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I Forge Iron

Where to hammer?


dothacker

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I have a problem: I live in the city and my usual hammering place is gone, it was a spot in the forest. It isn't gone per se but more people show up and the noise creates alot of attention I don't want. I am looking for ideas on a new place to hammer. I am up for ideas on soundproofing my garage (for cold working steel only so as not to burn down the house). I would rather hold off on hot working right now until I get someplace better.

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I will not get into where you can end up by working cold steel other than to say it is warm. (grin).

Anything that absorbs sound is good, anything that reflects sound is not so good. Hard walls, flat surfaces, etc will reflect sound where carpeted walls absorbs sound. I doubt that you can make it sound proof but you you should be able to reduce the sound to below that of the neighbors lawnmower or circular saw at the same distance.

BP0320 Stop the Anvil's Ring
may give you some ideas on how to tone things down.

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Depending on the size of your stock, heating in a propane forge will actually be quieter as you will not have to hit it as hard to move the same volume of metal....

Old mattresses make excellent sound baffles and Goodwill or a motel/hotel may have some they are throwing out....

Another way is to look at items that can be bent cold, such as courting candles....

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If you are using a quiet anvil the sound of hammering isn't that much. A lot quieter than a leaf blower or lawn mower or table saw or router or other common noisemakers---you might even be able to have a TV on to "cover the noise" (WEAR YOUR HEARING PROTECTORS!).

It also helps to get to know your neighbors and work with them---if they have a baby that takes a nap at 2 pm; well 2pm would be a good time to take a break from making noise etc

I spent over 14 years in the city center in Columbus OH with houses about 4' apart and hobby forged with no sound issues, coal smoke OTOH was a problem.

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Well, the thing is, the forging is for later but metalwork in general can be best done in my garage but like most garages it is composed of cement, drywall and other hard materials. I don't have an anvil, I will be using a hammer, a chunk of steel and perhaps a chunk of wood if I can. I will admit that I am 17, though that may degrade your opinion on my person, so I cannot go and grab mattresses or buy much material for this. Is there a way of stacking multiple layers of cardboard to use as a miniwall around the work area? I have heard of such a thing being used to keep tumblers and small machines quiet, I am curious if it can be adapted.

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there are a few smith's here younger than you, if Anyone gives you a hard time Becaue of your age, let Glenn know, He knows how to deal with idiots, as we were all young once, its because someone older took the time to teach us, that we are smithing today.

Now... remember that giving you a hard time for not listening or being dangerous is allowed :D and should be expected

OK back to the real issue, 17, meaning you don't own or have any real control over th garage. To address some of the issues with sound sound, USe Egg crates ( left over from the eggs you ate for breakfast ) have been used for years as cheap sound defusers, just tape/glue/staple them together in strips, mounting them on a old sheet is a good idea too. Hang them on the walls like a curtain when you need them, they only adsorb high pitched sounds, BUT they cut down on the sound reflections, making it quieter outside the room, and inside the house too. carpet does not have to cover all the surfaces, even a small piece here and there will help deaden the room too.

The low frequency can only be delt with by Mass, meaning sand filled, very thick walls, and true sound proofing is NOT cost effective for most people.

Work with what you can, Hook up with local smiths is always a help, many have open forge times for you to go and use the groups equipment too.

Welcome to the insanity of Metal working.

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a chunk of steel


And what exactly do you think an anvil is? ;) You have a hammer; all you need now is something to hit (steel/iron) and something to get it hot. The first anvils were rocks, the first hammers smaller rocks. I'd say you are quite ahead of the game compared with some ancient smiths ;)
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Thanks, and I don't plan on not listening or doing dangerous things so that won't be an issue. ;) Great idea about egg cartons! I bet I could staple some egg cartons onto cardboard panels and use the panels as a quick way to setup and take down my workspace. Going to need to eat alot of eggs hehe. so hanging a simple curtain of cloth will help deaden the sounds by a small amount? I will see if we have old sheets somewhere. I'm guessing the general theory here is the more material between you and the outside the better as well as many protrusions from the walls as possible. Thanks again, don't suppose you know of any smiths near? I believe there is one in the Hancock Shaker Village a few miles away but I have no idea how to contact him.

Matt, by anvil I mean anvil shaped steel block. ;) I know that ancient smiths used rocks because I had done some research with Japan once. Some actually still use them! :o Also, I keep saying I am more worried about cold working than hot at the moment.

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when I was younger and played guitar I had half stack amplifier that I quieted down with old carpeting I found. if you could rig up curtains with carpeting or heavy painters drop cloths around your work area it would greatly reduce the noise level. multiple curtain levels with space between them would help also.

here is a couple pictures of my anvil stand I just made. my anvil rang VERY loudly before mounting it. its truely amazing the difference.....although hammering out on the horn and on the tail is alot louder its at a reasonable level. I might try a layer of silicone calking under the anvil at a later time. I just wanted to try it out and didnt want to wait to run out and get a tube of calking until I knew I needed it. (I'm still undecided if I need it or not)

depending on the block of steel your using as an anvil, it could possibly be drilled and tapped for an eye bolt to chain it down to a stump or maybe tabs welded on to lag bolt it to a stump. that should quiet things also.

6084.attach

6085.attach

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Hancock Shaker Village

Hancock Shaker Village
1843 W. Housatonic St.
Pittsfield, MA 01201
(proceed to parking lot approx. 1/2 mile further west on Rt. 20)

Sat. May 3 2008
Heritage Metal Festival, 4th Annual
Connecticut Eastern Railroad Museum, Bridge St, Willimantic, Ct, 9am-5pm,
A Day of Metalsmithing Demonstrations, including Blacksmithing, Pewtersmithing, Engraving, and Others.
For more information: Connecticut Eastern Railroad Museum


August 16 &17, 2008
Hancock Shaker Village 15th Annual Age of Iron Weekend
Come see the iron men and women who demonstrate the art of blacksmithing and metal work. Forges and workshops will be set up around the historic Village for family activities and opportunities for you to try your hand at being the "Village 'Smithy". Co-sponsored with the Berkshire Blacksmith's Association.

Atlantic Coast Blacksmith Conference
The Ashokan Center, Olivebridge, NY
September 4,5,6 & 7, 2008

GS0003 Blacksmithing Groups
I do not see anything listed in Ma. but there are folks on the site from that area that could help you locate something.

Connecticut Blacksmith's Guild

Two events in your town, the one in NY maybe a bit of a drive.
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SLOB: Thanks for the ideas. My "anvil" is a 8" x 3" x 1" block of steel with 4 1/4-20 holes tapped in it.

Thanks for the info Glenn, but I was kind of hoping for more contact info, there is none on the site, maybe so I could confer with the smith by email. There is an admission fee and I don't want to waste a trip because of the fee as well as the distance and time it would take if you know what I mean.

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for armor work you might think about some type of press.... If you have axcess to welder you can make some type of press useing a bottle jack .. for dies you can use wood for bottom die and various ball dies for top die (traler hitch ball and possably shotput ball ) it would be practically noiseless and is a quick and accurate way to move metal .. if you have metal shop try turning top and bottom dies of various diameters .. I had a friend that made armor for a liveing this way .. havn't seen him in years but I remember his setup it worked well and left the armor tough also (work hardened) I am kinda reading between the lines as you said cold working and hammering I figured armor... anyway good luck !

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A press eh? I am a machinist and possess all the tools and machinery to make something like that during shop hours. Do you have a rough sketch? I'm not quite grasping the concept of the dies you talk about. Yes, this is about armor mostly with a few other sheetmetal misc. items mixed in. :) If you can suggest shapes and sizes for dies I will try my hand at making a few and we will see. The noiseless part intrigues me highly.

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Armor?

Having made many elbow and knee cops using only a stump and a wooden mallet, the sound is much less... Depending on the stock used, your machinest tools would make more noise.... When it get to the rivet stage, some of the critical joints were steel, but the straps were held on with Tandy 2 piece rivets.... almost silent...

Much of this was done outside (and occasionally inside) barracks around the world.... ;-)

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My tools are in a shop, my armoring/forging will be at my home. I cannot armor at the shop as the hours are limited and they would not appreciate it (OSHA and other safety things as well could be a problem in the shop). I know the general idea of a press but I have no idea what kind of shapes would work for what. A quick M$ paint rough draft of dies would be nice if anyone cares to make one. I'm guessing a ball with a same sized ball depression in the bottom is one, and perhaps a bar with a bar size cut out would make flutes? I've never really used a press, occasionally we use one in shop but it's not for things like this.

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  • 1 month later...

dothacker, IMHO, not having a "proper" anvil will help you learn more in the long run. As for the noise, is there someway you can fasten/tie/strap down you anvil? I use a very thin sheet of rubber underneath my anvils and also under the holddowns. The stands I made are steel. For my light anvil, I have bolted a couple of lead plates to the leg braces to increase the " weight" of the anvil and it also helps deaden the sound. If you go with the egg crate idea, see if you can get the egg holders from a restaurant. They are bigger than the regular food store ones and you can get them for free.

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On sound dampening....

Best to use combinations of hard and soft materials (carpet/foam/carpet) to insulate and trap the sound....

Windows are prime areas for sound transmissions so some extra insulation would be best (but make it moveable so you can open them for ventilation in between sessions)....

One method that has been used in the past for a garage setup was an carpet/mattress/carpet insulation that hung from hooks along the walls/windows/doors.... deadened the noise, but made it very hot inside.... extra fans were brought in as well as extra water during sessions.....

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