JOBOOZOSO Posted November 28, 2016 Share Posted November 28, 2016 I'm in Jersey trying to get an anvil. Seller says it's 180 lbs. I need help determining the maker, year, value, etc. Thanks so much. Joe B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Frog Posted November 28, 2016 Share Posted November 28, 2016 A picture of the other side of the anvil is where the company stamp would be (if visible). There should be a serial number on the front foot under the horn. It is either a Trenton or Arm & Hammer anvil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JOBOOZOSO Posted November 28, 2016 Author Share Posted November 28, 2016 4 minutes ago, Black Frog said: A picture of the other side of the anvil is where the company stamp would be (if visible). There should be a serial number on the front foot under the horn. It is either a Trenton or Arm & Hammer anvil. Nice start to my investigation! I'm unable to be next to the item and I can't get those marking pics until later. Can you give me heads up so when I'm in person I'm prepared? If it's a Trenton, do you have any assessment as to it's value and year? What about a Hammer? Thanks so much Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daswulf Posted November 28, 2016 Share Posted November 28, 2016 Also check the rebound over the face. "Looks" like it has some torch cuts in the face. If it has good rebound those can be worked around. Can't really help on price in that area. All I can say is depending on rebound, I'd personally pay a bit less because of the torch cuts. Just my opinion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JOBOOZOSO Posted November 28, 2016 Author Share Posted November 28, 2016 2 minutes ago, Daswulf said: Also check the rebound over the face. "Looks" like it has some torch cuts in the face. If it has good rebound those can be worked around. Can't really help on price in that area. All I can say is depending on rebound, I'd personally pay a bit less because of the torch cuts. Just my opinion. I'm a newbie. Besides a "feel" for rebound, any way to calculate it? Based on what you see, what would you pay for it to make it a no-brainer? Thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swedefiddle Posted November 28, 2016 Share Posted November 28, 2016 Good Morning, If it was a different colour, it would be worth more. I prefer Anvils in Blue!! Asking what the Anvil is worth, is like what kind of Beer is the best. It all depends!! If you don't have an Anvil, it is worth more. If you don't really need an Anvil and one is plunked down in front of you, it is not worth as much. How much work is needed to make this one a NICE Anvil? How far do you have to drive, to find out it is a roach? Good Luck on your Journey. Neil Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Latticino Posted November 28, 2016 Share Posted November 28, 2016 Drop a 3/4" diameter ball bearing from approximately a foot above the anvil surface and measure the height it bounces back to (anything above 75% is good to great, anything below 50% is poor IMHO). What you pay for anvils is localized, as regards demand. A no brainer for me would be anything below $1/lb., but each to his own. If good rebound all over the face I would consider paying up to $2/lb., but I already have an anvil. If the seller is looking at e-bay pricing they may think it is made of precious metal. Prices there are quite inflated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JOBOOZOSO Posted November 28, 2016 Author Share Posted November 28, 2016 2 minutes ago, swedefiddle said: Good Morning, If it was a different colour, it would be worth more. I prefer Anvils in Blue!! Asking what the Anvil is worth, is like what kind of Beer is the best. It all depends!! If you don't have an Anvil, it is worth more. If you don't really need an Anvil and one is plunked down in front of you, it is not worth as much. How much work is needed to make this one a NICE Anvil? How far do you have to drive, to find out it is a roach? Good Luck on your Journey. Neil Neil Guinness is the best. I got what you're saying. Big help. Guy wants $250. Prices in Jersey and around the Delaware river are way high right now. Anvils are hot, so it appears to be a tempting deal on the surface. 3 minutes ago, Latticino said: Drop a 3/4" diameter ball bearing from approximately a foot above the anvil surface and measure the height it bounces back to (anything above 75% is good to great, anything below 50% is poor IMHO). What you pay for anvils is localized, as regards demand. A no brainer for me would be anything below $1/lb., but each to his own. If good rebound all over the face I would consider paying up to $2/lb., but I already have an anvil. If the seller is looking at e-bay pricing they may think it is made of precious metal. Prices there are quite inflated. Thanks! I'll test when I see it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted November 28, 2016 Share Posted November 28, 2016 JOBOOZOSO, if you put your location in your profile settings (not just mentioning it in an easily lost thread comment), we'll be in a better position to help with location-affected questions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daswulf Posted November 28, 2016 Share Posted November 28, 2016 I see the faster typers beat me lol. Latticino and Neil covered it well. Could use a small hammer to get an idea on rebound as well. An anvil could have been subject to a barn fire or heating while torching that could make it lose its temper making it soft and not ideal for forging on. If it has good rebound then that price isn't bad in my opinion. Just me tho. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted November 28, 2016 Share Posted November 28, 2016 Both are top brands and that is not a bad price in your area *IFF* the rebound test and ring test pass. Also if you drop the ball bearing from 10" with a ruler next to it then the height it bounces is automatically the % (7" = 70%, 8"=80%, 6.5"=65%, usw) Both those brands should have a clear ring and if it does not a hidden crack---mabe face delamination is somewhere and plummets the price. Check under the heel of the anvil and see if you can see the undulations of the steam hammer blows from forging it---very distinctive for Arm and Hammer's Also check along the front foot of the anvil for possible weight or serial numbers. Note any weight stamps will be in pounds and not the english CWT system as both those makes were forged in Columbus Ohio with that configuration. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C-1ToolSteel Posted November 28, 2016 Share Posted November 28, 2016 Before I saw what you said he is asking, I was going to say $250 or less would be a no brainer. For me anyways. As long as the rebound is decent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted November 28, 2016 Share Posted November 28, 2016 1 hour ago, C-1ToolSteel said: I was going to say $250 or less would be a no brainer. For me anyways. As long as the rebound is decent. That would be about right for me, as I have no brain. However, I am not on the rebound. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted November 28, 2016 Share Posted November 28, 2016 Also; folks are very prone to misjudging anvil weights. Luckily 180# would be well within a bathroom scale's range, especially as most of the estimates tend to be higher and not lower. Note too that a good brand anvil at a decent price will generally sell in *hours* not days! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fatfudd Posted November 29, 2016 Share Posted November 29, 2016 Black Frog is correct its either an Arm and Hammer or Trenton. In most places a listing at that price would have been sold within minutes. If its still there and you can get it for that price even if its only 100lbs you would be wise to jump on it(assuming the rebound is good and the face isn't to beat up)! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JOBOOZOSO Posted November 29, 2016 Author Share Posted November 29, 2016 Got it. He owned for over 30 years. It was time for him to sell. He just bought a 1931 Ford Model A. It was sharp. As for anvil, guy had a ball bearing! Some spots bounced to 8", no lie. Other spots to 4". Could be just where it was hitting mildew. I'll hit it with a wire brush. No markings anywhere. I searched all over. Maybe the brushing will reveal treasure. No weight measurements labeled. I attempted to lift, and no way could I get it off the ground by myself. So it's definitely not 96, and prob more than 150. I'm strong like bull. Without the marking I offered $220. I said I loved it, and I didn't want to insult him with $200 offer. We agreed on $230. Thanks everyone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C-1ToolSteel Posted November 29, 2016 Share Posted November 29, 2016 Glad to hear it worked out. How high did you drop the bearing from. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JOBOOZOSO Posted November 29, 2016 Author Share Posted November 29, 2016 10 inches Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted November 29, 2016 Share Posted November 29, 2016 Well done. I am sure you asked him about any other blacksmithing stuff.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin A King Posted November 29, 2016 Share Posted November 29, 2016 Regardless of the weight, you made a good purchase in my opinion. I'm still chuckling at your comment, "I'm strong like BULL!" Please post back when you get the anvil cleaned up. I find myself hoping you don't grind on, or weld on this anvil. As I mentioned in a facebook post, If Trenton, the anvil will have a weight on the left front foot and a serial number on the right front foot. Even trentons with no markings often have these numbers on the foot under the horn. I have very little experience with Arm and Hammer. AIA states that there is often rough fullering marks under the heel of an arm and hammer. I've never actually seen one in person. Congratulations on your purchase STRONG LIKE BULL! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JOBOOZOSO Posted November 29, 2016 Author Share Posted November 29, 2016 2 minutes ago, Kevin A King said: Regardless of the weight, you made a good purchase in my opinion. I'm still chuckling at your comment, "I'm strong like BULL!" Please post back when you get the anvil cleaned up. I find myself hoping you don't grind on, or weld on this anvil. As I mentioned in a facebook post, If Trenton, the anvil will have a weight on the left front foot and a serial number on the right front foot. Even trentons with no markings often have these numbers on the foot under the horn. I have very little experience with Arm and Hammer. AIA states that there is often rough fullering marks under the heel of an arm and hammer. I've never actually seen one in person. Congratulations on your purchase STRONG LIKE BULL! Thanks! I'll be careful. I'll hit it with a wire wheel/brush and some lube. The secrets will be revealed. I'll re-post the pic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted November 29, 2016 Share Posted November 29, 2016 Just remember that once you mess your back up you get to live with it the rest of your life! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JOBOOZOSO Posted December 4, 2016 Author Share Posted December 4, 2016 Thanks everyone! These are the only marks. Any ideas about the maker or year? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted December 4, 2016 Share Posted December 4, 2016 Weight on the left front foot, Serial on the right front foot => Trenton made in Columbus Ohio If the serial is 195464 it was made in 1928 (195356-196467) A picture of the underside of the base and heel also helps identify anvils... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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