Rustproofing tuyere and bosh?

[JHCC]

I'm playing around with some ideas for a water-cooled side-blast tuyere, and a thought occurs to me: has anyone here ever experimented with some kind of heat-resistant rustproofing/sealant that will improve the life of the tuyere and bosh? We had a recent thread that mentioned adding antifreeze to keep the water from freezing in the Maine winters; would that have the desired effect?

[Daswulf]

Coolant in the water is not going to rust proof or seal the system. 

 

[JHCC]

Noted. It does have rust-inhibiting properties though, yes?

(NB: I am obviously not a car guy.)

[Daswulf]

POR15 might make a good rust proofing and sealant but I'm not sure the temperatures it can handle. I have a can in the shop I'll try to look. Also engine paint ( I prefer Duplicolor over other brands due to the spray ability and durability) should hold up.  I'm not "absolutely" sure how either holds up in Constant contact ( read submerged) in coolant. 

[JHCC]

I'm thinking that a completely rustproofed interior is probably overkill (even if achievable), and that if my welds don't leak in the first place, any rust-inhibiting effect of the coolant  will probably be sufficient. 

[Daswulf]

rust inhibiting yes, sort of. But it brakes down over time and use. I'm just not sure it would be enough on its own. And certainly not sealing. Just for sealing they make high temp silicon for joints. But that doesn't help with rust proofing the rest. 

[JHCC]

I've read Mark Aspery quoted as saying that a welded steel tuyere and bosh should last about seven years under normal use. If the coolant inhibits the rust enough to extend that even by half, I'm cool.

[Daswulf]

We're it me making one I would seal the joints lightly with high temp sealant then paint the interior and exterior with engine paint or por15 and still use a coolant/antifreeze. 

( or just build it from stainless steel but that's not the question here. ) 

i know that other post mentioned covering the tank to prevent junk from getting in. How about additional protection and adding a screen to the water inlet for the bosh? 

And don't forget to dog-proof it! You do not want them ingesting coolant. 

[Frosty]

Paint the interior with an acid etch epoxy? Heck rhino liner will take boiling water easy. 

The only really vulnerable place I see on a bosh is the tuyere nozzle at the fire. I'm thinking plumbing pipe water jacket to a final close nipple and bell reducer nozzle. 

For final protection of the water jacketed tuyere a coat of clay or castable refractory keeps the fire off it. When the nozzle burns beyond use unscrew it and replace it. If the close nipple comes with it replace it.

Okay, that's my brain exhibiting the Dunning and Krugger effect. I've never even used a side blast with a bosh, just a piece of pipe and 12v. mattress inflater. I'll go back to reading now. 

Frosty The Lucky.

[Lou L]

I was just thinking on this very problem and did some searching.  I found that some of the rubber based sealants like Flex Seal are rated to temperatures of 350 degrees.  My water cooling tank never even boils.  I'm considering trying it out.

[Tommytaptap]

I think if you filled the untreated, clean steel tank with plain water, left it 24 hrs and drain it then, when its dry coat it with a steel rust prevention coating. When that's dry use heat resistant silicone pumped on and spread out all over the inside of the tuyere, that would not only seal the container from leaks, it would prevent corrosion. Heat on the water side wont ever be a problem and the solution for the nozzle is well covered by Frosty.

[JHCC]

17 minutes ago, Frosty said:

Dunning and Krugger effect

“Dunning-Kruger”. 

[ThomasPowers]

No "Dunwich Horror and Freddy Krueger"----playing the fish slapping game to see who gets first dibs on your id tonight! (Based on Monty Python's fish slapping dance of course...)

[BIGGUNDOCTOR]

I run antifreeze in my TIG radiator and it keeps the system rust free. The tank had a hole that I had to weld up that was caused from running straight water.

 

At work we had a large automated heated cleaning tank sprayed with truck bed liner to seal it up. It was either Line-X or Rhino. Held up great.

[JRich]

Engine block or caliper paint. It is meant for use on steel/iron, and is often rated over 1000°F. 

[Lou L]

Will that paint be applicable on my tank that already has rust damage?

[Daswulf]

POR15 claims it can go over rust after wire brushing the loose stuff loose. 

In all honesty I've never used it on anything submerged in water but it works well on vehicle frames and claims to be for marine use as well. 

[Marc1]

i don't know how your side blast cooling system is designed, but if it is a closed circuit that reuses the same water over and over, the oxygen that is in solution in said water, will eventually go and the water will no longer rust the steel.

But if you are worried why not making it stainless? All you need is stainless 400 series. 

[Lou L]

The water tank for a side blast/water cooled tuyere is basically just an open tank.  It is not a closed system.  I was concerned that antifreeze would evaporate out and did not bother adding it.  I would love to make my next one out of stainless steel; however, I would likely fail in my attempts to weld that box up.  I know nothing about welding stainless.  I've been keeping my eyes open looking for a stainless bosh pre made and have considered ways to convert an old sink.