Zrognak Posted August 16, 2018 Share Posted August 16, 2018 I been looking around on the forums and on google but cant find anything, only found about hand held chainsaw bars and what they are composed of, so if there is another thread on the forums or a list of possible types of steel that are used for the chainsaw bars from forest harvesters I would love to know, it is cause I got a huge amount of them to use for practice and thought it would be nice to know how to heat treat the steel if I do feel like forging something out of a piece. Sorry if there is already a thread about this but cant find anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGGUNDOCTOR Posted August 16, 2018 Share Posted August 16, 2018 Try contacting the manufacturer, they often times will tell you when they hear what you are doing with them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLAG Posted August 16, 2018 Share Posted August 16, 2018 Mr. Zrognak, Could you take said chainsaw bar, (one of them) to the nearest metallurgy or materials science department. Politely inform them that you are a poor starving blacksmith and need a favor (real bad). Then ask them to run a portion of same to a mass spectrometer. The request is strange enough that they may do it gratis. That strategy avoids the real strenuous labor of running spark test or sniff test. Just trying to help some. Regards, SLAG. Does Forestry Harvesters have a European, office? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kozzy Posted August 16, 2018 Share Posted August 16, 2018 My local scrap yard will use their XRF gun for a one-off test without much whining if you are nice to them. That kind of thing is probably the easiest way to get a definitive answer. I work with a local shop that makes those big and heavy bars for the forestry industry in the USA--mostly via water jet cutting of a very tough material (can't think of the grade number off the top of my head) that would not really be suitable for much forging. Lots of manganese in it which would make forging a real workout--stuff you have to always work extremely hot to avoid cracks. Can't say if yours are even close to the same though as the makers of such things all claim theirs are "special" relative to the others. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLAG Posted August 16, 2018 Share Posted August 16, 2018 Kozzy, X-ray fluorescence. ( XRF) That is the technology I meant. Thanks, SLAG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted August 16, 2018 Share Posted August 16, 2018 Also spark spectrometer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zrognak Posted August 18, 2018 Author Share Posted August 18, 2018 I forgot Im moving away to a apartment to attend silversmithing school in a few days so I wont have access to my shop, but Ill dig into this next summer when I get home. Thank you all for your info it has been most helpful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted August 18, 2018 Share Posted August 18, 2018 Enjoy the class. Remember, don't beat the black silver! Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zrognak Posted August 18, 2018 Author Share Posted August 18, 2018 Sure will thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sells Posted August 18, 2018 Share Posted August 18, 2018 Actually you need to beat silver when it is black not red.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLAG Posted August 18, 2018 Share Posted August 18, 2018 Zrognak, Best wishes and success in your, up-coming, silver smith course. SLAG. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zrognak Posted August 19, 2018 Author Share Posted August 19, 2018 12 hours ago, Steve Sells said: Actually you need to beat silver when it is black not red.... We probably wont be doing much heating of the silver unless we are casting or annealing it, but that is good info thank you. 9 hours ago, SLAG said: Best wishes and success in your, up-coming, silver smith course. Thank you good sir. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hans Richter Posted August 19, 2018 Share Posted August 19, 2018 As possible extra information regarding the element measuring with XRF or spark-spectrometer I can tell you from my own experience, that most of the affordable XRF’s can tell you only the appearance and percentage of metals in the samples (the most important thing for the owner of the scrapyard) . In relation with the spark-spectrometer, how also tell you the percentage of the other elements like phosphor, sulphur, nitrogen and hydrogen. All the nasty stuff made your workpiece crack, brittle and/or able to (forge)weld (C). Cheers, Hans Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zrognak Posted August 19, 2018 Author Share Posted August 19, 2018 Just a side note for those who are curious, I have tested a small piece and it is not hard to forge feels like a spring steel or maybe a tool steel seems to harden as tool steel does cause I could make a engraving tool out of it that held an edge pretty good, the grain structure without any forging just hardening is a super smooth grey, so smooth in fact its similar to a drill bit if broken (not carbide but normal ones) but I will have to do more testing in a year when I get home. 2 hours ago, Hans Richter said: As possible extra information. Thank you for the info good sir. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted August 20, 2018 Share Posted August 20, 2018 Actually I prefer to forge silver hot; especially fine silver; works beautifully! (but you will only see it red in an unlighted room, any light and it melts about the time you can see it glowing.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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