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SabreTry making a new wedge. This one looks as if it is mushroomed on the head which could cause it not to be driven deep enough. Take out the old one and use as a pattern and use a piece of leaf spring for the wedge. The spring won't muchroom as bad. Let us know how it goes. BTW, nice looking vise.

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I agree with Thomas, it looks like the wedge is mushroomed to the point it's cocking in the slot instead of spreading properly. You might be able to get away with grinding the mushrooming down so it seats properly.

Still, it's no problem making new wedges, even if all you have is a hacksaw and that nice belt sander.

The pic is the 4" Columbian I rebuilt last summer. It didn't take much, cleaning and wire brushing, a new spring, new wedges, straightened up the yoke thingy and some paint. Green and gold being my shop colors.

The new wedges are painted red and took me maybe an hour to make. The old ones didn't look as rough as yours and they didn't hold worth spit. The new ones fetch up tight as can be. Heck, I probably spent more time with the cup brush than I did making the wedges. These are mild steel as I don't figure I'll be knocking them in and out very often, maybe twice a decade so I can give it a thorough cleaning. Maybe not, we'll see.

Frosty

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Frost is that a flywheel type drill press on the floor? I have the chance to get one for 100 bucks, Do you recommend those?


It's a Buffalo #65R given to my by a friend. It came out of his Father's farm shop and when he died Gary asked his brother to pack it, the remaining bits and the wrenches up and ship it up. He even sent the square head screws and section of board it was mounted on.

I was more than delighted when Gary brought it over, it's in pristine condition without so much as a drill bit mark in the table or even a crack in the wooden handle. The paint was mostly gone so I repainted it. The red detailing is mine cause I never seem to be able to leave well enough alone. At least I didn't paint it green and gold like my other stuff. ;)

Frosty
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Hey Frosty, I have a leg vise that looks exactly like yours in the picture ('cept for the paint) do you know who the manufacturer was?


It's a 4" Columbian. It has a "C" in a diamond cast into the top side of the mounting plate and a "2" on the underside of the mounting plate.

Frosty
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Well yesterday i went to the flea market with my dad looking for a bench grinder or buffer to convet into a cutoff and ended up finding a 4.5" angle grinder for 23 bucks, then we ran across a oxy-acet set, complete with tanks,flashbacks, 2 cutting tips. 2 welding tips and a rosebud tip, also goggles an ect, the thing came with 2 half full tanks and a cart and he wanted 175 for it,we got it for $140, only prob is that 2 diff valves are broken, im either going to buy a new torch assembly or see if my dad can fix it..... Also got 2 new punches!!

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It will pay to have a professional repair the valves. This is not something to play with! $140 for the set up was an excellent deal. The 2 torches alone are worth that, look at it like you got the bottles, guages, hose, welding tips,and cart for FREE!:) Now spend a little of the money you saved and have the valves done right. Understand, I'm not knocking your dad's ability.

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Usually a welding supplier if it's an authorized service center that is will repair torches, regs, etc. for little or no charge beyond parts. Victor may still be running their exchange program for old regulators.

The idea is it's better to eat a little money than have people blowing themselves up and burning themselves out rebuilding torch sets themselves. (did I use themselves too many times there? )

Getting the screw valves to stop leaking is pretty easy if they haven't been damaged by ham fisted brutes. Simply tighten the nut below the thumb wheel a LITTLE bit, 1/4 turn is usually more than enough. This will tighten the packing gland and stop the leak in most cases. The way I do it is turn the thumb wheel while I tighten the packing nut if the wheel begins to get hard to turn I back off slightly. Then check with soapy water.

These valves are precision instruments and do NOT require a person to reef them off to shut the gas down. Reefing on them is how they get damaged, it crushes the gaskets against the seats causing deformation and cracking.

Replacing the gasket is pretty easy too but have the service center while you're having them repair or replace the thumb valve on the torch body. That one you should NOT mess with.

Good score by the way.

Frosty

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I was working on one of our wells when one of the elderly neighbors stopped by. One thing led to another and he said that he had one of those things that a blacksmith used (making a circular motion with his hand.) Did I want to see it? (Need you ask?)
He cranked it but it produced very little air. He said that it was his fathers but he would take ten dollars for it. :o I give you my word; I did not run over him when I took it to the truck.

Champion_Blower.jpg
Removed the dirt daubers nests and straightened the blades, it blows’ like brand new.
:D


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