Glenn

It followed me home

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Yes, those drills are strong, always remember that the handle on the back of the drill is to carry it, not to use while drilling. If the bit gets stuck and you are holding that handle it will break your hand when it kicks back.

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I haven't actually measured the chuck, but I will and let you know.

Back in my timber-framing days, I was using something similar to drill through a 8" x 10" yellow birch beam when the bit jammed so hard and so suddenly that it snapped the shaft inside the motor. That'll wake you up in a hurry.

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A little steel I got from a generous RR maintenance crew that was staying at the hotel I work at. A few spring clips and spikes are new stock. These were the same guys that cut a thirty inch piece of rail and gave it to me last winter. I go out of my way to make sure I bring them something whenever they stay. They gave me the spring clips back in the summer. I didn't even have to ask, they came and found me.

PnutIMG_20191030_060738.thumb.jpg.c3f1378d7c9d653b7effb926321af55f.jpg

 

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Very nice. Those clips make good chisels.

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21 hours ago, JHCC said:

Very nice. Those clips make good chisels

That's what I plan on doing with at least one. Thinking about a hand held fuller for another and maybe a little tomohawk. 

Thomas, the sparks lead me to believe it's in the high end of the medium carbon range. Longer sparks, more branched , and more erupting sparks than a piece of 1045 but not as much as the piece of 1084 I compared it to. I'm not very experienced in spark testing so  I make sure to compare it to known steel but my collection of reference pieces is still pretty small. 

Pnut

Edited by pnut

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I made a raising hammer with one a couple of years ago. 

12AB27C7-E64E-4339-B568-161FDFD6BEE3.jpeg

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Nice, I don't do any sheet metal work yet but I may in the future so I'll keep that in mind.  I've been thinking about a draw knife but I have a small piece of leaf spring that would be pretty easy to cut to shape and finish up everything else except final grinding on the anvil. Maybe I'll do both, who knows. 

Pnut

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40 to 60 points is what I remember for the clips, (with a HC spike topping out at 30 points---or 27 points in the new AREMA chart.)

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That's what I read also, but I'm trying to get better at estimating carbon content by the sparks.

Pnut

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I hold by having a bunch of known samples and check the sparks against the samples---as was mentioned above.  Ofcourse the high alloy steels like H13 can display like cast iron or wrought iron at times...

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I tried to radius the edges on a piece of H-13 and it didn't make sparks. I was surprised. I shouldn't say it didn't make any sparks but it didn't make many sparks would be more accurate. I didn't really get too far grinding it either. It seemed awfully hard.

I'm trying to build my collection of reference samples but I just started. When I get new known steels I always cut a piece off and label it for future comparison. 

Pnut

Edited by pnut

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One way to do it is to get a club involved where a bunch of people buy a bar of the alloy they are assigned and then cut it into sample lengths and do a trade at a meeting.

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That would be a quick way to build a varied collection of samples. Good idea.

I haven't come across any or used 0-1yet but I'll remember it for when I do.

Pnut

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The fellow selling S7 5/16 rod at Quad-State 2 years ago would have been a great resource for samples

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O-1 is not expensive at all, and is easily found in machine shop supply catalogs. Along with W-1, A-2, D-2...

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12 minutes ago, ThomasPowers said:

The fellow selling S7 5/16 rod at Quad-State 2 years ago would have been a great resource for samples

I still have some of the O-1 round bar I got from him. Let me know if you need a bit, pnut.

 

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I went back to that dealer to invest my leftover spending money on more but the person in front of me bought everything he had left!

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There's a steel supplier near me that has a pretty good selection of tool steels. I'm trying not to use too many different steels. When things start turning out like I want more often than not using the mild,10xx, spring clips and the leaf springs I have I'll start using other alloys. Until then I'm going to stick to the few types I've been using but when it comes to small reference pieces I'll get them any time  I have the opportunity.

Pnut

Edited by pnut

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Good methodology; I'm just getting contacted by the NMT knifemaking club and was discussing what alloys they had available to learn on; D2 was on the list...So I told them I would donate a couple of nice coil springs so they could all work with the same alloy at the same time and learn it's working limits and heat treating.  I also threw in 14 22" long pieces of 1/2" sq A36 for just hammer practice.

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I have a piece of D-2 and that is one of the hardest pieces of metal i have ever in my life had to work with. 

Anywho, stopped by my supplier today to see what was there, looking for a piece of 4140 by alas it was not to be. So i picked up a round of S-7 1-3/4" by about 2", a hunk-a-hunk burning A-2 2" x 1-1/2" and a chunkalunka 1018 1-3/8" x 7/8" by oh, what 8" or 10" or so. Got these just cuase i did not want to leave empty handed. $8 poorer but what the heck. Now what to do with them...<_<

Oh, i forgot where i started this, they had loads of A-2 and D-2 drops. Said they have been selling bunches and bunches of it lately. Not even a chip of O-1 or H-13 available. They had 4140 i was looking for but nothing in a usable shape for what i have in mind. That would be another hammer. Most of what they had was like 1/2" x 6" or something. 

20191114_164720.thumb.jpg.a65fb4537c2599b00b73b7a8e7b69216.jpg

 

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I forged a small D2 blade when I was MUCH younger (and had access to proper heat treating...) I used to say that you hit the D2 with your hammer and it just laughed at you!

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Scrapped these up from a machine shop in Salt Lake industrial land. The worker didn’t know what steel. The shortest piece is 2”-2 1/4” diameter, don’t remember and what looks to be snapped or sheared from some incredible force. Didn’t get a close up pic. The longest is 1 1/2” diameter and has a hex on one end. Any idea what they used these for? The shop was adjacent to a truck shop.

 

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The one with the hex end might be off a torsion bar. Hard to tell about the others.

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