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Jasen's smithing progression.


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  • 2 weeks later...
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Dressed up grandpas handled hot cut and made one more for my striking "anvil" (cast steel tractor weight) from 1 3/16" axel.  Did all the work on my vertical rail anvil except upsetting in the modified hardy. 

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On 6/2/2017 at 9:09 PM, ThomasPowers said:

I was wondering about starting with a ring of steel.  Forge welded or sourced that way. Or flatten the ends a bit and roll into a nice little cylinder on the end. Or trimmed and then ground smooth and rounded. Or...

I did one like that once, with one of a bunch of steel rings that a friend picked up somewhere. I wasn't too happy with how it came out, but I really should go back and try again (especially now that I have a proper vise to help with the twisting). I think a round cross-section would look better twisted, too.

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4 hours ago, JHCC said:

I did one like that once, with one of a bunch of steel rings that a friend picked up somewhere. I wasn't too happy with how it came out, but I really should go back and try again (especially now that I have a proper vise to help with the twisting). I think a round cross-section would look better twisted, too.

 

Hmm I may have to try that some time.  I have some washers like that 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Got a little time yesterday and began cleaning up my block of steel.  I don't know what this steel is but it is tough to grind.  Going to take a lot more grinding to smooth and flatten the face.   Staring with a 36 grit flap disk for almost an hour.  Angle grinder started getting hot so I gave it a brake.  

 

Still brain storming my stand

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I'd take something more aggressive than a flap disk to it until you get through all the kerf lines from the torch cut. Then move to lighter and lighter abrasives until you're happy with the finish. Go to a pretty aggressive wheel to start, IMO. You'll be at it for ages like that.  And unlike an anvil, there's no top plate to worry about damaging.

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Ooooohhh, if that was mine, it would be a perfect contestant

for a Brian Brazeal training anvil!

Image result for Brian Brazeal anvil
                                                                                                                                    Littleblacksmith

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That's pretty much my plans lbs. 

i thought it was mild steel. Figured 36 grit would eat up those torch grooves quick. I was wrong. I'll try the hard stone and see how it goes. 

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1 hour ago, Jasent said:

That's pretty much my plans lbs. 

i thought it was mild steel. Figured 36 grit would eat up those torch grooves quick. I was wrong. I'll try the hard stone and see how it goes. 

No flappies, hard disks move a lot more metal, flap disks smooth things without changing shapes or much detail and fit into curved spaces. If you start at one spot, corners are my preference, with the grinding disk level and slowly advance it into the cut marks using the edge to cut it'll go much faster. This is NOT the same as using a grinding disk like a cutting disk or visa versa that is a BAD thing to do, bad can happen. When you look at the results after a few seconds the disk should've cut a flat area behind its edge, literally a step. The flat of the disk should lay on the ground spot behind the cut. 

Whipping a disk grinder back and forth is a waste of time, energy and QUALITY, they put a motor on the things so you don't have to do that. I don't care what you see them doing on Forged in Fire it's poor grinder technique and the results reflect it.

Frosty The Lucky.

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You won't heat the grinder up so fast if you take smaller bites depth wise. Half the blade thickness is about right.

It's my pleasure to be of help when I can.

Frosty The Lucky.

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1 hour ago, ThomasPowers said:

9" grinder the thing that gives out will probably be you!  Take it easy, it will get done; don't hurt yourself trying to push it!

Thank you for bringing that up  

I've spent a little time with a 9". You know you need to be careful when you kick it on and the torque makes it turn in your hands. I'll be very careful. I'm in no rush as I have an "anvil" like object to use for now. It's not much but it's all I've ever know

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Yes a harbor freight 4.5"  I had a dewalt 7" but some jerk figured they needed it more than I did. 

I've been searching threw the forum looking at every stand I can find getting ideas for this block. I'm not sure yet how I'll secure it in the stand.  I love the widow stand jlp made with the utility hitches for trays or what not. 

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Were I making an anvil like this every edge would have it's own shapes. The stand would be a piece of plate with large angle iron welded to it spaced so the anvil was held vertical. A couple set screws in the angle would keep the anvil from bouncing.

Frosty The Lucky.

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I was thinking of that too but just don't know enough to know what other shapes I might need. Got any ideas on shapes I could include?  Thought I would do the sides like a swage block with negative curves or dishes.    Any and all tips/ advice is appreciated! 

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There's no hurry is there? Grind the bottom dies as you need them. Make the basic shapes first and do what you discover you need as you go. If you try to anticipate the shapes you'll need in the future all you'll do is make the mistakes permanent.

Relying on luck is a bad way to make tools. Sure, once in a while you have to wing it in dark country but that isn't the way to go in every day life.

Frosty The Lucky.

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