Just finished my striking anvil.  The leg tabs are for wrapping chain for weight.  May put on some loops to hold a sledge hammer.

How did you make the hole?

Can't be stealing Jerrys Thunder!

No worry the Kodiaks don't fit in a flat rate box...

Don't worry boys my thunder regenerates itself after I eat. Drop by for a snort. 

About the chain hanger tabs on the stand. They look like shin barkers to me. Of course my shins have a talent for banging into things.

Frosty The Lucky.

A box of skeeters, black flies. And bull nags would be just about as bad!

Duplicating the unfunctionality of the anvil's horn only much lower?  If I wanted to quiet that assembly I'd first try dry sand with a bit of non-detergent oil in the legs.

I assumed the chain was to stop the whole stand from walking based on the "for weight"  portion in the post. But i'm also interested in the sound that would make

hang bells on the chain?

For basic big hammer work I'd absolutely love to own that anvil.  Thanks the for the ideas.   I found my striking anvil in one solid chunk of steel at my steel supply place, only it has no hardy hole in it.  The reality is that I have no room for it anyway until I get my new shed...so I'm not rushing.

Great looking striking anvil,

You might want to consider welding the chain hanger tabs on the inside of the legs. That would save Frosty from barking his shins. (he is an invaluable asset to I.F.I., & we should strive to keep him in good shape). Welding the tabs at a descending  angle to the legs would help keep the chain pulling off the leg.

SLAG

I like it. Good job. Don't like the leg tabs for previously stated reasons. You could weld on bigger feet and bolt or stake them down. I put a pritchel hole in mine and use a dial a hole for drifting. I pretty much drift on my striking anvil only.

Seriously, though, the chain-holding tabs are unnecessary. If the chain is sufficiently snug around the legs, their flare will keep it from sliding down.

I did not know it mattered?

Thanks for the comments.  The legs are filled with misc. bolts and screws (for weight), the tabs will not cause leg (shin) injury and more than everything else in the shop that sticks out, and the legs won't be bolted down because 1)  I'm not sure exactly where in the shop I want the striking anvil, and 2) the shop has a new concrete floor and I'm not about to poke holes in it.  The hole in the anvil came from the fellow who supplied it (actually 2 plates, welded together) and I can't remember his name.  I will keep trying to remember same and pass it along.

Im building a striking anvil now.  I w

Have the 2 inch plate with the hardy hole in it and the a plate that is 1 inch thick.  My question is, would that be enough or ahould i put another 1 inch plate under the 2 incher?  I only want to build it once so if it needs that plate let me know.

Since you are forging anchors you need to put several pieces of plate under it.  Since you will be forging hand hammers that will do fine. Since you will be forging folding knives that is heavier than you need. Pick one---or give us enough information to answer the question appropriately.

(I'm currently reading Turtledove's "Guns of the South" and they just gave Lee some nitro pills...)

You could have just asked what i wanted to make.  I would have answered hammers and tooling for the craft.  

Thanks.

You could have provided needed information in your original question too. When asking people for help it behooves one to make it as easy as possible for them to do so correctly.  If you decide that my manner is not to your taste there is a way to add people to your ignore list and not have to see any of their posts again.

Im not an ice cold beer.  I cant make everyone happy.  

The more i think about this topic i wo der more and more what would you need to forge an anchor? Thomas could you help here?

16 minutes ago, Nitroheadache said:

The more i think about this topic i wo der more and more what would you need to forge an anchor?

Depends on the size of the anchor.

1 hour ago, Nitroheadache said:

Im not an ice cold beer. I cant make everyone happy.  

Some beers are best drunk at room or cellar temperature anyway. 

However, you will have a lot more success getting the information you need if you ask the right questions. Please remember: as fantastically intelligent as we all are, we can't read your mind. ThomasPowers likes to play around with this a bit, but his essential point is solid: without knowing key information about what you want to do, we cannot answer your question. 

So please, ask detailed questions! 

May I commend to your attention: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rZQMYaPMpM8

Bruce Wuilcock and crew forging a "small" anchor.  He told us that he tried to do at least one big project a year like he used to do all the time...

Thanks for answering my question tom. I have another question for you.  Would an additional 30 lbs make a differwnce when forging hammers on the striking anvil? Do you have a striking anvil?

What beer is good to drink at room temp?  I had some fosters warm in Afghanistan but that was because we didnt have a fridge. Itwas the best and worst beer i have ever had.

The more mass a striking anvil has the better, *but* it needs to be as monolithic as possible so you don't lose energy in the interfaces. My striking anvil is an old heelless Powell---fat waisted like old English anvils and without the heel almost all sweet spot! (save for the horn...)

I don't know about room temp but British Beers are supposed to be drunk at cellar temp; which seems pretty warm to folks out this way who drink beer "ice cold".

As I recall Meatloaf used to drink warm beer before doing a concert to make himself sweat more----before he cleaned up his life.

I remember a WWII comedy film with Phyllis Diller where they used a CO2 fire extinguisher to chill beer on a South Sea Island: The Private Navy of Sgt O'Farrell

I know you are not "in theater" any more; but I may have to try that one---except I don't drink canned beer in general. I do have an old CO2 extinguisher than needs to be emptied to chop up to use the base as a dishing form...