51 Papy Posted April 10, 2016 Share Posted April 10, 2016 Can someone tell what this is and/or what parts are missing. This is a vise as those sure look like vice jaws. But not sure from there. Picked up at a hundred year old barn. This was all the pieces. papy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGGUNDOCTOR Posted April 10, 2016 Share Posted April 10, 2016 It appears that on the back there is a tee shaped tab that would slip into a slot to hold it in position. Was there anything else in the barn that had a tee slot that this would have slid into? Could have also been a hole that it was put into then rotated 90° The hole makes more sense than the slot because it would mean less issues with clearing the screw since it would all be inline with each other. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matto Posted April 10, 2016 Share Posted April 10, 2016 Looks like another version of a cole vise. Just missing the mounting bracket Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
51 Papy Posted April 10, 2016 Author Share Posted April 10, 2016 That was all I could find. I thought it was a post vise when I saw it but then when we unburied it not so much. I'll google Cole Vise and see. Thanks for the help. Papy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gray iron Posted April 10, 2016 Share Posted April 10, 2016 I think that vise attached to a hollow cast anvil . W. E. Canedy pat. No 184,504 1876 or pat no. 426,362 1890 Rochester Mn. There is a picture of one of this style in Postsmans Anvils in America on page 402. I think several companies made this vise based on this design. I had one that had a tapered bracket that attached to a workbench, it was made in Iowa. Most of the hollow anvils broke . Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
51 Papy Posted April 11, 2016 Author Share Posted April 11, 2016 Gray Iron I did a patent search and the 426,360 1890 patent picture sure looks close. Being an old tool hound I want to rebuild this vise. As this is a hobbie not a business time is not an issue. I have plate and a welder (and a master welder that's a buddy). You said most of them broke. What would you use to make the piece that connects the jaw to the bench mount. I was thinking two pieces with the right size hole and then welded together. Looks like this piece would need to be 1/2" thick. Am I chasing a ghost or could I have a functioning vise for light work? Lord knows I don't "Need" another vise but you can always "Use" another vise. Thank you for the information. All I could find was Cole and BC Goble vise pictures. Papy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gray iron Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 Papy , I think your vise mounted to the anvil by rotating the vise through a hole with notches cut to accept the lugs in front of that square nut. You may have to experiment with the bracket thickness in order to get it to cam in tight. The one I had was a little different ,the sides were tapered and the vise dropped down into the bracket. The anvils show up on E-Bay now and then but are usually in rough shape with broken mounts . But you might get lucky and find a good one. That star cut out might be a clue to who manufactured yours. Also look for patent dates or numbers on the inside of the castings. I gave mine away a few years ago and don't have the patent number or manufacturer any more. Yours looks complete except for the coil spring that slips over the screw. Good luck, hope you can make it work. Papy , Forgot to mention that the groove near the top jaw was for a pin that locked the vise once it was rotated in place. You could mill or file one in your bracket. You should be able to fabricate a 90 degree bracket that would work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
51 Papy Posted April 11, 2016 Author Share Posted April 11, 2016 Thanks Gray Iron Looks like I have another project. I appreciate all the help! Papy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave51B Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 That vice looks like a perfect candidate for an electrolysis tank to me. Enjoy..... Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
51 Papy Posted April 11, 2016 Author Share Posted April 11, 2016 Dave I was just reading about that last night. I think your right and plan to give it a try. The jaws don't look like they have been used at all. It will be a fun project. I'll post some pictures when I'm done. Papy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave51B Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 51 Papy, any plastic tube that will hold it.....1 Tbls. washing soda per Gallon of water.....sacrificial electrode to + and part to -....more or less line of site action....12 volt battery charger....pressure washer works a treat for cleaning parts and electrodes... Give it a couple of days.....may need a couple more after that......any Questions....I'll be here Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arkie Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 35 minutes ago, Dave51B said: 51 Papy, any plastic tube that will hold it.....1 Tbls. washing soda per Gallon of water.....sacrificial electrode to + and part to -....more or less line of site action....12 volt battery charger....pressure washer works a treat for cleaning parts and electrodes... Give it a couple of days.....may need a couple more after that......any Questions....I'll be here Dave Papy and Dave, Just a tip here regarding the electrolysis method. You need to use a manual battery charger for your setup. The newer battery chargers are usually automatic and have a sensing circuit that "looks" for a battery to set the charging. If none is found the charger won't perform properly. You can find the "old" style manuals at flea markets, garage sales, etc. If you decide to buy a new one, search the manufacturer's site for one that is manual, not automatic. I got a Schumacher for my setup because my old manual was only about 2 amps and was way too slow. I found a manual charger on their site that went up to about 6 or 12 amps (need to look again for rate) and ordered it online. Works like a charm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yuppiejr Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 Manual battery chargers are still sold, Menards sells the "Die Hard" brand with manual mode in both 2a/6a and 2a/10a varieties and Amazon sells the Schumacher brand units. I've tested manual units from both brands while restoring old barn lanterns and each worked perfectly. This week they have the 6a model on sale for $25, normally $35... great price: http://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardware/automotive-marine-hardware/automotive-batteries-chargers-jumpers/diehard-6-2-amp-battery-charger-12-volt/p-1444445229536-c-9100.htm The 10a model has manual or automatic charge modes making it a bit more versatile if you also want to use the unit to charge batteries: http://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardware/automotive-marine-hardware/automotive-batteries-chargers-jumpers/diehard-10-2-amp-automatic-manual-battery-charger-12-volt/p-1444445229204-c-9100.htm If you're an Amazon fan, Schumacher has options with free Prime shipping: http://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-SE-1052-Manual-Starter-Charger/dp/B000AM8BF4 http://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-SE-82-6-Dual-Rate-Battery-Charger/dp/B0009IBJBM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave51B Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 Thanks Arkie, I forgot about that newfangled charger....I wonder if you put in a battery hooked up in parallel, could you fool it to charge? Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
51 Papy Posted April 12, 2016 Author Share Posted April 12, 2016 Thanks Guys I'll check my charger. This seems like it's pretty straight forward. The article I read said hours not day though. Also said to use an aluminum cookie sheet for an electrode. May have to experiment a little. Thanks Again for the help Papy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 DO NOT use stainless for an electrode. Ends up making some nasty stuff. I do not know about aluminum. Good ole steel for electrodes works just fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arkie Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 9 hours ago, Dave51B said: Thanks Arkie, I forgot about that newfangled charger....I wonder if you put in a battery hooked up in parallel, could you fool it to charge? Dave I don't know what effect it would have on the battery for a electrolysis session of several hours. Some of the manual chargers drop back to a trickle charge if the battery becomes fully charged. That is not enough for electrolysis. An automatic one with a battery would do the same. 3 hours ago, Glenn said: DO NOT use stainless for an electrode. Ends up making some nasty stuff. I do not know about aluminum. Good ole steel for electrodes works just fine. Good point, Glenn. I just use rebar. I grind the wire-electrode to clean bare metal for good contact. 3 hours ago, 51 Papy said: Thanks Guys I'll check my charger. This seems like it's pretty straight forward. The article I read said hours not day though. Also said to use an aluminum cookie sheet for an electrode. May have to experiment a little. Thanks Again for the help Papy With that much rust, you probably are looking at days, not hours. Over a day with very heavy rust, it might be good to change out your electrolyte solution. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave51B Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 23 minutes ago, arkie said: With that much rust, you probably are looking at days, not hours. Over a day with very heavy rust, it might be good to change out your electrolyte solution. Arkie, I have ran a 100 gal. tank for months with the same solution. It still works fine, but boy does it get nasty....I'm kinda surprised no one has mentioned the small amount of hydrogen that is produced.....Also, you will find it helps to clean off the part and the sacrificial electrode everyday or so...... Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 2 hours ago, arkie said: With that much rust, you probably are looking at days, not hours. Over a day with very heavy rust, it might be good to change out your electrolyte solution. Just scrape the scum off the top of the solution and let the rest settle to the bottom of the container. You will need to clean off the electrodes as they get scummy and lose electrical contact with the solution. I have solution that is a year old. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bud in PA Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 Just curious, has anyone tried naval jelly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
51 Papy Posted April 12, 2016 Author Share Posted April 12, 2016 Thanks everyone As always read a lot beware of a lot of info on the web. I have plenty of rebar sounds like a safer bet. Wasn't sure how I was going to get a cookie sheet away from the better half anyway. Maybe this weekend if the charger will work thanks Pay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arkie Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 3 hours ago, Glenn said: Just scrape the scum off the top of the solution and let the rest settle to the bottom of the container. You will need to clean off the electrodes as they get scummy and lose electrical contact with the solution. I have solution that is a year old. I guess I thought that refreshing the solution would make it work better, or at least it seemed to. Next time I'll just leave it alone with just a scum removal. I do clean the electrodes, though. They do get a lot of krud on them. Dave, that's a SERIOUS electrolysis setup! You must do some big pieces. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Ling Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 11 hours ago, 51 Papy said: Thanks Guys I'll check my charger. This seems like it's pretty straight forward. The article I read said hours not day though. Also said to use an aluminum cookie sheet for an electrode. May have to experiment a little. Thanks Again for the help Papy since I also metal detect I find quite a bit of iron "objects" and for me to electrolysis a horse shoe, it normally takes about a day not just a couple hours. im not sure about the larger items though. littleblacksmith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave51B Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 1 hour ago, arkie said: Dave, that's a SERIOUS electrolysis setup! You must do some big pieces. Arkie, I guess it all depends on what you call big...... Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FoxFire Posted April 13, 2016 Share Posted April 13, 2016 I recently heard of, bought, and tried a product called evapo rust. It works very well. Unlike electrolysis it wont last "forever" but the process is very much like electrolysis. One nice bonus is that once you've rinsed and dried the item you can dip it back in the juice to protect it from rusting. According to everything I've read it's about as people friendly as it gets. No nasty fumes and if my hands were already dirty I didn't bother with gloves. It reminds me of antifreeze in appearance and smell. I got a 5gal bucket (something like $86) of it and cleaned up a post vise, 15 or so files, a few wrenches, and just about anything rusty within eyesight and no complaints. I threw in a big old rusted (I mean a 1/3-1/2 had rusted away) wrought iron pin and after 3 days or so it still had some rust so it's not perfect but I wouldn't be able to afford it if it was... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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