I just got this wagon vise that someone welded a piece of channel to the bottom.  While it allows it to stand on the floor by itself so it's easy to store, I would rather put the vise back into the shape it should be (as best I can).  I have another wagon vise to copy the bottom strap from.

As you can see, the weld is on the threads.  I plan on removing this channel and making a more accurate retaining strap for the vise.  My question is this - I know that I can just cut off the section of thread with the weld and make a retaining strap that came up to that level, but I'd rather not if it could be avoided.  

Any thoughts on how I might remove this and minimize damage to the threaded section?  I know I can cut it off using a dremel around the post, but am left with the weld on the threads.    Maybe grind it to the diameter of the threads, then rethread it?  Just looking for suggestions to try.

 

 I thank everyone in advance for their help.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I would carefully cut the weld and re-thread the stud.

Ditto, but more of a clean up than rethread, Use files to dress the weld on the thread down to close to the original threads after you grind it off the channel and then run the die down carefully to cut it true.

Yep, my poor choice of terms. Clean up the threads would be more appropriate.

I've done it all by files before when running into weird threads on old equipment

Farmall, I'd be interested in seeing your progress on this vise. 

I have one the same style as yours. It was welded on the back of an old jeep cj5 I purchased for parts. Unfortunately they cut off the threaded parts. 

I just found some images on how these are supposed to be. So both studs and bottom bracket are gone on mine. 

Greetings Farmall,

       If cutting and cleaning the threads does not work well I would cut it flush and drill and tap for a new stud.  Easy fix.

Forge on and make beautiful things 

Jim

Good morning I.F.I. denizens,

Filing and re-threading is the way to go.

It is easier and more precise to cut a starting "channel" with a jewelers' saw. That gives the file a path to start cutting. The initial shallow cut will help the file avoid  "wandering" when getting started cutting.

This extra step is a little time consuming, but it should make re-threading much easier and less work.

Jewelers' saw blades are very narrow and hard. They cut through most metals.

Regards,

SLAG.

Thanks!  I'll give 'er a go.

 Daswulf, I'll send pictures of the complete one I have that will show you what it should look like.

Appreciated. 

Daswulf, sent you an email with a couple of examples.  I have seen two styles of clamping - obviously this vise is like the bottom one.

Doesn't anybody here have a Thread File? You only need to know the TPI, each thread file has 8 different TPI each. SAE or Metric are common tools.

The problems found trying to chase threads using: triangular, half round, jewelery, etc. files are no issue with a thread file. #1 The teeth cut threads at the correct angle. #2 The right TPI is available. #3. It takes almost no skill to use so you don't need years of practice with files and precision work to make the threads right.

I have two of Dad's thread files and the one I bought when I moved to Alaska. A quick websearch gets lots of hits, these are images. https://www.google.com/search?q=Thread+Files&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwj81KzDgcbTAhXmwFQKHWQxDEMQ_AUICigB&biw=1094&bih=474

Cut it loose, draw file the remaining weld bead flush with the top of the threads and chase the threads with the Thread file. Do NOT grind anything first, the abrasives that are left in the parent stock will dull your files.

Frosty The Lucky.

Thank you frosty.  Your answer provides clarity and I'll file it away (sorry, I couldn't resist, Frosty)

old tools may have non-standard threads

As usual, Frosty and I agree on a course of action. 

A thread file will work well for dressing the restored thread to it's final dimensions.

However, ... ( there's always a "however" ) ... I would find it difficult to get a thread file to "start" cutting into the welded area.

For that reason, I'd want to "start" each groove with a triangular file, ... and remove enough material so that the thread file didn't have to remove as much of the old weld.

 

There are a variety of "external thread repair tools" available, ... ( thread chasers ) ... but they would also have trouble getting "started" on that bit of weld.

Some careful hand filing is the best way to get started, ... and I like the "Jeweler's Saw" idea as well, for establishing a starting groove through the weld.

 

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In regard to the other above mentioned repair, ( Daswulf ) ... Jim Coke's idea is a good one.

But, unlike the "original" thread, I'd recommend a high-grade, fine thread stud, of slightly smaller diameter than the original.

.

 

Frosty beat me to the thread files.  As a maintenance guy, we swear by them to repair "hammered" threads on our machine tools & equipment.

Slag, thanks for the tip on the jeweler's saw.  I have one at the home shop, now the maintenance guys get a couple too.  Good excuse to hit the craft supply during lunch.

1 hour ago, SmoothBore said:

 

In regard to the other above mentioned repair, ( Daswulf ) ... Jim Coke's idea is a good one.

But, unlike the "original" thread, I'd recommend a high-grade, fine thread stud, of slightly smaller diameter than the original.

.

 

I do like that repair idea. It would beat trying to weld them on I believe. All that would've left is to forge the lower bracket.