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I Forge Iron

Birthday A2 knife(in progress)


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bevels. Not quite satisfied with the first side i did and the thickness at the edge is a bit thick, but i would rather have it thick than thin. Bout a dime in thickness and there is a gouge at the riccaso in the first picture from me being over zealous making sure that i got it down to thickness.

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Ok, Got it back from HT and its looking good, the edge did not warp and the finish has been put on it. I sent it off for engraving to personalize the knife and as soon as I get it back I will make a big push to finish by Friday. One issue though. During HT the knife bent a bit at the points in the picture. It isnt a ton, but it is significant enough that putting scales on it will be hard since it isnt flat. The RC is 62 so It has good RC but I want to remove that warping. What is the best way I can go about that? Should I heat the steel in the handle to get it soft enough to change shape or what? I know I dont want to compromise the HT on the blade since that was the whole point of getting someone to do it who knows what they are doing. I dont think it was his fault since the steel is thin in that spot I point out and it must have warped because of that.

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Depending on how severe the bend is you might be able to correct with the three point method. With your vise you put a dowel or rod in the middle of the outside of the bend and two on either side of the inside of the bend, then clamp in the vise so the rods are pushing things back straight. I've done this with hardened and tempered 5160 without needing to reheat and soften the steel. I let it sit in the vise for an it for the new deflection to "take" but I don't know if that part is needed or not. Caution would be advisable and not pushing it too far so you don't break anything.

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Like Daswulf, that area concerned me a bit as well.  The reality is that the tang doesn't need to be nearly as hard as the cutting edge.  As long as you don't heat the blade past its tempering temperature, you can heat up the tang to high black or dull red heat to straighten it out.  A small propane torch should provide enough heat to straighten that area without heating the blade.  That's a really bad spot to have steel that's even a little brittle anyway.  The two other places on the tang you created the same pattern do appear to have enough steel around them to be strong, but you're definitely a little thinner than is desirable in the area you highlighted.

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Not sure if I'd have the guts to do the three point trick (ive made myself a three point jig for my vise and use it, but never on anything anywhere near that thin. You may not be able to be gentle enough... 

As for heat, depends on your equipment. If you suspend it blade down in water (with the handle exposed) and can quickly and precisely get those two spots sort of hot , then quickly clamp it between two plates and let it cool, should come out flat and not ruin the heat treat on your blade. A2 is pretty resistant to changing at lower heats, so as long as you don't get it glowing (and you keep that blade cool!) I think you'd be alright. 

If it were my project, I'd probably put some sort of heat sink on the ricasso and WELD that area up a bit, inside and out, to strengthen it, then I'd grind it flat. It looks very thin there and if I were using it, I'd probably break it. 

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I don't have any plates available, I do have a propane torch and I can set it up in water. It might be worth a shot using the dowels and be gentle with it since that method requires no heating and thus no reheat-treat. If I have to resort to heat, would I be able to temper it myself seeing as how I have an oven at my disposal or would that be something even you guys would be uncomfortable with?

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If you don't get the steel above critical temperature then tempering wouldn't even be necessary.  However, as Thomas pointed out, that is an air hardening steel so it could easily harden if you get it a little hotter than you intended.  You can use the kitchen oven for tempering if SWMBO doesn't object.  It would be best to get an oven thermometer rather than trust the oven's sensors.  As long as you don't go hotter than the original tempering temperature you won't mess anything up.  Preheat the oven and use the thermometer to ensure you have the temperature where you want it to be before putting your blade in. 

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1 hour ago, Graham Gates(Ionic Muffin) said:

I don't have any plates available, I do have a propane torch and I can set it up in water. It might be worth a shot using the dowels and be gentle with it since that method requires no heating and thus no reheat-treat. If I have to resort to heat, would I be able to temper it myself seeing as how I have an oven at my disposal or would that be something even you guys would be uncomfortable with?

If your vise jaws are halfway decent (mostly smooth and square), you can probably just clamp it in there, the jaws will act as heat sink and plates. If the jaws aren't great, a couple of pieces of angle iron draped over the jaws will give you flat surfaces. In fact if you have the angle iron, I'd use it whether the jaws are good or not.

As others have said, A2 is air hardening, so don't get it too hot and try to avoid letting the heat get to the blade (use heat sinks, water, wet rag, whatever it takes). You can even clamp the knife in your vise with the blade down, jaws on the ricasso area and probably heat those small spots enough to move them without letting much heat get into the blade (the jaws will act as a heat sink and not much will make it to your ricasso. Then take 2 flat bars or some angle and a pair of vise grips and sandwich that handle right away.should be straight and flat once it cools. Just be careful, there's not much metal there.. if you try to torque it at all it looks like it could crease or just break altogether.

Tempering in the oven is cool, just follow Buzzkills advice.

I still say I'd weld it if it were mine! But i'm prone to breaking stuff.

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I got the knife straighter now. It has a partial crack on the top portion. I dont foresee this knife going through the kind of abuse that would stress the handle area and I am putting ipe scales on, so I dont think it will go through enough to break it. When I epoxy it up I think the epoxy should help too.20170427_231421.thumb.jpg.62bfee92bac4f836a87e2b24a9ea7a73.jpg

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Out of curiosity why did you add the larger holes in the first place? saving a tiny bit of weight while giving up structural integrity is a bad plan. 

You never know how it will be used, or who will use it once it is out of your hands. 

I do like the profile and design on the blade. Well done on that. 

I would go with what Quint said and weld it. There just isn't much meat there to trust it. 

 

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It's your friend and your work, but that would not leave my possession in that condition.  Most people don't know how well you did the heat treat and may not appreciate the time and energy put into the finish on the blade, but *everyone* notices a broken handle.  I'm not a weldor, so I don't know if/how one should weld A2, but I'd have that area welded to fix the crack and beef up the tang in that area before slapping a handle on it.  The profile, grind, and etch all look good to me.  It would be a shame to have it fail and get tossed out.  Maybe you'll get lucky and the scales and epoxy combined with light use will keep everything together.  My luck isn't good enough to gamble on.

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