GrumpyBiker Posted August 16, 2017 Share Posted August 16, 2017 Test fired my stainless mini mongo Burner for the first time today. At 8psi I got this.... The first row of air inlets are completely blocked off. When both were open it huffed constantly. At 10psi I got this flame. The stainless flair / tip got red hot real quick. This is how far below the choke collar the tip is set. The line is indicating the top of the collar position when I took the photos. I've never used a burner before is this setup & positioning of the jet good to go? anything thing look wrong or more importantly, dangerous? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jclonts82 Posted August 16, 2017 Share Posted August 16, 2017 (edited) I have a burner very similar to this one, and I found that burning in open air is vastly different than in the forge itself. Inside the forge there is back-pressure from the expanding gasses as they burn, which changes the fluid dynamics and thermodynamics of the gas mixing and combustion. What I did: *The best way I found to tune the amount air to let in was to light it up at evening/night, and let the inside of the forge get to temperature, adding or subtracting air as needed so it stays lit without huffing. *Then adjust the psi to get about the temperature you will be wanting to work at, takes time and getting used to it, just give it a try. *Then adjust the air inlets to fine tune, judging the flame exiting the forge. There are plenty of pictures and videos of 'dragons breath' online. What I have gone with is that if there is some yellow flame exiting the forge(vigorously dancing, 4-8" long), then the flame is seeking out oxygen to burn, meaning there is little to none left in the forge itself. This a good/desired thing in most cases. Now if the flame is too long/not a vigorous dancing flame, looks more like a camp fire, then you are just wasting fuel and not getting any benefit. I'm not knowledgeable enough to know if there is a harm to forging this (too fuel rich) way, that's just what I could make sense of with my understanding. video of mine burning very rich, I wanted to me sure on setting a pattern weld, so I ran it rich. slow mo for a bonus Edited August 16, 2017 by Jclonts82 add file Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted August 16, 2017 Share Posted August 16, 2017 Mikey's the guy to tell you more about the Mongo than Rex can. I'm sure he'll be along shortly. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrumpyBiker Posted August 17, 2017 Author Share Posted August 17, 2017 Which "Rex " are we referring to ?!?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted August 17, 2017 Share Posted August 17, 2017 On 8/16/2017 at 5:19 PM, Frosty said: Mikey's the guy to tell you more about the Mongo than Rex can. I'm sure he'll be along shortly. Actually, blacksmith450 has proven to know more about Mongo burners than I do What I can see from the flame photos, is steady improvement, just like blacksmith 450 had with his burners; all the more reason to ask him to take over this discussion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Latticino Posted August 17, 2017 Share Posted August 17, 2017 What happens when you modulate the air intake by covering the inlet holes from the "back" of the burner first rather than the "front" as you have been doing? My understanding is that the shroud may be too effective so close to the fuel orifice to allow you to tune it with the relatively gross adjustments that the slip joint allows. By this I mean that a relatively small change will have a large effect on the mixture proportion. Might be easier to tune if you go in the opposite direction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrumpyBiker Posted August 17, 2017 Author Share Posted August 17, 2017 Here's a short clip I uploaded to YouTube. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blacksmith-450 Posted August 17, 2017 Share Posted August 17, 2017 4 hours ago, Mikey98118 said: Actually, blacksmith450 has proven to know more about Mongo burners than I do ... all the more reason to ask him to take over this discussion. It's in those moments that I would like to write in french.... I'll be back in a few hours/days... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted August 18, 2017 Share Posted August 18, 2017 Then write in French AND also post the English translation so we can follow the discussion. It may not be perfect but it will work. Ensuite, écris la traduction en français afin que nous puissions suivre la discussion. Ce n'est peut-être pas parfait, mais cela fonctionnera. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted August 18, 2017 Share Posted August 18, 2017 Please do, I'll make a Franco File on my computer and save your posts. That'll be cool. Eh? Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blacksmith-450 Posted August 18, 2017 Share Posted August 18, 2017 GrumpyBiker, your burner is different from the Mongo that I built mainly at the level of the air intake which is larger than mine. That's why you have to adjust your choke to reach an acceptable flame. That's the main issue. My burner is very simple with only 4 x 1/2 holes. At first I had made 3/8 holes of but it was clearly too rich. I switched to 1/2 and playing with the position of the Mig Tip, I got a neutral flame. I welded everything in place. For the flare, the bell reducer gives me an adequate result,... it does not come red too quickly and its thickness will ensure that it will last long enough. To replace it, I just need to unscrew it. The last pictures of your serie and the video seem ok to me. Your burner releases a lot of heat and a photo taken in the dark with a flash will give you a better idea of its true color. BTW, I'm not an expert ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted August 19, 2017 Share Posted August 19, 2017 But you will be; welcome to the hot seat; none of us ever intended to end up here, but we're always glad to see a fellow traveler Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted August 20, 2017 Share Posted August 20, 2017 On 8/18/2017 at 5:32 AM, blacksmith-450 said: GrumpyBiker, your burner is different from the Mongo that I built mainly at the level of the air intake which is larger than mine. That's why you have to adjust your choke to reach an acceptable flame. That's the main issue. My burner is very simple with only 4 x 1/2 holes. At first I had made 3/8 holes of but it was clearly too rich. I switched to 1/2 and playing with the position of the Mig Tip, I got a neutral flame. I welded everything in place. For the flare, the bell reducer gives me an adequate result,... it does not come red too quickly and its thickness will ensure that it will last long enough. To replace it, I just need to unscrew it. The last pictures of your serie and the video seem ok to me. Your burner releases a lot of heat and a photo taken in the dark with a flash will give you a better idea of its true color. BTW, I'm not an expert ! Oh yeah you are. Your reply is clear, concise and makes good sense. I dub you. Burner Ben, mongo guru! Say THAT fast! A trick I use to keep thread protector "flare" analogues from burning right up is dipping them in clay slip, what's left of my kaolin from my first attempts to make my own refractory. Anyway, the stuff dries in the threads and the thread protectors don't burn up for quite a while. Without the clay they last half a dozen or so sessions before they start to come apart and need replacing. With the dip in clay the current batch have lasted years, hundreds of sessions. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted August 20, 2017 Share Posted August 20, 2017 "Mongo Ben" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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