Recommended Posts

My new anvil arrived as described with very fast shipping and excellent customer service. This is my first video and I hope this works. 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It had a clear coat on the face that looked brushed on and thick black paint every where else.

 A0135083-5436-4168-BC0C-4B6F00BA4794.thumb.jpeg.494c657ec611e0b2c460d28c3b573fb3.jpeg

I will post a bunch of pics once I learn how to reduce the size using my iPhone. 

Spent 8 hours forging and I will share my opinion with the pics. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That is a FINE Anvil. I have the 50 Kilogram (110 lbs) and I Love it. Mine rang like a bell until I straped it down to my stump. Now it is a pleasure to work with. Have had no complants at all with my Kanka Anvil. 

You will enjoy that fine anvil and be able to pass it down when the time comes.

PS. Nice to see that your packing crate made it to you in 1 piece. My packing crate did not survive the trip, but, it is an anvil, like a little pit of wood is going to do much.

PicsArt_03-04-07.23.48.jpg

PicsArt_03-04-07.25.50.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Right on Moose

So I took a wire brush to the face and it removed the clear no problem but the paint was very stubborn. a few passes with a worn 80 grit flap worked pretty good. 

The bottom had the same coat of black paint but was machined dead flat 

1A1C8A3B-067F-4027-B464-8C59C7C462BD.jpeg.30a50083982e86e808a0fd8313872491.jpeg

the sides also appear machined at least at the weld

6215BDA6-A3E5-4FD6-B35E-8B46AD255F62.jpeg.6c480472d2e0181d62ebed460e7f66e1.jpeg

CDC9BD0D-2DCC-437B-A3E0-0D9C6458DCF5.jpeg.c449fb0a904c2fc6453bf5cec47ede26.jpeg

And then I lit the forge!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I spent 8 hours forging, several hours with the family and I had 2 sons in law, a daughter in law and my 11 year old all forging too. Other than a couple of minute scratches, there is not  a mark on it and the face feels like glass

needless to say I am very happy with it but must confess that I have nothing to gauge it on as I have never struck another anvil save my old Vulcan and my improvised mild steel chunk. I wish I could give an objective opinion but my subjective one is that I love and as Mr. Moose said, I hope to pass this on to my grandkids some time. Not until I give it a work out!

Theese pics were taken after 8 hours of forging

3BC376E8-713A-40A5-BDD6-0F05E79DD8D9.jpeg.44ccfb88246e2ad91169964f92544b9e.jpeg

98D448A9-BB0E-4700-9843-CAB7F2941EF7.jpeg.7e4f424204f3a3f21e793d0187213ca2.jpeg

341ACD55-C094-4B77-8ADE-C9C45FEA5950.jpeg.b765aadca5ec5c83621dbc5a284f09f3.jpeg

778A25DF-B7CC-4392-8127-BEBF6F7A7157.jpeg.3c77c7e40f258c0e4782dfbf901d5814.jpeg

If I had a gripe it would be that the horn is a little blunt....

68B02004-CDD9-450A-B7B3-2B22B28FE960.jpeg.56ea578f75474c77ccce3b1755c27bcb.jpeg

Thanks for looking and I will update in a month or so snd let you know what I think then

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ayup, that's a pretty anvil all right. I'll keep an eye out for your opinion using it.

Frosty The Lucky.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks fellas. What I want to make first is a hold down but the pritchell is yuge!

Just a little info for those that care: I chose this anvil mainly due to cost and I wanted a forged anvil for no real reason other than my perception. I know that modern cast anvils are probably as good or better but I narrowed it down to the ridgid and the kanca.

Both were almost exactly the same price delivered but I have heard rumors of recent QC issues at ridgid and the fact that they were back ordered sealed the deal and drove me to the Kanca. 

There are surprisingly few reviews or images out there of this anvi and that is why I made this video and post but mostly to show off !

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hold fasts are good basic projects and you get to use a tool you made with your own hands. Hard to beet the feeling you know.

Hold fasts don't hold by fitting the hole, they cock and jam when set with a hammer. The pad on the end of the arm has a lot of leverage cocking the shaft in the hole. (whatever hole you use) The arm is also a spring keeping pressure on both the work and shank cocked in the hole. It doesn't need to be spring steel, mild works fine just do't get carried away setting it.

Make the shank long enough to go all the way through the heel so you can tap it on the end with a hammer to release it. It's rare to need to tap the shank's end though, usually you tap the shank behind the arm near the top. 

I use a few, one round foot that reaches nearly to the anvil's sweet spot. I use this one for projects over the edge. I have another with a foot offset so I can work long stock. I have another offset hold fast that has an arm that's close to the pritchel hole and I rarely use it. The ones with the foot centered over the hardy hole are good for holding stock in a swage. 

Spring steel makes good hold fasts but you can seriously jam them in the  hole. :huh: No heat treat necessary, I cool them a LITTLE faster than for normalizing, I have a large block of aluminum that makes a nice chill block. 

Frosty The Lucky.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

One early comment is more mounting related. When I first set it on the stand it rang so loud and sharp that it literally hurt your ears. After researching this forum I set it in a bed of silicon, stuck a $4 HF magnet on the horn, strapped it down and the sound was amazingly dulled!  

Listen to the short before and after videos. To get the real effect, put on your headphones and crank the volume but it doesnt do it justice. 

 

 

Not only is it quiet to work on but the silicon has made it one with the stand and it rock solid and doesnt move at all. Very happy with the mount

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

How is your hardy hole? I have the same anvil and my hardy hole looks like it was cut maybe with water?? It is kinda ragged and one corner has a cut where they went a bit to far. What can I use to clean up the hardy hole or is it fine the way it is? I bought a cut off for the hardy but it dosn't fit well. I am brand new to all of this so not sure if that s normal. Should I grind the shank of the cut off to fit better and or work on putting a chamfer on the hardy hole itself?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What can you use to clean up the hardy hole: Broach, wire EDM, cape chisel, abrasive paper, file, laser, water jet cutter, abrasive stones; perhaps you can tell us what you have available to you?

Fitting tooling to your anvil usually has to be done especially on 100+ year old ones...some of them can have very odd shapes indeed since they were hot punched!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My hole is very square but narrows down a tiny bit (+/-1mm) about a 1/2” below the face and is straight from there. Maybe a product of heat treat?  My 1 hardy tool with a 1” shank had to be graound a bit to fit but that was expected, Kanca lists the hole at 23mm  

I put a little file in it just for fun and boy is the face hard around the hole!

funny that, I have  been filing some radii in the edges and the hardy hole and one side of the square horn seem harder than the rest of the edge. Could be anomolies in heat treat ??  but probably me

Have fun

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The tapering of the hole is typical..   The Peddinghaus is a crap show on the hole..  It is drilled and broached on this version and it doesn't go all the way through on one corner.. 

It looks like when they drilled it the drill bit wasn't long enough with it just kind of peaking through as a drill does when do short.. So they turned it over and the drill bit spun out tearing the rest of the metal as they do when coming in from the other side.. 
 

Love the video by the way..  and it is very quite now.. Wow.. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My Mousehole (aka The Undisputed King of Anvils) went through a similar transition when I siliconed it down onto its metal base: it's not just a reduction in volume, but also in pitch. In other words, the higher frequencies that ring so painfully (and that sustain for so long) are muted by the silicone and the magnet, so the high pitches that are most damaging to the hearing are significantly reduced.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks all. 

When I unboxed it I was truley alarmed at the noise it made and wondered if I made a mistake. It was advice from fine members of this site that makes a real joy to work on. Its no more loud than my vulcan except at the very end of the horns

so far, no regrets.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Gee, whodathunkit hitting an anvil is noisy! :o It IS a surprise when you're standing right there and the neighbor's place is just over there isn't it?

Frosty The Lucky.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.