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I Forge Iron

Jasen's smithing progression.


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On 7/6/2017 at 11:23 AM, Jasent said:

Correct. There is no hurrie.  I some times get ahead of my self. 

Don't we all, I think wild ideas all the time I just had to learn not to do them till I've tried the like. It's looking really  nice. Man that's a lot of grinding isn't it?

Frosty The Lucky.

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58 minutes ago, Frosty said:

Don't we all, I think wild ideas all the time I just had to learn not to do them till I've tried the like. It's looking really  nice. Man that's a lot of grinding isn't it?

Frosty The Lucky.

Your telling me but I'm also learning a lot from this project. I think I need some handles of some sort though. This thing is heavy and tough to move around. May weld a bit of chain on each side to use the engine hoist to lift it. 

Sofar I think I want a v notch near the fuller and then I'll leave it alone till I know more what I need.  I'm curious how much different this will be over my rail "anvil" 

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The chain will be an annoyance even if it isn't in the way. A pair of lifting ears in the center of each face works a treat. If you want to get crazy you could drill and tap all the way through and use large eye bolts. Heck just drill all the way through and slip a piece of stout round stock through and hook your lift to it. 

I just poke a spud or pinch bar through one of the through holes in my swage block and lever it up to turn it or lay it flat. My swage stand is two steps of old guard rail post wood screwed and glued together. I can lay the block flat on the top step or stand it on edge on the lower step and have it at a good working height in either position. It was easy and really cheap, we were replacing the posts with galvy I beam posts anyway so they were getting tossed, even the screws, bolts, washers, etc. Good salvage material. ;)

RR ties (AKA Sleepers) would work a treat as well.

Frosty The Lucky.

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I'm likening the hole threw idea. I've gotten a section about 5" fairly flat tapering to a mild hump. With my rail anvil I learned a mild hump can be helpful. I've radiused my edges from small to large.  

Ive marked out my v notch to the size I'm wanting. I have this notch a little smaller in my striking plate and like it but wanted deeper and wider. 

 The fuller I put off to one side a bit to have one side more open for hammer clearance as I can see that angle being useful. 

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You aren't thinking of making the V groove a 90 are you?! :o A 90* inside corner is easy to find almost anywhere I like the 120* in swage block a LOT and the hex bottom swage is the natural mate. 

I'm not sure about putting all the die surfaces at one end though but I've never made something like that. Maybe ask Brian Brazeal what he thinks?

Frosty The Lucky.

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3 hours ago, Frosty said:

I'm not sure about putting all the die surfaces at one end though but I've never made something like that. Maybe ask Brian Brazeal what he thinks?

well his anvils have all the dies on one surface, but he doesn't do any swages, just fullers and butchers. I think put a couple on one side that would be used the most and a flat spot for your general forging, leave one of the other sides completely flat for straightening longer sections, and then fill the other sides with dies as you go. I would just do the anvil Like Brian's, and then a couple swages on another side. but that's ME and would be best for the work I DO.

                                                                                                                       Littleblacksmith

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18 hours ago, Jasent said:

I think I need some handles of some sort though. This thing is heavy and tough to move around. May weld a bit of chain on each side to use the engine hoist to lift it. 

Did you see this thread? A really clever way of lifting and rotating the anvil with a treadle and pivot arrangement.

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I was thinking 90, I can always go larger later if needed but it's not so easy to go smaller.  Maybe I'll just improve the one on my striking "anvil" for now and see how it goes. 

I think it's time to start working on a stand. Using this thing will tell me a lot more about what I need. 

I want a metal stand, I do have some monster RR ties (12"-16") and telephone pole but currently I can cut steel much easier than wood.  

Jhcc I did see that stand and like the idea but it does not look very sturdy. I don't want my "anvil" to be able to bounce around or move in the stand  I may modify it for my needs though the block of steel weighs as much as me. 260lbs

Thanks for the input guys

 

i still have my heart set on a papa Rhino just not in the cards this summer. 

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8 minutes ago, Jasent said:

I don't want my "anvil" to be able to bounce around or move in the stand

You could always add something to lock the lifting mechanism down when you're not rotating the anvil, so it's both a rotating mechanism and a mounting system. I'd go with some hefty springs that would hook and unhook as needed.

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1 hour ago, JHCC said:

Did you see this thread? A really clever way of lifting and rotating the anvil with a treadle and pivot arrangement.

Thanks for sharing this link, I had missed it.  He really did some good work on that chunk of steel and the lift.  But for the life of me I can not understand all the sharp edges, I could see one sharp edge and the rest at different angles or radius's.  I don't know what the use of even one sharp edge would be, but maybe a quick way to mark a line in metal?

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3 hours ago, JHCC said:

Hey, another idea would be something like a leverlock from a 55 gallon drum. Unlatch, lift anvil, rotate, lower anvil, re-latch.

I have been thinking of cam locks as they hold very well and quick to release.  I would change up the lifting leaver to be pointing up when relaxed cause I could see my self tripping over it trying to move around the anvil. Plenty of room for improvement in the design but a brilliant idea none the less. 

@stockmaker if you read threw the thread the sharp corners are brought up. Can't remember the reasoning though

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This is similar to what I'm thinking for my latch system. I've worked with binders for so long I think I have a good grasp of how to make some.  Easley made adjustable tension and quick to release  

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Got the second layer ridgedized and Fire  cured.  Just realized I still haven't sent my money order to Wayne. So no kast o lite or metrikote yet.  Looking forward to work slowing down a bit. Thankfully it seems our heat wave is over. First rain in months is coming down. 

Also found out the 1 5/8" round stock I got is not hydraulic ram but SS of some sort. I cut off a small puck and tested it for hardening and it did seem to harden up some.  If nothing else it will be good stock for practicing hammers

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Jasent 

is that stainless magnetic or no. some of the SS grades are air hardening or work hardening. I don't remember the numbers for it. I just know it has a really narrow heat range for being workable. And when it's done it's done. 

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1 hour ago, BlasterJoe said:

Jasent 

is that stainless magnetic or no. some of the SS grades are air hardening or work hardening. I don't remember the numbers for it. I just know it has a really narrow heat range for being workable. And when it's done it's done. 

Yes it is magnetic.  i have worked ss some in the past. 

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A gota give a big THANKk YOU to Frosty for posting up those plans for you burners! The burner I built when I first got started worked but just ok. It got the forge to heat but took some time! Built one of frosty's burners today after work and holy smokes does it work!! I'll get video and pics up soon, waiting on mail for my kast O lite 30 and metrikote from Wayne.  Can't hardly wait to forge in this setup! Also a big THANK YOU to Mikey for all the info I've read in forges 101

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