sandpile

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About sandpile

  • Rank
    Senior Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    dalhart tx
  • Interests
    Bladesmithing, Blacksmithing--Teaching Grandkids and others. Training trick dogs and some things to some cats.GRIN.

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  • Location
    TX Pandhandle
  • Occupation
    Knifes and Grandkids

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  1. Rusty-- you can see one pair of spurs of mine in the gallery in farwestforge.com under sandpile look at both pictures so you don't miss the dog heads.
    chuck

  2. Raise the grain and sand back till you get it where you want it, oil and seal and wax till the handle is water proof and Simoniz or something similar on the carbon blade. I use nose oil on my EDC O1 personal knife blade. Lots of ways of getting there but no short-cuts just elbow grease and experiments. None as easy as buying stabilized handle material. chuck
  3. During all the posts I did not see anyone mention a full anneal. After the normalizing and before the quench heat. I like to do a full anneal it helps on most of the warpage and sets the steel up for initial grinds. Works for me. chuck
  4. On quench tanks of any length you need to be able to heat your oil and stir it up to make sure your not going to have any hard or soft spots. On a tilted tank for swords or whatever you want to quench. You will need to heat at three levels. I have a basket on a wire set up in my tanks. I can't drop it any further than the bottom of the basket. chuck
  5. JOHN- Mighty fine. It is a once in a long while of forging to get something to turn out as slick and nice as this one. Congrats! Your learning curve and hard work is what got you here. Thanks for the excellent pictures. chuck bennett
  6. Beth- Thank you so much. I have a book manuscript finshed but have not found an editor.
    chuck

  7. Looks even better now.
    chuck

  8. hi chuck i loved your words about your horse years ago and the work you did- just wanted to say in case you didnt look at the posts that i think you should write a book - i would be gripped to read more stories like that - you got a nice way with words :)

  9. On Thomas' Cur-mud-geon. I realize I am two weeks late on this post. Having had several dealing with the accused.Grin I believe the #1 and #2 of GLENNS explanation pretty well fill out THOMAS's rather clever abilities to go right to the point and squat like an ole hen. If you check his track record he is generally right on the money. That's my 2 CENTS worth.----BOG chuck
  10. I'll restate my question now that I see hardening sounds pretty straight forward (whenever I do end up trying to make something out of it): Can A2 be annealed in Vermiculite, or does it have to be done in a furnace? Being even more specific, will Vermiculite limit the cooling to the "40 degrees F per hour or less" rate that is called for when annealing A2? Thanks again I was referring to his revised question. chuck
  11. We drill every thing and fit up before epoxy. Drilling one bolster at a time. If you break through before twistinge bit off. You can use a smaller sized bit in reverse at a very slow speed and back the broken bit out----sometimes. 416 work hardens real fast. Have a fresh bit and cutting oil before you start. It is best not to predrill and ream on 416. The work hardening can be a problem of several metals. Hope that helps chuck
  12. ALVIN-- To your question. Yes you can anneal A2 in Vermiculite. If it is less than a quarter inch you might want to sandwich(clamp) it between two thicker pieces. Heat the three pieces up to above Non mag. Quickly jam them in the vermiculite. Come back the next day about the same time. chuck
  13. If not too bright --may be called HAMMER HEADED. CHUCK
  14. The new set up is better.
    chuck

  15. If someone wants to try horse manure. I have some behind the barn that has been there several years. I would think a hog, dog, or re-tired out house dung would be hotter by quite a bit. chuck