T-Gold
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Everything posted by T-Gold
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I've got to join a piece of ~1/4" tubing tangent to a short (less than 1/2")section of thin-walled stainless tubing. Figured it would be easier and prettier to braze. I think I'd have trouble getting all the way around that joint fast enough when welding. The prep's simple enough that I'll probably try one of each, though.
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Isolite Bricks..........?
T-Gold replied to Stu in Tokyo's topic in Blacksmithing, General Discussion
Use the soft bricks. They insulate FAR better than the hard bricks, and come up to temp as much as 20x faster. I wouldn't be ordering Kaowool from the states if I had firebrick available at that price. -
I got some feedback from one of my coworkers that has a lot more welding experience than I... still wouldn't mind hearing from y'all though :)
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Stainless. Salvage. I don't know what that is... it's my neighbor's car. Sure is a beauty! I'm not much into representational repouss
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I've got some small stainless parts that I was thinking about TIG welding... but I'd rather braze them, and if possible I don't want to use flux because there are small spaces it could get trapped in. My thoughts went to TIG brazing. I know Tom Stovall does it -- can anyone chime in with a basic procedure for SS and silicon bronze filler, or something? Thanks, guys!
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Dry-fit the counter a while back, but didn't occur to me to post pics...
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Also note that to reduce tip wear, rollers should not be set tight enough to leave serious impressions on the wire... those impressions work just like a file on the soft metal of the tip and ream it right out. If you can feel more than a couple thou of play between the wire and the tip it's a good idea to replace it.
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If you don't plan to ever use this burner outside an enclosure... just add a choke to it and set it up in your forge. Dang near anything will burn in an enclosure. That's how mine are.
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Is there any way to easily tell the difference between cadmium plate and zinc chromate plate?
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All is well over here... my area was among the last 1000 people to get electricity back, and school's got me busier than a beaver in a lumberyard. No rest for the wicked!
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Possibly... I'm open to ideas. :)
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Wow! That's some very good-looking work on the cover there -- and the cover itself is appealing, too.
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For the paint, I'm going to clean and reprime all the rusty areas, and then have a friend of mine who's a fantastic hand with a spraycan and a marker decorate the sides. I'll coat over that with clear polyurethane or something. Engine runs strong, 3B, but does need an oil change -- that is HIGH on my list of priorities for it. Dale P, you check the fuel filters?
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Dang, I want one of those... it'd look good next to my 18# (8kg) hammer.
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I bought this postal truck from a friend of mine... it's a 1984 AM General with only 50,000 miles on it. Automatic tranny and a rated load of 1/2 ton... yeah right! With the 250+ CI straight six in there I'm pretty sure it'll handle quite a bit more. Right hand drive, too! Needs only a few minor bits of work (plus registration) and it'll be back on the road.
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I use a 2.5#, which isn't an option! Dang metric system. :)
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Anvil 01 The anvil we were using. Apparently a farrier's? It had some sort of turning cam on one side, and two pritchel holes. -
Mini Cupola The bloke who was selling the Anyangs made this with his son for a school project. Apparently it really works! -
Anvil 02 Another view of the anvil. -
Coke Forge The coke forge we were using. -
Punching with Luke 04 Punching over the pritchel hole. -
Punching with Luke 03 Still working on it. -
Punching with Luke 02 Working it through. -
Punching with Luke 01 Punching with me new mate Luke. He's an architectural smith working just north of Sydney.