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I Forge Iron

Its official i'm a blacksmith ( just kidding finally got started)


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Sorry i miss a post, Billy , those hooks are very cool took me a few minutes to figure out the hasp hook, its really cool. i have all my hooks on a chain on the garage door and there they will stay till i need to hang something up.

Today i did 2 things for the 1st time and learned from my mistakes but they were a success. on both projects i worked backward i think ill watch more videos and see if it was  awkward just cause it was my 1st time or i in fact did things out of order.

i made a "flux" spoon and a steak flipper.

the spoon was made out of 1/4x3/4x7-1/2  inches. i did the handle first and not sure about that i guess it doesn't even matter. i used a wood stump for a swag block not the best just beat it with a ball peen hammer to make a concave area, file rough areas and  coated with minwax. finished around 12"

the steak flipper out of 1/2" round x 12" +/- . here again i forged the hook 1st then the handle. i drew a taper to a point then made the hook, then i squared the remaining stock out square and then drew out a flat taper  curled it and folded it back on itself. did a twist in the middle section that i squared up, kind of went wonky cause it wasnt a true 3/8 and my twisting wrench didnt fit so had to used an old pipe wrench, coated with EVOO. The handle  is too short where your hand butts against the curl the hook to small finished 14" but all in all a success and a win.

thanks for the suggestions and the inspiration.

side note idk if i should continue posting my stuff here on in what did you do today.

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Edited by BoardMoreThanUsual
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Looks like you’re well on you way. I like that you put some details on your first ones! That’s a lot of material to move for a flux spoon.?I usually use 1/4” square and fagot weld about 3/4” length to get the mass for the spoon. It’s a good early forge welding project. If the weld isn’t perfect, it’s not super critical…

Save those, and keep making more. Each one will be easier and they will start getting better. When you look back at these it will be a good reminder of how you progressed. (Which from my standpoint right now, you’ll progress pretty quickly.)

Keep it fun,

David

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  • 1 month later...

Hey again all,

Been a while since I have posted, went back to work but night shift so time has been crazy to get used to.

Been going to the local artisan blacksmith meet ups and that has been informative and productive for picking up some tools. Also yard sales have good too.

A proper leg vise to replace the tongue vise and a 1x42 old rockwell/delta sander/grinder to name a few things. Had to order new wheels for the belt grinder but even with the 100 dollar cost of those wheels I am only 110 dollars into it so that's a win.

Got to forge some stuff yesterday did steak flippers again getting better than my 1st attempt. A little decrotive snake out of 3/8 square as well than I am pleased with. Still have to finish sand the flippers and season them but all and all a successful day.

Want to make some hardy tools soon if not next as it's kind of awkward hot cutting with hand held chisel for me but that will get better with more attempts I am sure. I'll post pictures of my "acquisitions" and work later today but wanted to get a post on here to let all you waiting on my every word, (joking ofcourse) that I am still trudging along on this journey.

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What? No pictures?

No really, it’s good to hear that you’re still at it. I personally haven’t been doing a much between the weather (and feeling under the weather…).

Hardie tools are fun. Of course, I like forging large stock. 
 

Keep it fun,

David

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Check with local tool rental places for worn or broken jack hammer bits. The spade bits make excellent hardies and require the minimum forging. Just remember hack hammer bits are NOT mid steel if not very high carbon dipping one in the slack tub at red heat is a B A D thing.

They're usually around 1045-1060 for impact resistance. Treat them like medium carbon and use a BIG hammer they are fun to forge. 

Frosty The Lucky.

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ok Goods you talked me into it. Honestly had to wait to post pics till i got on laptop. posting from my phone the files are to big and i dont know how to resize there, the mrs showed me how to do it on the laptop so i stick with that.

i have added so photos of the garage to show the cluster i am working in cause i dont have the focus to organize the chaos yet. i do bring the forge cart out into the drive way when actively forging as well as move the tank away so dont be concerned. i take about 10 mins to move things around before working out there the only thing that stays put is the vise/stand. i also bring the motorcycle to the street to avoid flying sparks and dust from grinding and such.

And Frosty thanks for the info. i will look into that, my neighbor works for a heavy equipment ( commercial heavy highway machines) rental shop so ill talk to him. For now i have what some one told me was what seems to be some type of axel i picked up at a yard sale for a dollar. Hoping its usable for at least beginner hardies.

 

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Axels generally make decent hardies and good bottom tools.

Nice little spread of smithing you have there. I like to leave the handles of steak flippers more open for better leverage and no tight gaps for food and gunk to be trapped in.

Frosty The Lucky.

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The extra leverage in the handle is nice if not necessary though I'd think someone living in FEASTERville would need to flip some big steaks, maybe need tow handed steak turners. 

If you want to sell steak flippers a nice looking comfortable handle is a price multiplier, especially if the lady of the house likes it. Basket twists are popular on fire tools and say a little bell in a basket twist flipper handle could be a BBQ dinner bell. 

The possibilities are limited by the imagination and practicality.

Frosty The Lucky.

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Back at it today, trying for a hardy hot cut. Sigh, ran out of three things, gas, energy and talent. Learned a bit and will be better the next go around.

Upsetting was harder than i expected, this was the thickest material i have tried to forge and it was exponentially harder , at least it seamed to be. i got mixed up on a comment here so i thought i couldn't dip the hot steel in the quench tank to isolate the heat in the bar so it would upset where i wanted. ( just read that mistake now, was for jack hammer bits not the material (possible axel) that i was using. So it will be easier next time. 

i ran into major fish mouth when i was forging the cut end but instead of starting over i just cut it off with the angle grinder and cut off wheel to salvage the hours of work i put into it. the belt grinder helped salvage the piece and i have what almost looks like a hardy I didnt heat treat or temper as i have never done that and not 100% sure i need to for this piece will do some test cuts this weekend with is and maybe attempt another on now that i saw my error with the isolating the heat.

so with out further babbling heres the pictures that you all are waiting for.

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If the material is axle, there's a good possibility that it's some form of medium carbon alloy which means it will still quench harden to a degree. That makes it pretty good as hardy material because it will be a little harder wearing but will mean you were right not to quench to isolate heat.

To be sure, cut off a few coupons to test quenching in canola oil and water and compare hardness by seeing if a file will skate over the surface or remove steel from either. A file might still remove a little material from medium carbon steel that's been quenched but it will feel different than a file really cutting into mild steel.

You're right, quenching and tempering is not really necessary for a hardy because, even in mild steel, it would still be harder than the hot steel you are cutting with it, and too long in contact with said hot steel and a quenched and tempered tool may lose temper over time anyway.

Cheers,

Jono.

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Thanks Hefty, 

I watched some videos again on ways to help my problem, also I picked up 2 used 1-1/4" jack hammer bits at a local flea market for 17 bucks, starting with thicker material will help with the need to upset, drawing out easier for me at my level of experience.  I have not given up on the axel but will need a better idea of what I am doing . I disnt get out there today a bit hot n humid here so maybe tomorrow.

Thanks again to everyone on their input ,experience  and support so far.

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Jack hammer bits are very good medium carbon steel, those will make some excellent tools, both bottom and top. However, next time go to the local tool rental place and ask what they do with their worn and broken jack hammer bits. The first place I hit sold them to me for $1 ea. The next time I dropped in to pick up more for club members wanting to make bottom and top tools the manager just gave me the bucket of 6 bits AND the bucket!

On the other hand, if you can get $8 ea. at the flee market you might want to buy a bunch at tool rentals and sell them at the flee market. Buy yourself some new tools while swapping BS with people on the "job". Hmmmm?

Frosty The Lucky.

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Frosty,

Was afraid I paid to much but figure was there saw them so paid the convience price I guess. But there is enough steel there I wont need it for a while till I atleast run into my neighbor and ask him what they do with their old stuff.

While on the topic of materials,  as I have stated before I am a Union carpenter and I am currently working a job remodeling a big box grocery store and come across something I thought would be good to grab. Not 100% sure of what type it is but pretty sure its 1" x 8" round stainless. They were the post to mount the bumper guards infront of the freezer boxes in the concrete. They mounted into stainless sleeves so aside from some discoloration and some being stuck in the sleeve they are in great shape.

I have read stainless can be forged but into what I have no idea. Grabbed 8 of them for now so what ever I can make from them I have a good start.

Any input would be appreciated. 

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Stainless can be tough to forge. I’ve used it for items that I want to be dishwasher safe. I made my son a set of saibashi (18” long chopsticks for cooking) and some fancy steak flippers for family all of which I wanted to be easy just to throw into their dishwasher. The stainless needs to be forged pretty cleanly (no crevices to retain bacteria) then passivated in citric acid to remain rust free.

1”x8” is a lot of material! I used 3” of 1-1/16” round to make 15” long steak flippers with 1” ball finials on the end.

 

Keep it fun,

David

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I don’t blame you. I have the advantage of having a power hammer! If I didn’t, I probably would have started with 1/2” square and upset the end for the finial.

If you ever make it out my way, bring that stock along, stop by and we’ll break it down to a more usable size for you.

Keep it fun,

David

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Ahhh, you did okay, I was ready to pay almost $15 for one till I noticed a bucket of them at a rental counter and asked. It's like anything, you usually start out paying a premium till you learn where to look. 

That stainless round might make decent hammers. 

Oh, and here's your daily old fart secret for the day. Just because you have a thing does NOT mean you have to use it. AND the most important part of that. Just because you don't use a thing does NOT mean you ned to get rid of it! No matter what the missus says.

Frosty The Lucky.

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  • 1 month later...

Hi All,

 Again its been a while, night shift stinks.

i got out in the garage today and wanted to try something different. (forge welding) and also make something i have not watched a video on. i am sure they are out there but i just wanted to use my brain.

An octopus,  the mrs loves them and i figured it would be a challenge. nothing to compare to just whats was in my brain.

i used only 1/4" round . forge welded 4 lengths together tied with bailing wire.  did this 2 x , then forge welded those two sets together. then folded over the end to give me more mass for the head and forge welded that as well.

Hindsight being what it is i prolly should have worked on the tentacles prior to forge welding them but i was excited to get started. that being said 1 of the tentacle cracked away but did not break off while forming.

 well here is Hector the Octopus. 

He is attached to the mrs art studio door,

 

octo1.jpg

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Not bad at all. Next time try starting with square stock, taper the tentacles and stack they 3x3 with a short piece in the center. 

A good way to make suckers is to put a series of BB size weld spots then center punch them. It's WAY easier than other methods I've seen.

You might try forging a squid, they're actually easier and the pointy head and wings make for great wall hangers. 

Frosty The Lucky.

 

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Thanks for the input guys, I really had to try forge welding. Took a couple of heats but I am glad I did it. 

Frosty I am assuming you mean spot welding with some type of electric welder.... not in my arsenal at the moment but in the future I am sure. I'll give square stock a shot next time I try it, thanks again.

On another note I picked up a makeshift coal forge off the fb sale page for 40 bucks. It is a guess a riveters forge for lack of a better term. Just a steel box bolted together with an electric blower. I have yet to use it but looking forward to trying solid fuel smithing. I'll post about it when I try and fire it up.

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