apart for a nearly infinite range of radii. My apologies for the hand drawn pic, but I'm not near my shop. If you use a good heavy angle, and have your vice properly secured, you can bend some pretty stout material.
  16. Sounds like me, I'll be 78 next month, I'll have to leave instructions for the wife to make sure she doesn't yard-sale this grinder for $30. Looks like you have a great setup for slack-belt grinding. I'll bet you will also eventually want to add a removable tool arm holder of some sort, so you can run home brew tool arms with a platen and a contact wheel one of these days. Neither are hard to add, the tool arm/contact wheel was easy, but from my experience I recommend purchasing a professionally fabricated platen/wheel setup from the outset. I initially made a platen using skateboard wheels and it worked OK most of the time, but wheel alignment on a platen needs to be perfect, and my "precision" home shop fabrication/assembly tolerances (add one more washer here or there, lol) resulted in intermittent tracking problems, depending on which side of the belt I put pressure on. After I was making knives more often I finally bit the bullet for the real deal, and it runs smooth as silk. Very well spent $90. BTW, in 1978, when the Navy was scheduling my next duty transfer after three years in Hawaii, they offered to send me on a 3-year assignment to the USN communications facility near Perth. But with two boys in high school at the time I opted to go to the U.S. east coast for my final tour before retirement (I retired the first of three times in 1980). I think I would have enjoyed a down under tour, have always liked Oz folks, they are salt-of-the-earth type people. G'day and enjoy the grinder!
  17. Good deal indeed. The handled punches are worth that. Pnut
  18. Picked up a few tools for $60. The socket for the handle on the Beverly Shear is broken off, but that is only a 5 minute fix.
  19. I moved from Maryland thirty years ago when I was a young teenager. I don't know how far away it is from you but have you checked into the Mid-Atlantic Blacksmith Association? You can also check for an ABANA affiliate closer to you. I'm sure there's something going on not too far from you. You just have to have the time to do it which I know can be a problem. I made my jabod out of a night stand from the hotel I work at. I use a jumpstarter/power station to power an electric air mattress pump and a thirty inch piece of RR rail standing on end in a five gallon bucket filled with fine gravel as an anvil. Now that I've listed everything I did spend $11 on the matress pump at Walmart. I put off getting started for a long time because I thought I needed certain things to blacksmith. IFORGEIRON showed me how easy it is to get up and running and it doesn't have to cost much. I wish I would have used all the time I wasted thinking I needed this or that actually learning to forge instead of hesitating and thinking everything needed to be perfect. There's no perfect forge, anvil, or whatever. I would be much farther along than I am currently if I would have figured that out sooner. Oh well hindsight is 20/20 I guess. Don't get caught thinking you have to have something that looks like Wile E Coyote ordered it to drop on a roadrunner or a "real" forge. A solid fuel forge is just a hole In the ground and a jabod just raises the hole up to a convenient height. You can only work the steel under your hammer so that's about three inches at most so an anvil only need be as big as your hammer. A piece of 3 or 4 inch round or square bar or plate will work to get started. Good luck and remember it's supposed to be fun. Pnut
  20. Good advice. Thank you.
  21. Hello all. Just joined the group in New Zealand. Totally new to all of this.. using sheet copper to experiment with colours. Anyone tried Everbright for sealing? Cheers Kearvy
  22. So don't worry about the "crack" (there's no trace of it on any other side, and the anvils rings like one piece) ? Has anyone ever seen a casting flaw like this ? It's a real ear-buster, it makes a half a minute very high pitch resonant ring which is truly unpleasant. Anyone any suggestion for a mobile stand that deadens the rings of an anvil ? greetz; bart
  23. Amazing work Doctor. Your pattern welding always amazes me. Pnut
  24. Thanks Glenn! Appreciate the pro-tips for navigation and the suggestions. Pnut, I can't say it's handsome but I can say it's brimming with ingenuity and I'm definitely impressed - and it's fair enough evidence that perhaps I should not be waiting for my forge-variables to align themselves pleasantly. I'll see what I can manage. Also Pnut, I have a good friend that lives in Towson I visit frequently. I live in a college town about 2 hours east of Frederick. Central Maryland seems to have a pretty active smithing/art-oriented community, and it's a shame that I can't find anything of that caliber closer to home. I'm sure there are folk engaging in the craft near me, they're just not overtly concerned with touting it publicly/online. Which, you know, fair enough. Anyways, thanks again for the input - I'll try to utilize the sage wisdom granted unto me.
  25. No I think I have a pretty good grasp on lining the shell and a T burner seems straight forward enough. I may be in for a surprise though. When I said plunge I really meant time and $$$ for materials. I have a solid fuel forge that's done everything I've needed so far. I started out with the intention of going with a gas forge until I figured out how simple a solid fuel forge really is to build. So it's more a matter of justifying the expense and finding time. It's been hard enough finding time to use the forge I have and whether I want to use that time to actually forge something or building a forge. I'll get around to it eventually but until then I will keep following along here and there's a ribbon burner thread I've been keeping an eye on. Keep it up and best of luck to all. Pnut
  26. Pine ridge covers the size of the chamber in their FAQ. https://www.pineridgeburner.com/faq
  27. Howdy... Here is something else from an old man's front yard...a quick and dirty Hugs and Kisses patterned sword... 28" ish blade...1070/L-6 and some meteoric iron for the blade,...one piece blackened bovine ivory grip with three piece phosphor bronze and buff horn guard and pommel plates...didn't turn out all that bad..Made this for a show we are attending this weekend...already listed for sale on my site as well.. Hope these pics turn out... JPH
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