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I Forge Iron

Jasen's smithing progression.


Jasent

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I just liked the pic. With the forge glowing in the back ground. Was too dark to take pic of the progress, so I took a pic of my setup. The tongs are on the vice.  When you can no longer see where you set the hammer it's time to call it a night. 

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Decided to tackle my hammer drift project today but not the h13. Decided to do a practice drift with spring steel. Still a bit of finishing up todo but it's very close to being finished. Almost the dimensions I wanted. Once I grind out those ridges along the edges it should be perfect or close to it

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Good Morning, Jasent

Just a little thing on your first Tongs. If you look at how the reins come from the Hinge area, you turned your material the wrong way. The rule of thumb is to start on the near side of the Anvil to set the start of the Jaw and Hinge area, 1/4 turn left on the far side of the Anvil and at a 30-45 degree angle for the place where the Jaws come together, for the width of the hinge area, 1/4 turn left on the far side of the Anvil to set the other side of the hinge area and the start of the reins. That is, Left, left, for right handed Blacksmith or Right, Right for left handed Blacksmith. Not Left, Right or Right, Left. I know, it is your first set of Tongs and you are allowed to learn.

You will find you will dull the point on the drift, knocking it out, to take another heat. Round the corners of the Drift (look at a store bought Handle. Carpenters use rectangular handles). The corners MAY start cracks if they are too sharp/square.

I am trying to give you constructive criticism. Enjoy the Journey,

Neil

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Thank you for the tips but those tongs are not my first. I was copying a tong making video from wcb where the tongs are made from flat bar and split apart. If you look back at the tongs in the beginning of the thread you will see I do just what you said. This is a different approach. 

they are quick and still very strong

again thank you for the tips. Now that the sun is up I can see to finish the shaping of the drift. The corners are not square or sharp But bull nosed. I am copying the head of the hammer handles I get locally only slightly over sized to accommodate shrinking as the heads to cool. 

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I want to make my drift to fit handles I get at north 40.  7/16"X 13/16" For the drift as the handles are slightly smaller than that

About 1/16 smaller each way
I figure I'll error on the fat side and do some test drifts then grind down if needed

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Had the day off today due to the job buried in snow. As fate would have it ,it was my birthday As Well. Decided today I would coat the forge with metreikote after I touched up the kastolite. I had dropped and chipped some from around the back door.  Turned out nice. Fired the kastolite then let it cool then did the metrikote while it was slightly warm. Misted the kastolite with water before painting on the metrikote then warmed it with the burner off and on till it was dry and then fire cured

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13 minutes ago, Daswulf said:

Well Happy Birthday! 

Thank you!

 

i also got the drift finished up. Then grabbed my handles to compare. Duhhhht the one I grabbed to measure from seems to be the smallest one! Not a big deal as they are all the same width but most are an 1/8" longer. Nothing the rasp won't fix but I sure would have made this thing a hair wider that way if I had known. We live and we learn

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25 minutes ago, Daswulf said:

Lol yup. Probably best to measure a sample batch before comitting to the size drift. Thanks for the lesson learned. :D 

Luckily this was my test drift before I busted out the H13! Happy I can help. I learn most my lesions the hard way. So this thread may be of more help in the future 

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better get them lesions  looked at before they go "foreign"....   Manufacturing Variability is a constant issue with wooden items; especially if you live where "kiln dried" may be wetter than ambient! (I like to let my handles sit for a year in the shop before using them---not a problem as  I stock up when I find them cheap and use as needed)

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