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I Forge Iron

Vise ?


51 Papy

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 I think you can tell which half was in the tank......I use phosphoric acid to protect the cleaned part... If you check the ingredients in the navel jelly or any other rust stop solution you should find the same thing....while your at it, check your Pepsi or Coke soft drink... I've been chastised more than once for recommending phosphoric acid as a rust stop.....I could go on, but that's enough for now....             Life is Good             Dave 

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Papy , I  researched all I could find on your vise and believe it was made by Roberts and Langworthy iron works Dubuque Iowa. The old hardware catalogs just  list them as star vises.  Some are marked L&R mfg co. With a raised star. The company became Adams Farwell and even manufactured automobiles. It's still in business as the Adams co. Manufacturing gears. Very interesting history. 

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I tried electrolysis on a post vise I got and it was rusted locked up. I made a rewire basket to line my plastic tub turned on my welder low as it can go with vise suspended into the solution . I ran it several hours over two days , I was able to break it loose. 

Now I need to get a spring for it made to complete the restoration.

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12 minutes ago, Gray iron said:

Papy , I  researched all I could find on your vise and believe it was made by Roberts and Langworthy iron works Dubuque Iowa. The old hardware catalogs just  list them as star vises.  Some are marked L&R mfg co. With a raised star. The company became Adams Farwell and even manufactured automobiles. It's still in business as the Adams co. Manufacturing gears. Very interesting history. 

Gray Iron

Wow I wish I had your research skills. I didn't find any more about this vise.  Thank you for the info.  Just makes me want to get it back in service even more.  I'll get it de-rusted and then get to work.

Thanks Gray Iron and everyone else for the ideas!

Papy

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20 hours ago, Dave51B said:

 Thanks Arkie, I forgot about that newfangled charger....I wonder if you put in a battery hooked up in parallel, could you fool it to charge?            Dave 

I played with a few combos to make my existing automatic charger work including wiring a bad battery in parallel, most of them have an automatic shutoff feature regardless of the battery charge state after a set number of hours.  I dinked with a lot of chargers before discovering the new/manual models and haven't looked back for doing electrolysis cleanup.  A computer power supply or DC welder can also do the trick.

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Question????

The hinge on this vise had rivets.  One side was broken the other side came apart(broke) during electrolysis.  Any suggestions on what I should put back in?  The vise does not show much wear and...it will not be original as I do not have the anvil/hold down piece.  So I'm going to put it to work in the shop.  

Rivet or bolt?  Grade 2, 5 or 8 with ny-lock.  All thoughts are welcome.  I'm leaning toward a bolt as it would be stronger feel free to adjust my attitude 

Pic below is after electrolysis with oil.  Electrolysis is stump stupid easy!

Thanks

Papy

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Biggundoctor

No go on stretching the old rivet. It is only about 3/4" long and ate up.  It looks like two rivets were used not one. But a 5/16" bolt will go all the way through.  Is there an advantage to a rivet, other than historically correct, that I'm not seeing?  If there is, one rivet or two?  I have seen pictures of Cole's with bolts and rivets.

 

Papy

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  • 2 weeks later...

What is the "proper" height for a  vise?  Starting the anvil base and stand.  I know this is a wide open question just looking for some guidance on the floor to top of jaw measurement.  Seems like it should be taller then the anvil but that's a guess.

Thanks

Papy

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Ok now show the pictures of the right height for hammering; and the ones for the right height for using a 8" tall ball stake; and ....

Or to put it succinctly: the proper height depends on what you are using it for---which was not mentioned.  I do most of my filing in a machinist vise and not in any of my postvises. (and it mounts on the hand cranked table of my large drill press so I can move it up and down to get it just right for the item I'm filing.)  Usually the heavier the hammering or the more tools you will be using in the vise the lower it needs to be.  So if you will be forging renaissance armour on stakes, go low!

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Thomas

I knew that the question would more than one answer.  From John's diagram my bench vise is perfect  so, better or worse, I think I will lower the one I'm working on 4 to 6 inches to allow for hitting and bending.  Figure I can raise it up if needed.  

 

Thanks for the input, nice tip on the drill press table.  Going to try that.

 

Papy

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I don't do any hammering on the machinist vise on the drill press table and I have a stout drill press. (2 HP oldschool Dayton motor on it).

I have noticed that my 6" postvises tend to be shorter than some of my 4" ones.  Perhaps they were "designed" for heavier work from the gitgo.

(And yes I am overly fussy about "simple" answers to questions that are wide spanning...I can't even just say what height I use as the 11? I own differ

amongst themselves)

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Thomas

The bench or machinist vise is an old Reed mounted to top of the bench (1/4" plate). I don't hit it (much).  This one will be the one that will be used that's why I think I'm going to lower it some.  I have a small swivel base vise to go on the press and that one will never get beat on.  The old girl is to pretty.  

Thanks

Papy

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  • 2 weeks later...

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