Pr3ssure Posted June 25, 2017 Share Posted June 25, 2017 So I'm getting into bladesmithing, slowly getting everything I need. I was wondering about hammers. I seem to have figured out I probably need 3 hammers for a good set, ranging between 2 and 4 pounds. I wanted to know what the real difference in styles are. I found a site with french, german, Nordic and Czech style. All ranging in price from about $30 to $100 in all weights. Is there a performance difference in the styles or just a preference? Also would a hammer from Lowe's or Sears not meant specifically for forging work if it's the right weight and shape? Or would they just muck up the blade. I would just like to get a few hammers for a good price I'm not going to want to replace immediately and regret not spending a few more dollars. I know if I stick with it I will get a nice expensive set with carbon handles but for a starter set, what's the cheapest I could go without regret? I also need a belt sander, haven't looked into the specs I would need/want. What are some good recommendations as far as belt length/width and style? I appreciate any feedback, I'm sure there's forums about all this but I'm having trouble finding specific answers. -Dylan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted June 25, 2017 Share Posted June 25, 2017 Go to the flea markets and look for a 2 pound hammer. Cost can be very reasonable. Look up the Pennsylvania blacksmithing groups and go to the meetings. Your not that far from Pittsburgh. A day at the meeting will answer most of your questions, and then some. They will also have used tools for sale. You may want to look at the hammer section of the site. Only 548 topics in this forum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marc1 Posted June 25, 2017 Share Posted June 25, 2017 Agree, particularly with the 2 lb. Unless you're built like a tank, avoid the 4 lb and even the 3lb for now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pr3ssure Posted June 25, 2017 Author Share Posted June 25, 2017 9 minutes ago, Glenn said: Look up the Pennsylvania blacksmithing groups and go to the meetings. Your not that far from Pittsburgh. A day at the meeting will answer most of your questions, and then some. They will also have used tools for sale. Yeah, I'm about an hour away from Pittsburgh. So I'll have to look into when there are meetings. I'd love to find a nice used anvil at a reasonable price. My dad's boss has one he might be able to get for free or very cheap but it's just been sitting for a decade and may be no good. He's a truck driver though and goes from Ohio to New York so I told him to check out some flea markets. Thanks for the tips though, much appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted June 25, 2017 Share Posted June 25, 2017 Read the anvil section on the site. Only 4,694 topics in that forum. May want to pack a lunch and a cold drink before you go. (grin) For blacksmithing equipment go to SOFA in Troy Ohio in September. Take cash and the big truck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pr3ssure Posted June 25, 2017 Author Share Posted June 25, 2017 4 minutes ago, Marc1 said: Agree, particularly with the 2 lb. Unless you're built like a tank, avoid the 4 lb and even the 3lb for now. Alright, I'm a fairly small person. So 2 pounds should do. And would a straight or cross peen hammer be better? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted June 25, 2017 Share Posted June 25, 2017 There is a 118 pound anvil for sale in the tailgating section of this site now. Again, you may want to look at the hammer section of the site. Only 548 topics in this forum. What did they suggest when you read the hammer section? Very first post is Hammer Dressing and Cow Pies which will answer your peen question. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marc1 Posted June 25, 2017 Share Posted June 25, 2017 I don't even own a straight peen hammer. It's all cross peen for me. I think that a diagonal peen may be nice, but then all it takes is to turn the stock a tad ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pr3ssure Posted June 25, 2017 Author Share Posted June 25, 2017 6 minutes ago, Glenn said: Again, you may want to look at the hammer section of the site. Only 548 topics in this forum. What did they suggest when you read the hammer section? I didn't even see the hammer section, I must have kept looking over it. I've been reading on here randomly for about a week and just made an account. Maybe I should have looked harder. "Opens new tab" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pr3ssure Posted June 25, 2017 Author Share Posted June 25, 2017 Well just in the first 2 pages my hammer questions were answered, thanks for point me in the right direction and not bashing me for being lazy. Greatly appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted June 25, 2017 Share Posted June 25, 2017 If you are willing to read the suggested material, we are willing to help. You are encourages to ask questions, but as you found out already, most of your questions have already been answered several times on the site. Think of finding the answers as a challenge because learning is fun. 22 pages in the hammer section so you only have 20 pages left. Pack a lunch and a cold drink LOL. Search the thread New JABOD box of dirt forge, the thread on the 55 Forge, bottom and side blast, and A simple side blast forge all in the solid fuel forge section. Oh yes, there are only 1,950 topics in this section of the forum. BTW you have been on the site all night. You have to get some down time so the brain can digest the information and start building a data base on blacksmithing. You will know when you have had enough when your hair starts to hurt. (grin) Down time is followed by taking what you have learned to the forge and actually trying it out . Prove it right, or prove it wrong, either way your brain will solidify the information into the data base. Hammer time is just as important as reading, if not more more important. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted June 25, 2017 Share Posted June 25, 2017 I use my straight peen much more often than my crosspeen and my most expensive hammer cost me US$35 for a lynch collection sledge I bought at Pennsic one year. Even my 1500 gm swedish crosspeen I bought used at Quad-State for $20... Please remember that the internet is NOT THE BEST PLACE to get a lot of stuff. As for finding an anvil at a reasonable price: may I commend to your attention the TPAAAT described on this website many times. Now you do need to know how to test an anvil and warning signs to avoid an ASO. (You may also want to look at the thread on Historical Blacksmithing Tools that was started today and see what they used to forge swords on for about 1000 years...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jackdawg Posted June 25, 2017 Share Posted June 25, 2017 3 hours ago, ThomasPowers said: I use my straight peen much more often than my crosspeen I like my standard peen as well, hardly ever use a cross peen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shamus Blargostadt Posted June 26, 2017 Share Posted June 26, 2017 Rogers, OH is about 50 miles NW of Pittsburgh. It's a tiny no-light town whose main attraction is a massive flea market every Friday. I acquired my favorite 3lb forging hammer from there for $20. Also a good place to find vises and anvils, occasional tongs. Also found some bits of brass there for a dollar that made very nice fittings for knife handles. I started out with a Sears 2"x42" grinder/sander for around $100.. with some modifications (removing a bunch of crap that's in the way) it does the job until you're ready to go for one of those big-boy 2"x72" monsters. If you're hoping to get lucky with an anvil, hunt down metal salvage yards.. make friends, tell them you're trying to find an anvil to blacksmith. I got a 150lb gem for $50 from a junk yard. It's beat up but does the job. It was covered in rust and looked like junk when I got it but after a few seasons of beating on it, it has come to life. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John in Oly, WA Posted June 26, 2017 Share Posted June 26, 2017 Read the anvil section on what to look for and what to avoid in finding a decent anvil. Just because one has been sitting for decades doesn't mean it's no good. Although there could be other reasons other than age or idleness that might make it not suitable. But if you know how to tell what to look for and what to avoid, you'll be prepared to look it over. And FREE is always a good price for a decent anvil. I have an anvil that's 109 years old - it sat idle for many decades, but it's in great shape and works just fine AND it was free too. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted June 27, 2017 Share Posted June 27, 2017 You're going to do just fine here Pr3ssure. Anybody willing to actually read recommended sections is going to be a PLEASURE to help. Cross, straight, angle, personal preference and the job will say what your favorite will be. Don't get in a hurry, the only thing rushing does reliably is make your mistakes faster and more permanent. Yard, garage, etc. sale hammers are as good as any. As a beginner I highly recommend a 32oz. drill hammer. They have shorter handles for better control and require less strength in the wrist. 2lbs. is plenty of weight to move metal well and not so heavy as to make your mistakes permanent as quickly and is less tiring or likely to injure you as a heavier one. Another pein I recommend is a turning AKA rounding hammer. They're favorites of the farriers and due to how effective the design is they're becoming a go to blacksmith hammer. The face is flat and the pein is a shallow dome, think really stubby, neckless ball pein. fleamarket, yard, garage, etc. sale ball peins are always good to pick up for cheap, broken handled ones can often be included in other sales if you ask. Ball peins are dandy for forging into other hammers and top tools. Reforging one is a good practice project and gives you one of the pure D pleasures of blacksmithing using a tool you made with your own hands. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lanternnate Posted June 27, 2017 Share Posted June 27, 2017 My first hammer was one I picked up used that I assumed was 2.5 lbs because well every cross pein I'd ever seen in a store was 2.5 lbs. I subsequently bought a new 2.5 lbs hammer and realized that first hammer was well lighter than 2.5 lbs. The little guy really didn't have trouble moving metal, and I found it more enjoyable to use (sadly that one has been relegated to other work due to face damage I didn't know better than to look out for when buying). I had also bought a 4 lbs hammer thinking "I'll really move steel with this!" I really don't care for using it, and I think I actually move less metal because I just get tired using it too quick. Others might feel differently, and you may as well. If you can get some cheap ones in different shapes and sizes you can figure out what works for you. I've mostly used cross to date, but I'd like to try a rounding right around that 2 lb mark. I actually use a 24 oz ball pein for light finishing work and flattening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pr3ssure Posted June 27, 2017 Author Share Posted June 27, 2017 I appreciate the help guys, I've made a basic solid furl forge with a 20 gallon drum and a pipe and hair drier I all found in my shed. Used s rock and 3lb mini sledge to flatten out a lawn mower blade. Once I get a hammer and something completely flat to beat on I think I'll be on my way to making something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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