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Hand forged tongs from rebar

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cool ill check it out is there any diffrence in NPT thread and a regular thread

 

Who ever told you a bottom blast was superior to a side blast was blowing smoke... 

in many ways a side blast is superior to a bottom blast, and if the fuel is blowing out you need to figure out how to throughtle back the air, almost every electric blower you get will need that as they just move to much air for a small forge.

 

What do you mean by " it is hard to get the coals out"

If you are strictly listening to one guy and only going off his opinion then why are you not asking Him for help? 

 

NPT stands for "Natinal Pipe Tread" it differs from the treads on nuts and bolts buy being taperd like a cone, so as you tighten it the spaces between the threads get taken up to make a water/gass tight conection

One of the first things we make for solid fuel is fire tools, a rake, a shovel and a poker. 

  • Author

thanks for the tread info. 

im thinking about scrapping the treads an welding them so i can buy in bulk cut weld repeat

  • Author

yeah in my last forge design it worked extremely well.

if it had a tee in it

Note the information on making the tuyere and the fact that the brake drum is optinal, as the same thing can be done with Adobe mud

Be aware that charcoal dosnt much care for bottom blast, so for all endings and perposes a bottom blast is a single fuel forge.

  • Author

yeah t JOBD has some Problems like not enough space to hold what you need it to ive got an old lawnmower to take apart and use the mower deck for a table to hold more coal and the workpecice 

  • Author

only because i had too deep of a firepot but it got good air when the heat gun didnt melt 

Not enugh space? Are you trying to heat 2"? You can only hand forge about 6" of steel at a time and the JOBD forge will heat 1" stock. 

But as we now have a plan moving forward of using a lawnmower deck (I have seen a few nice ones that took that rought) a shallow rotor  and coal will work rather well, they acualy look like some of the cast forges when you get done. Your big problem is still air management, you need somthing to restrict air from your blower ( be it a hair dryer or bath fan) 

  • Author

the rebar is too long and it sticks out the forge and fall on the ground 

We all use somthing to suport long stock, like the anvil (two reasons two have your anvil and forge hearth at the same hight, 1 we don't waste energy lifting stock from one to the other and we can use one or the other to suport long stock) look around and you will see that stock stands and brackets are common. I prefer 32"x60 hearths myself. 

Now as to the mower, you will need to close off the discharge hole (some mulchers either don't have one or a removable plate, problem solved) and keep your pot shallow or plan cut outs, or both. 

IMG_0343.JPG

  • Author

discharge hole you mean where the thing that engages the blade 

A neets trick with bottom blast forges is to use a bullet grate (a large pipe cap 2"+ with a 3/4" hole drilled in the center. This will raise the center of the fire for general work (1" or less stock) wile living you the ability to pull it out and use the dealer fire pot and larger tuyere to make a larger fire and heat 2" stock. Another advantage is slag roles off the bullet grate and forges a ring like a donut ant dost block the air

Discharge hole, the place were the chopped up grass is spewed out. The big rectangular hole in the picture

 

  • Author

ok so where he big peice of plastic is that you sometimes have to liftup 

Just now, Charles R. Stevens said:

Ribbon burners are a gass forge thing. Are you talking about the bullet grate?

yes

please forgive spelling chrome book has bad kebord

Yes, that's the discharge hole.

Shady, I did exactly that!

we are only talking about 1 hole in the bullet grate. This again makes a small fire ball, wich conserves fuel when we don't need a big fire and moves the small fire ball up so the center is closer to the hearth top. 

  • Author

i looked up bulle grate but i got nothing

 

1 hour ago, ryancrowe92 said:

yeah in my last forge design it worked extremely well.

if it had a tee in it

So, umm.. Why not put a T in the bottom pipe and a weighted flap cap on the ash dump ( bottom of the pipe) then your blower won't get ruined from ash and slag falling into it. 

A heat gun ( as stated before) is not helping you. Unless it has a function to just run the blower without the heat. 

 

Why do you keep dancing around a simple fix instead of actually forging those tongs that this thread started out about. 

There are hundreds of simple solutions to hold longer stock at the forge. Charles mentioned one. Quickly built sawhorse out of scrap lumber, a stick with a Y in it stuck in the ground....

 

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