I want to mount my 110 lb anvil on a steel stand. I was wondering why I dont see people taping 4 threaded bolt holes into bottom of the anvils and bolt them to the stand.  Just asking before I do something possibly stupid.

This is one of those things that sounds good in theory but probably won't work out well in practice. I think the biggest problem (assuming that you successfully manage to drill and tap your anvil, which,  depending on whether it's made from wrought iron, cast iron, or cast steel, could be tricky) is that the repeated hammer blows are likely to stress the threads, leading to loosening of the bolts at best and stripping out at worst. 

There's also the fact that it's a lot easier to build a stand to suit your anvil than it is to modify your anvil to suit your stand.

Loctite.

I think the effort involved would outweigh any benefit. Straps or staples, made correctly, would be easier and just as if not more effective.

Getting the holes aligned would be a challenge for me. 

That's why we have transfer punches!

If a person wishes to bolt or screw their anvil down they need to buy a Fisher. 

As said drilling an unknown iron based material like all but the best modern anvils is a guessing game usually involving broken expensive bits. 

I was going to call BS on locktite but happily I'd just talked about how fast adhesives change and thread locking compounds being adhesives probably change just as fast.

IF a hole can be drilled Helicoils should provide as survivable a threads in cast iron, etc. as anything.

Ditto TRANSFER PUNCHES! You can usually pick them up cheap at pawn or second hand shops. take a bolt size gage along and buy the ONE punch you need unless you're going to do a lot of building in which case transfer punches are a godsend.

Frosty The Lucky.

Helicoil, good call.

20 minutes ago, Frosty said:

If a person wishes to bolt or screw their anvil down they need to buy a Fisher. 

To clarify for those who don't know, Fisher anvils (which were made with a cast iron base and a steel working face) had mounting lugs cast into their bases:

(NB: according to IFI member njanvilman (who knows more about Fisher anvils than anyone else alive), these lugs were first added in 1892, so there are Fishers out there that don't have this feature.)

The lugs are easy to line up if your stump is undersized. Two L brackets with appropriate bolt holes can be attached to the side of the stump and accommodate the bolt well. No transfer punches needed.

 If you're going to use L brackets bolt them to your anvil THEN screw them to the block. 

Old aphorism, The easiest method that works is the better. This being a rewording of "Occams Razor."

Frosty The Lucky.

I have to disagree for this reason only: you can put a bit more tension on the bolt by screwing first. Additionally, you can screw the L brackets to the stump further down, minimizing the chance of the wood splitting or deteriorating near the top. Then again, my L brackets are not very long.

Maybe duct tape it down and forge a pair of L brackets you like? 

You're really overthinking this on a couple levels. An anvil doesn't need to be attached to the block as hard as possible, you really only want it to stay put. A couple bent nails, wrap of chain or if the smith were rich iron wire were common until smithing became a popular hobby in the mid late 1990s.

Wood screws will NOT split wood if you pre-drill the wood. Not pre-drilling results in a poor attachment. Modern screw gun screws are almost ALL self drilling. 

If you wish to cinch your anvil down tighter put a spacer between the bolts and anvil so you can take them out if you wish.

Both of my anvils just rest inside an angle iron rim, no clamps, chains, just gravity. My tong racks help wedge them in tight but not very. Being a steel tripod I don't have to do anything to silence them, just the differences between anvil and stand's resonance frequencies turn any "rinnnnng" into a clink clank that ear plugs protect from adequately. 

If it's on a wood block a small piece of 2x4 trimmed to sort of fit the curve and nailed to the block is more than enough to keep the anvil from moving AND provide plenty of resistance for hot bending in forks. 

Frosty The Lucky.

I have a cheap set of transfer punches (not a very good investment, since some are too soft to be much use).  But I was thinking more about horsing things around.  I guess if you drilled the top plate of the stand, then transferred the holes to the anvil, and then welded to the top plate to the stand, it might be workable.

Then I'd probably want tap holes that are too big to hand drill, and an anvil would tax the table on my drill press (assuming I could get it up there and secured somewhat level . . .)

Thats pretty close to the plan. I have a large mill for drilling and starting the tap straight.  Maybe use 1/2 or 3/4 bolts. I mount some of my vices and now the anvil on large school bus rear drum brake drums with a peice of 10" square thick walled tube to bring it to the correct height.  This makes these very heavy items really easy to roll around the shop, like rolling a barrel or slide.

Mike, I think that you are overthinking/over engineering this.  All you want is something to keep the anvil from bouncing or walking, that is all.  It doesn't take much to do that.  It sounds like you have a steel stand.  A thin sheet of rubber between the anvil and the stand should deaden any excessive ring and a low lip or wall should make enough of a hole that the anvil doesn't walk.  if you want to tie it down vertically you could drill or cut a few holes in the top of the stand and insert a bolt or eye bolt through to attach something to tie down the feet of the anvil.

I have a Peter Wright which has steps under the horn and heel on the base and I just have 2 lengths of angle iron over the steps which are attached to the stump I use as a stand with lag bolts.  It has worked well for many years.

"By hammer and hand all arts do stand."

Ditto George's advice Mike, keep it simple.

Tractor guy HOLY MOLY do NOT do that! Old brake drums are attractive as tool stands for, grinders, anvils, riveters, forges, etc. Unfortunately they're mostly a trip hazard. Most of these tools like a grinder or  anvil you need to be able to work close to them, I often stand with my toes under my anvil and grinders for fine work. I strongly recommend a steel tripod for anvil stands and forget the thick steel plate under it, even bolted together the join isn't solid enough to improve the anvil's working characteristics. Beyond a stand that keeps it from moving. 

An easy move but rock solid stand is a disk of steel plate 3/8" is plenty it won't flex and it's got the weight to be stable with a steel pipe welded to it for your vise, anvil, etc. stand. If you have a concrete floor you can put a thin smear of silicone calking on the bottom and wipe it almost entirely off. Let it dry BEFORE standing it back up! Unless you want it glued to the floor. The calking will keep it from sliding if you bump it with your pickup but you'll still be able to tip it up and roll it like a fuel drum.

Frosty The Lucky.

I have a wooden stand with a piece of cable and a turnbuckle holding the anvil down.  I was just imagining how I'd go about doing what tractorguy seemed to have in mind.

Good Morning, 

K.I.S.S.   Clean the bottom of the Anvil, squirt some silicone on the base/stump and settle the Anvil on top. Eazee Peezey. The silicone won't let it vibrate, so it is QUIET!!  Pardon Me, I Can't Hear You!!  LOL

Neil

Neil,

do you only use the silicone? Is there enough grab for heavy forging over the horn and heel or any lateral movement from bending in the hardy hole?

I used 2 peices of angle iron running the width of the base. Those are held down with 2 each, 4 total, turnbuckles diagonally to the center of the stand. The peices of angle make an "L" shape and are convenient shelves for punches and the like.  

On 12/5/2025 at 10:35 PM, Frosty said:

If a person wishes to bolt or screw their anvil down they need to buy a Fisher. 

As said drilling an unknown iron based material like all but the best modern anvils is a guessing game usually involving broken expensive bits. 

I was going to call BS on locktite but happily I'd just talked about how fast adhesives change and thread locking compounds being adhesives probably change just as fast.

IF a hole can be drilled Helicoils should provide as survivable a threads in cast iron, etc. as anything.

Ditto TRANSFER PUNCHES! You can usually pick them up cheap at pawn or second hand shops. take a bolt size gage along and buy the ONE punch you need unless you're going to do a lot of building in which case transfer punches are a godsend.

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Totally agree with you on Fisher anvils if you’re planning to bolt or screw one down - they’re built for it. 

A big blob of Silicone, doesn't matter what Colour. It will stay put, under any kind of abuse and rough housing.

You need to make 2 Wedges, if you ever want to replace the base. Metal or Stump, all the same.

Neil