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Opinion about a Soderfors 1917 I might want to purchase


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Hello IFI,

First of all what a great source of information and found myself tumbling in a "rabbithole". I hope I found the right place for my post, but I'm sure the moderators will point me in the right direction if I'm not.

So here I'm looking for my first anvil and want to start crafting! I found this Soderfors 1917, 40kg (88lbs) for about $3,20/lbs and what I believe is a german style anvil?

Anything I need to be aware off and are the face and edges of this anvil in decent condition to get me started? As it is about an two hour drive, I'd like to hear your first impressions before I take a chance and hear the ring and try to do the rebound test.

Your input will be very much appreciated! :)

soderfors_1.png

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Welcome to the Forum, JeroenSc, glad to see you have joined.  I own two Soderfors,  an 88#, year unknown, and a 1907 157#.  40kg is 88#, so I know that is a fine weight for me.  I would probably pay too much for that anvil, given the chance, so I am glad it is too far a drive for me....... That damage on the face might help keep the price down a bit, but it would not stop me from kaufing up the dough.  That anvil would be just perfect for a lot of the work I do.

Good luck, and Welcome......

Robert Taylor

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I have a 151# Soderfors cast in 1920. Not a double horn like the one you're looking at though. I will say I love mine. Rebound is 90% and she rings like a church bell. I paid somewhere around $3.50 per lb, but it's difficult to say with certainty since I bought it with several other items. I would say the price is about right, maybe even a little less than what I would have to pay where I live.

If it were me I would definitely take a look at it in person before buying, but if the rebound was good and I liked what I saw, then I'd jump all over that deal. She's a beauty, even with the dings. Soderfors are by and large very high quality anvils and from the picture that one doesn't appear to have been abused.

Good luck!

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40kg. is a good size, especially for decorative work and I don't think you can find a better anvil than cast Swedish steel, Soderfors being a premier foundry and anvil. 

The thing to keep in mind is Soderfors anvils are pretty common on your side of the planet so DO NOT get an a hurry. More WILL be for sale, maybe not this inexpensive but cast Swedish anvils are not as expensive in your area as medium level okay anvils are over here.

Two things concern me about this one: First the dings look like dents. Second, I don't see any chips on the edges. If there is any bad thing to say about a Soderfors anvil is they tend to be a little TOO HARD so the edges chip on missed blows. They do NOT dent, they'll flatten your chisels and punches or put flat spots on your hammers but they don't dent. 

I'm thinking it might have been through a fire and lost it's temper. It's easy to test for so I'd make a 2 hr drive for that beauty at that price!

Bring a NEW single cut, (draw) file with you and give the anvil's face a stroke. The file should skate without cutting, taking nothing but dirt, rust or crud off the face. 

I LOVE my 125 lb. Soderfors, it's the best anvil I've ever used.

Frosty The Lucky.

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If you have a way to heat 88#s of steel evenly to critical temp and a large enough quench vessel to cool it fast enough then sure it's possible. I'm not sure it would be practical or economical, but you could do it. IF you had someone experienced enough with you to manage the affair.

I certainly wouldn't be able to do it.  If it's lost it's temper you're probably better off being patient and using an improvised anvil while you search for another. However,  don't worry too much, it takes a lot of heat to cause an anvil to lose it's temper so unless it's been in a structural fire or something like that it will be fine. 

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Frazer old buddy: Are you giving folks advice without a clue as to all the factors involved . . . AGAIN? If you're thinking you can quench an ANVIL by hanging it upside down in water, that does NOT work.

Jeroen: If it's lost it's temper you need to contact Soderfors and ask them who is able to and knows how to harden and temper one of their anvils. Use the telephone you aren't likely to get a response via the website's "contact" button or sending emails. Huge companies only reply to folk with tons worth type questions. 

I'd take a look give it a test and if it's softened maybe offer a little above scrap price. Explain to the owner it's been pretty well ruined as a working anvil but don't push for a lower price. Just sigh about the 2 hour drive and walk back to the car. Leave the window open until your out of shouting distance though, I get some great deals as I'm walking away.

Regardless Soderfors, Kohlswa and such are available where you live. Believe me it's well worth spending a little more money to buy a quality anvil in good condition. 

Frosty The Lucky.

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I have no idea if the process was successful or whether the occasion was just an excuse for the consumption large quantities of fermented malt beverages but I once saw a video of people heating an anvil to critical temperature in a big beach fire in California and then using logs and chains to carry it into the surf using the Pacific Ocean as a slack tub.  As I said, I don't know if this gave a hardened anvil but the process was very impressive.

"By hammer and hand all arts do stand."

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A ceramics kiln and a volunteer fire department may get the job done good enough  :D

Back when I had my shop I picked up a 306# Soderfors at a machine shop auction. The forklift driver said it was the first time he had loaded an anvil into a Cadillac trunk.  Dad had brought his 81 Caddy since what I was looking to buy that day would need a trailer, and a second trip..  Can't remember if the anvil was even listed in the advertisement. That was one of the better $200 buys I have made.

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I figure I'd rent a 2" trash pump and use Lake Jake down in the decommissioned gravel pit down the hill. I'd need a few buddies to help keep watch and drink bears while it came to temp. 

Fortunately I don't have a distempered anvil so it's just speculation based on something I read in an old Soderfors article or maybe in a book. 

Frosty The Lucky.

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Charles McRaven mentions using a volunteer fire department's high pressure hose to blast through the leidenfrost effect when heat treating an anvil repair he did, "Country Blacksmithing".

Anvil manufacturer's used to use water towers and flumes; wasn't there an entry in one of "the Book of Lists" that gave height needed vs anvil weight to have a flume work to harden an anvil?

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1 hour ago, ThomasPowers said:

Anvil manufacturer's used to use water towers and flumes; wasn't there an entry in one of "the Book of Lists" that gave height needed vs anvil weight to have a flume work to harden an anvil?

I'll have to see if I can find that issue. IIRC Soderfors' flume height allowed the water to fall something like 20' to the anvil face. I never know when I'll find a distempered anvil to save.

15 minutes ago, Chris Williams said:

I guess you would have the lifting part handled well enough! 

Naw, once drunk, a bear can't lift diddly.  

I'm always getting beer and bear crossed, some day I'll learn to just check before I post. However in the spirit of fair play. You're welcome for the typo.

Frosty The Lucky.

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On 8/20/2020 at 4:15 AM, Chris Williams said:

Drinking a drunk bear got more interesting,

You'd drink something that's already been drunk!?!:wacko: Ewwwwww!

Ford, "Hyperspace travel is a bit like being drunk."

Arthur, "What's wrong with that?"

Ford, "Ask a glass of water."

Frosty The Lucky.

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