Kevin A King

Hello All! I haven't been on IFORGEIRON for a while Guys. I appreciate the comments to this post. I have managed to pick 3 of these tables. 2 are really nice and one had rotted legs that I cut down to a low table. they all 3 are quite nice - Not for sale and will likely stay with me.

According to Postmans "AIA" 14K serials were produced in 1894 24K serials were produced in 1896 34K serials were produced in 1897 44K serials were produced in 1899 54K serials were produced in 1900 64K and 74K serials 1901 84K serials 1903

My apology, I fat fingered the numbers FatFudd (That name was actually hard to type). You likely already know that I meant 1895. All the best sir!!!!!!!!!!!

I have 2 Hay Budden anvils with JE Pilcher, BLACKJACK stamps. I was under the impression they were made for the Simmons Hardware store. This Anvil (73 lbs) is Serial 17689 which according to AIA dates it as 1985 production. SO Did Hay Budden make blackjack anvils under 2 different names?

someone wiser than me should chime in eventually. Based on what i have read in Postmans AIA, this anvil would be one of MANY english anvil producers. it is not in my opinion MOUSE HOLE. All the best. You can also post this question and photo to the ANVILS page on Face Book. All the best

Good point Thomas! I do still wish I had a "do-over" and I would have left that little Hay Budden Original.

It is said several times above - This is your anvil and you can do as you wish. I will however share my story. The anvil below was my first real Anvil - an 84 lb hay budden. It's a different story, but I have almost no money in this anvil. Immediately after acquiring this little hay budden I became fixated on anvil restoration. I researched it, dug, searched, studied and learned everything I could on anvil restoration. I bought $80.00 worth of fancy, high dollar welding rod and test welded on high carbon steel to get everything "JUST RIGHT!" Unfortunately I do not have a BEFORE picture of this anvil b/c I did not have sense enough to take one. The edges were quite bad and rolled over, there were gouge marks in the face and several corners were chipped. The anvil had no real good use-able edges. I was convinced it needed repairing! I ground the edges, hard surface welded them and brought the anvil to 90 degree edges all around. I WAS PROUD of my accomplishment and felt quite accomplished. I had a use-able hay budden anvil for FORGING it was Perfect! Since I finished repairing this anvil I have learned more about forging, have learned more about anvils and have learned more about collector value. I have also acquired a larger shop anvil so this little hay budden only gets used for leather riveting. I REGRET the repair, I regret the work I did to this anvil and I wish I could take it back! The anvil would be worth more to someone (A collector perhaps) as an old, rounded edge hay budden than in its current state of "perfection". I wish you all the best in your repair. If I had a DO OVER - I would NOT DO THE REPAIR my little hay budden below.

Sell it and buy a refflinghaus! I'm working on memory here, but Dick Nettlefield (blksmth.com) had one advertised on FB Just the other day at 3K for a 330 pounder

Someone post up on this thread how this auction went with regards to pricing please. I am thoroughly amazed with the prices vintage anvils are bringing currently and am frankly wondering if these inflated prices will hold over the long run. All the best!

These are actually some of many anvils being sold at auction on Saturday in Missouri. Info below. You can go to the website for a full list. Most of the anvils look like vulcans to me. IM NOT GOING! Sat 5/20. 10am. 140 anvils plus advertising anvils auctioned off 17802 unicorn rd Stark City Mo 64866. Bob Lasswell auctioneer. ( good luck)

Frosty a view of mt denail - tallest mountain in North America would definitely be a sight to see each day. Thank you for your offer, hospitality and willingness to show me around. I do not know that I will make it up there for a trip. Maybe after retirement! All the best Kevin

There are several folks on this forum from Alaska. I often wonder what it would be like to visit and or live in Alaska! THE FINAL FRONTIER! Beautiful Anvil. I do not own a saw makers and hope to have one some day.

NoName, the 166 does not have any obvious cast lines, and the ring is strong although not quite as loud as the hay budden. on the 166, The entire anvil appears to be forged and plated. I agree with your observation of English and In my opinion, Peter Wright. At any rate, thank you!

I approached a senior member of the forum hoping to get contact information for Richard Postman and he suggested I post this to the group. I have 2 anvils I would like to get Richard Postman's opinion on. I'm taking a chance here and wondering if someone might Personal message me his email address? OR if someone might be willing to share my email address with him in the hope he would allow me to contact him. Long story short Anvil 1 - Hay Budden 230 lb (Scale weogjt), early style shallow depression in base, early style narrow waist, plated with partially legible HB stamp, NO visible weight stamp and NO visible serial number on foot. I"m wondering if this anvil might be a really early (maybe 1890-1892) Hay Budden. First 2 pics are the HB, second pic is bottom view. Anvil 2 - 166 lb peter Wright (Maybe PW) - No marks whatsoever save the U in the solid wrought circle, 4 handling holes. I'm guessing PW but who knows. Last Pic is the Questionable PW.

I owned a 70lb vandium steel anvil. It was diamond hard on top and did not ring. The Vandium was a little small for me so I sold the anvil. Yours looks to be in near perfect condition.

I have a little Hay Budden 84lb anvil that I believe has a 3/4 inch hardy. I can make you one if the hardy is the same. OR - I can make you a Brian Brazeal style hot cut that is tapered and sets (wedges) into the hardy hole of your anvil. You can message me and we'll hammer out the details. i use both kinds of hardys but am favoring the brian brazeal style lately for the hot cut.

I'm going on memory here so correct me if I'm wrong. I remember Postman saying in AIA that "If the anvil has a factory Pritchell hole, it is likely produced after 1830". All the best. Kevin

Admin: My apology for having this posted 2x! I am above my pay grade with all things computer and must have hit the post button 2x.

I will preface my I preface my striking anvil build questions below with (I have searched the Forum and read the threads). This is a request for advice from those who have built, used, abused and had experiences with striking anvils. I want to avoid mistakes and make this anvil one time. ONE and DONE! Top is 14 X 4 X 2, which will be welded onto a bottom which is one inch larger (All the way around) than the top or 16 x 6 x 2. Material is MILD STEEL. I have cut a 1 1/8 hardy hole into the anvil which is the hardy shank size of my bottom fullering, cupping and cutoff hardys already built for my anvil. - My current Hardy tools will all fit this striking anvil without having to make new hardy tools. *My Plan is to cut the legs from Pipe at a 9-11 Degree angle (Which in your opinion is better 9 Degree, 10 Degree, 11 Degree angle and why?) - Legs will be 3 inch pipe welded to the bottom 2 inch plate, with supports welded around the bottom of the pipe legs, and bottom plates for anchoring to concrete. *My plan is to set the top height of the anvil at 24 inches or 2 feet high. I am 5-10 ish and shrinking at 49 years old! (What say you on Striking Anvil Height?) SO, What angle on the legs? What Height on the striking surface of the anvil? I'm 5 foot 10 inches tall What mistakes did you make on your striking anvil that you would change if you had it to do over again? THANK you in advance KEVIN KING Fayetteville ARkansas

I will preface my striking anvil build questions below with (I have searched the Forum and read the threads). This is a request for advice from those who have built, used, abused and had experiences with striking anvils. I want to avoid mistakes and make this anvil one time. ONE and DONE! Top is 14 X 4 X 2, which will be welded onto a bottom which is one inch larger (All the way around) than the top or 16 x 6 x 2. Material is MILD STEEL. I have cut a 1 1/8 hardy hole into the anvil which is the hardy shank size of my bottom fullering, cupping and cutoff hardys already built for my anvil. - My current Hardy tools will all fit this striking anvil without having to make new hardy tools. *My Plan is to cut the legs from Pipe at a 9-11 Degree angle (Which in your opinion is better 9 Degree, 10 Degree, 11 Degree angle and why?) - Legs will be 3 inch pipe welded to the bottom 2 inch plate, with supports welded around the bottom of the pipe legs, and bottom plates for anchoring to concrete. *My plan is to set the top height of the anvil at 24 inches or 2 feet high. I am 5-10 ish and shrinking at 49 years old! (What say you on Striking Anvil Height?) SO, What angle on the legs? What Height on the striking surface of the anvil? I'm 5 foot 10 inches tall What mistakes did you make on your striking anvil that you would change if you had it to do over again? THANK you in advance KEVIN KING Fayetteville ARkansas

Z is likely the first letter of the last name of the anvil maker. According to AIA (I'm quoting from only my memory), there was an anvil maker named Zulty. This anvil was Definitely made by Trenton. Post pics to Facebook Anvil Site and tag Todd Hoffman. He'll want a photo of the anvil for his database of trentons. I have a 34K serial number 203lb Trenton that was made in 1903. Yours would be either 1903 or earlier.

I recognize the v shaped bottom of the horn which looks Mouse Hole-Ish. That said some easy rust removal will likely bring forth some more markings on horn right side of the anvil. I'm betting it is a mouse hole. 105 lbs per marking.

beautiful! Make your friend and his wife some pretty things on your new anvil and bring them to him. Mow his yard or cut him some firewood! your buddy just gave you $900+ bucks minimum and in some markets considerably MORE!

According to Postman's AIA (Anvils in America) Peter wright put all kinds of different numbers and stamps on the foot of anvils. It is thought some of these were inspection marks and steel batch marks. I have a 135 PW with an 7 stamp on the foot. It is stamped on both the left and right side of the front foot. Over payment is completely relative! I have seen smaller anvils (50-90LB) sell for upwards of 4-7 bucks per pound. The smaller anvils tend to fetch more money per pound and I'm not really sure why. Portability, collector value, decoration? Heck I don't know. I would suggest you do not repair, grind or weld on that anvil. My first real anvil is a 84lb hay budden with edges somewhat worse than yours. I hardface welded the edges and repaired them thinking it absolutely HAD to be done. I now use that anvil for leather work, riveting and bench top work only. Truthfully I reduced the collector value of the anvil by repairing it. If I had it to do over again I would NOT have repaired the anvil. If you need a sharp edge for forging, you could possibly make a hardy tool (2 inch or so) square that could be used for sharp edge forging. Meanwhile a sanding block on that face will bring out the smooth steel. Heck forging on the face will do the same thing! All the best, congratulations on your purchase. Don't sweat the price as you can likely get your money back easily should you choose to sell your anvil.

After you get the anvil home and clean some of the crud off, please post up some pics. Based on the picture above I'm betting it is a fine USA Forged anvil with years of paint and crud built up. As far as ring is concerned, this anvil is securely mounted to some sort of stand which could considerably lessen the ring. I bet you a signed dollar bill that once cleaned and removed from that stand the anvil will not only ring, it will have good rebound. That said - I'm interested in seeing what you have purchased. Nice work!