Kozzy Posted June 6, 2016 Share Posted June 6, 2016 I'm "upgrading" my coal forge and originally intended to fabricate the support framework from scratch. However, I also have a framework (3 actually) pre-made that are very sturdy welded pipe frames originally from school AV tables. The problem is, they are 36" tall and there is no good way to shorten them without losing some of the structure (cross braces in the wrong places to shorten). Before I give up on the idea of just using one of those, I was wondering if anyone had used a forge at about 36" tall (to the table) and if there were problems or benefits to running a little taller. It seems a workable height...but barely. I Would rather skip the fabrication but if there are negatives to tall that I am not seeing, I'd like to hear and just move on with a scratch build. Table top hits me just below the belt buckle. Looking again, I can take about 3" off the height before I get into cross braces. Still wondering if there is an "ideal" height for the forge as there is for the anvil surface. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted June 6, 2016 Share Posted June 6, 2016 Yes there is an ideal height and it varies depending on YOU, what YOU are doing and how YOU do it. For heavy work I would suggest having it so your holding arm is at a comfortable extension; for light work it can be higher; especially if you need to monitor it closely with IR PROTECTED eyes. If you are bad about not protecting your eyes put it at a height where you can't look into it easily of for an extended period of time! My current forge for teaching and small to moderate work has the floor at 36" from the ground I prefer to go "down" to the anvil, not up. YMMV Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kozzy Posted June 6, 2016 Author Share Posted June 6, 2016 Thanks. The old forge was a little low so it makes that 36" seem towering to look at. Standing against that and "pretending" doesn't seem problematic or excessively high but it's easier to ask before hacking the metal than it is after. Learn from the mistakes of others because there are already enough of your own to last a lifetime. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the iron dwarf Posted June 6, 2016 Share Posted June 6, 2016 I make forges 30" to the top and very few of the 500 plus customers have asked for anything different, though if they do I am happy to oblige, being short 36" would be a bit more difficult for me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted June 6, 2016 Share Posted June 6, 2016 The problem is in the details; I have a friend who works at a place where the 12" diameter stock is considered on the small side and the tongs have 4 wheels. Their requirements probably do not match up with yours. I've also done hot forged silver work in a very small forge that I needed to keep an eagle eye on it so it didn't melt. Again the requirements probably did not meet up with yours. Without telling us your requirements how are we supposed to guess at what you need? If we don't give you all the details on what we are using how can you tell if it's applicable? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted June 6, 2016 Share Posted June 6, 2016 Ideally your probably think about anvil hight. No lifting/lowering from forge to anvil, and you can use the fore/anvil to hold up one end of the stock. Biggest downside to gas forge's is that you either mout it high to make looking in easy, or bend over/squat to look in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted June 6, 2016 Share Posted June 6, 2016 Being able to rest longer stock on the anvil is a good consideration if you don't have a stand to hand or a chain down from a rafter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
odblacksmith Posted June 6, 2016 Share Posted June 6, 2016 Kinda with Thomas on this one(as far as solid fuel goes)id use it at 36" high if thats what i had available but probably only for lighter work.Another thought is will this be a long term forge?In my shop i actually stacked blocks/pieces of lumber under my forge body to calculate a comfortable working height for holding/grabbing out 1/2" all the way to 3" material because i knew i would be doing a bit of everything...worked fine.If i were to do it again(again solid fuel forge) I would just worry about being able to get odd shaped/long pieces in and not worry so much about the height...but thats just me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matto Posted June 7, 2016 Share Posted June 7, 2016 Mine are all around 30 to 32 inches off the floor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bud in PA Posted June 7, 2016 Share Posted June 7, 2016 Because of my back problems I've made mine 36" tall. The less I have to bend the happier my back is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted June 7, 2016 Share Posted June 7, 2016 Moxon says 30 to 33 inches high depending on what your forge is designed to do. Heavier work, lower forge. Note that heights were probably different back around 1703 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donniev Posted June 7, 2016 Share Posted June 7, 2016 Mines at waist height but as everyone else has already said, use what works best for you. If you are able to cut 3" off, I personally wouldn't think 33" tall would be awful. If you used the old forge at anvil heighth for a long time, it probably looks like a tower to you, just something to think about. If I saw a forge at anvil height, I'd question why the dang thing was so low. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kozzy Posted June 7, 2016 Author Share Posted June 7, 2016 Thanks to all who answered. I think I'll go ahead and cut off that available 3-odd inches which will make the height about halfway between anvil top and 36". Using one of these frames is so easy and quick that even if I decide I need a change later, about all I'd have to do is fab up some new legs and move the top over--Hard to go wrong as a test because it's so easy to change if needed later. It really was more of a perception issue---it "looked" remarkably tall so started raising the hair on my neck. Sometimes one over-thinks and the project goals get muddled. Thanks again. Edit: That also drops the height enough that my existing outboard support stands will be adequate as they max out at 36" in adjustability. It's an issue I hadn't considered earlier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted June 7, 2016 Share Posted June 7, 2016 Can you fabricate your forge table so it's inset by a few inches? Kind of like chop and channeling to lower old school hot rods? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Firestarter Posted June 11, 2016 Share Posted June 11, 2016 On 6/6/2016 at 2:43 PM, Kozzy said: ... I was wondering if anyone had used a forge at about 36" tall (to the table) and if there were problems or benefits to running a little taller. ,,, Mine's a little higher. I am very tall, and it's comfortable for me. I aimed for not having to stoop to pick things up off the table. That's between knuckle and wrist height for me. My shop bench is 42" high, and my vise jaws are 45"... just for reference and range. No ergonomics-minded 5'10" man would set up his shop like mine, unless he had little arms like a T-rex that didn't reach down very far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SReynolds Posted June 12, 2016 Share Posted June 12, 2016 Mine is. When I was building this one pictured (key word here; building this) I thought very tall would be better but I burn off my eye brows and the fire seems "very close and HOT" But.............I works well. I would be happy a bit lower, perhaps three/four inches, but not low like the guy used to use back in the days. They were just low. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hexus Posted June 16, 2016 Share Posted June 16, 2016 I'd match up forge height, with anvil height, with bench height. There will be times when they need to be used in conjunction Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arkie Posted June 17, 2016 Share Posted June 17, 2016 6 hours ago, Hexus said: I'd match up forge height, with anvil height, with bench height. There will be times when they need to be used in conjunction Of the three, the anvil height is probably the most important. A smith doesn't hammer on the forge or bench (I hope), therefore those have some height latitude. Hammer blows should be level and square to help prevent hammer marks and dents as much as possible. I think it was Glenn who suggested taking a board of appropriate thickness, similar to most of your work pieces, placing it on the anvil face and striking with your hammer. Find his post. It shows whether your work is too low, too high or just right by the shape of the hammer indentations. Very applicable and a great tip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockstar.esq Posted June 20, 2016 Share Posted June 20, 2016 On 6/6/2016 at 3:55 PM, Charles R. Stevens said: Ideally your probably think about anvil hight. No lifting/lowering from forge to anvil, and you can use the fore/anvil to hold up one end of the stock. Biggest downside to gas forge's is that you either mout it high to make looking in easy, or bend over/squat to look in. Charles, Your post got me thinking that a decent solution might be to put a mirror with a Shade 3 lens on it so you could peak into the low mounted forge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted June 20, 2016 Share Posted June 20, 2016 You know that might be an Idea, would sertainly save my eyebrows! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hexus Posted June 22, 2016 Share Posted June 22, 2016 On 6/17/2016 at 6:30 PM, arkie said: Of the three, the anvil height is probably the most important. A smith doesn't hammer on the forge or bench (I hope), therefore those have some height latitude. Hammer blows should be level and square to help prevent hammer marks and dents as much as possible. If it a large project, the other heights assist the anvil. Sometimes you aren't striking on the steel plated bench, but perhaps a bending fork or a slight adjustment, drilling a hole or center punching. TBH I hit it wherever I can "make it happen", the benches are typically made from 4x6 (more than sturdy enough with 1" plate steel on top). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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