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Tom Clark Ozark anvil


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Does anyone have any experience with these ? I'm still using the old family Hay Budden (about 180#)but when I get set up in the new building, I want to pick up a new and bigger anvil. I'd hate to be the one that does in my Great Grandaddy's anvil. It's a hard decision. I am looking at the Nimba, and the Rat-hole also but I'm leaning towards the Ozark pattern anvil. If you guys were going to throw down a couple grand for a new anvil , what would it be and why ?
Thanks,
Patrick

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Tom has an excellent anvil. I have use one and like it, just beyond my $$$. If I had the cash for that hammer with stand I seriously think I would keep saving and buy the power hammer he sales! What are you doing to the HB that you are afraid it will hurt? I do have one of his hand hammers and wouldn't take for it, also have 16-18 prs of his tongs.

Here is the link to Tom's anvil. Made of S7 but I didn't see a hardness rating.

Edited by Thomas Dean
added link
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The price is good on the euroanvils but I had a couple of people tell me they were dissapointed with theirs. They both said that they dinged the faces badly in a short amount of time even with good hammer control. I looked them up and if you click on the spec sheet it tells you right there that they are only hardned to 42-44 where most others are up around 55-60 but at least they are honest and tell you right up front. I don't know that much about the hardness scale but that seems to be the difference in euroanvils and the other good anvils out there. I know that if it's too hard the edges will chip out if you don't have good control but in my research the experts tell me that 55-60 is ideal,not too hard not too soft. My HB is in good shape but the edges are not too good any more I just want to keep it as a family momento and get a new one to do most work on.

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I have the 335 pound euroanvil and it is a good anvil for the money. I have pounded on it for a while now and have not damaged it. I have used mostly euroanvils at many of the schools I have attended. They have held up well in those circumstances also, new students. I would consider them a great VALUE pound for pound. I also consider anvils of that shape better than traditional english patterns, just my opinion. If you are going to by a new anvil I highly recommend that style versus the english pattern. If you have the money buy the Hofi anvil. That will be my next anvil REAL SOON. The shape is similar to the Euroanvil but much better thought out, smaller where it needs to be and bigger where it needs to be. They are made over seas and shipped here. The big problem right now is there is no US dealer. To have one shipped and inspected will cost about 2,500.00 for a 275 pound anvil. Not cheap but the anvil is worth it in my opinion. If you are going to use it in your business it will be a tax right-off and help with faster production which makes money.

Edited by firebug
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I have a Tom Clark
Also have
NIMBA gladiator
500 lb euroanvil
500 lb HABERMANN
Most other brands from 150 to 400 lbs
And two refflinghaus anvils ,
Anyone can tell you I LIKE ANVILS
The refflinghaus anvils are far supperior to all of the others hands down ( new or old )
But thats just my opinion.

Mike Tanner

Mike, what is it that would make you personally chose the Refflinghaus over the Ozark Patern ?
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My main shop anvil is a 275 Peddinghaus double bick with upsetting block. She's a sweetheart. I've also got a Trenton, Peter wright, and Hay-Budden all in the 125-180# range. What comes to mind is, they all produce the same product. It's not the car, it's the driver. More mass translates into a bit more rebound, but it's me, the hammer, and how much coffee (or beer) is in my system that spits the product out the door.

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Well, that page- I enjoyed it since the author seems to rank my V & B as among the finest modern anvils available. Nothing like validation of superiority to make a fellow grin. NOTE- I am more realistic than that. No one wanted it brand new at half-price. That is a more practical value assessment. I would still like to try a Delta Steel/Aluminum- don't know why-gizmosity I guess.mike

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" I don't care who you are, that there is a fine anvil"( that big double- ender)I want one of those too. It's so darn good lookin that I would display it in my living room- I'd show you a picture of the cherry coffee table of fame, with many of my finest woodworking planes on it. I use them, wipe them down with camellia and put them back. One of the good things about living single.mike

Edited by racer3j
specifying the anvil
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Thank you Philip- I was beginning to think I was the only one around here who had a V & B, or V-B). I have not yet finished my roll around/locking caster stand for it- similar to the one I did for the 100# Vulcan.( I kind of resent the bad-mouthing of Vulcans.) Yes, they are quiet. But, I can tell you that when I opened up the hardy it is somewhere around RC 58+ on the face. You can tell this anvil made things, but the edges are still very good. Eased from use but no chips or sway(aka Fishbelly). The waist weld line is without voids. The face attachment is also without voids. So, a Vulcan that has been used with respect may not reek of history like a Mousehole, PW, HB, but it is a good workaday tool.mike- SORRY- a bit manic here.m

Edited by racer3j
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