I'm looking for some help identifying this forge I recently picked up. Instead of a hand crank, it uses a lever/pump action to move the blower. It's definitely been repaired on top at some point over the years as it looks like the pan probably rusted through. Everything else is in original shape and works great, although the legs are pretty wobbly at this point. Should I restore them and make it usable again or leave it as-is and sell it to someone who needs a decoration? The hand crank mechanism works, ie. it blows a bit of air, but it's a lot more work than turning a hand powered version, even one without a flywheel. Just seems very over complicated and inefficient, which is why I'm wondering if it's not somehow "special."  I can't find any identifying marks anywhere except for a 526 and 527 on either side of the tuyere. I hadn't ever seen anything like it and figured it had to be worth something!

Many of these out there. They are intended for occasional use. Lightweight stock. A portable farmers forge.

I have never used one but know some who do. They tell me they work but would much rather have a gear box blower.  These, apparently,  require some effort to use. I can say they probably wont work for anthracite. 

Our group has a member with one like it, and he sometimes takes it to demos and meetings.  Fully functional, heats very well and is an attention-getter.  Yours looks to be in pretty good shape.  Put it to use.

the lever blowers were an early adaption away from bellows..  It still retained the pump, pump, pump like the bellows people were familiar with but had the blower..  some of the pump models worked very well even better than some of the lower billed hand crank blower models. 

Other nice thing is the pumping can be a lot easier on the shoulder if the lever is low enough.. 

 

Here's one in use...(yes, that's Bob Patrick in the picture helping a new member).

Greetings Jdawgnc, 

I have one and so does my friend who uses it as his go to for demos. I think you could improve the performance with a few adjustments.. 

1st ... a much thinner drive belt .. leather is best .. it must flex on the blower pulley and proper tension . Not tight. 

2nd ... lubrication ..  30 weight motor oil

3rd .... proper alignment of shafts and drive belt.

4th... nice smooth pump action .. go full stroke .. it's easy to short stoke and go fast but it will not work as well..

I hope this helps . Just  an ol Boys advice on how to tune up your forge.. Have fun.. 

Forge on and make beautiful things 

Jim

 

I have a similar forge, and while I'm not using the pump blower at the moment (I've retrofitted it with an external electric blower), I do have one additional suggestion to Jim's excellent advice: check the interior for the nests of rats or wasps. 

Don't ask me how I know this....

Rat's nests should work fine for a fire starter...!! (if they're like the ones in my wife's car engine compartment)

Not when they're wet....

Depends on what they are wet with.  Seem to work fine with kerosene.

On 10/28/2016 at 9:24 PM, Jim Coke said:

I have one and so does my friend who uses it as his go to for demos.

Jim Coke,

 I have one similar to this one, I had my son to just drag out of storage building after many years . I would like to get restore and get it going. Last night before we went in I found cast in the pan, what appears to be U ?  A space and then 501. Pan seems in good shape.. The grate in the center of pan is missing, as is the yoke and wooden handle. I have not gotten the blower cleaned off to see what info might be on it. Blower is free

 Are there parts available for these ?

Interested in all I can find out. If you have the time.

[email protected]

Charleston, IL.

Greetings Joy,

        The handle is a simple solution. A wheel barrow handle available at most hardware stores.  The center grate is available on line for about 15 dollars or they are easy to make. Pictures of the forge would make it easier to determine the other parts that you need for your restoration. Several manufacturers made small rivet forges .  Good luck and have fun. 

Forge on and make beautiful things 

Jim

Hi Joy, Welcome to IFI. We wont remember your location after leaving this thread. As Jim said pictures will help. I always suggest reading this thread

to get the best out of the forum.

Welcome aboard Joy, glad to have you. If you'll put your general location in the header  you might be surprised how many of the gang live within visiting distance. 

Pictures of your forge will help us evaluate the situation and lead to maybe accurate rebuild advice. 

Frosty The Lucky.

Does anyone know how much these antique forges are worth?

Wide range...I have seen them sell from $100 to $450. Take your pick. All were in very good shape like yours.

Depends on location too!  As I consider a forge just to be a hole in the ground moved up to convient height I don't consider antique forges to be worth much save as display pieces. Of course the solid fuel forge I use the most is built from old stuff: A WWII era jig borer door and a 1930's banjo rear end axle cover. going strong for decades now.

I just got one of these U 501’s.  Can someone tell me when they were manufactured, who by, and what does the U mean.  Thanks in advance.  Victor

That be the Canedy Otto Chicago no. 154