firefarm39 Posted January 11, 2016 Share Posted January 11, 2016 Hi folks, I am looking for ideas on how to attach a couple of door handles for a customer. These are for a church. One of the church members built some beautiful double doors using two types of wood. When the doors are closed the two contrasting woods form the image of the cross. What they want me to do, is make a couple of door pulls in the shape of the nails used to crucify Jesus. Nothing too hard so far, but here is the rub; they don't want to use any kind of through bolts, so I will have to use some kind of stud in the door. The only thing I can think of, is to weld a small tube of some sort onto the handle, slide it over the stud, and use set screws to hold it in place. I am looking for any other ideas, since I am not real confident this will work. Any ideas? I'll try to get some pictures of the doors if that would help. Thanks!! Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DSW Posted January 11, 2016 Share Posted January 11, 2016 I'm not 100% sure I can envision what you are describing. If you are talking about the typical set screw arrangement similar to how many bath fixtures and all are installed today, I personally wouldn't use a set screw unless you locktite them. I see way too many back off under even minimal use. I'd look at something like possibly a roll pin driven in a thru hole possibly or a "bolt" that threads into the stud itself. I'll be curious to see what your handles look like. I do some work occasionally for a church/school and am always on the lookout for project ideas that might interest them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted January 11, 2016 Share Posted January 11, 2016 Also check if there are any ADA requirements it may have to pass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ausfire Posted January 11, 2016 Share Posted January 11, 2016 I'm not too sure what you're describing either. A picture of the handles would help. I'm guessing that they want the nail shaped pulls attached to the doors without any visible means of fixing them, ie. no bolt heads visible. Can you fix from the interior side? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
odblacksmith Posted January 11, 2016 Share Posted January 11, 2016 I think i understand what you mean,I agree with DSW something along the lines of how a bathroom fixture is mounted but more secure or use some sort of roll pin.Either way you slice it something will have to be securely mounted to the door whether it be the handle or the "handle mount".Pictures always help of course...sounds like a cool project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wpearson Posted January 11, 2016 Share Posted January 11, 2016 something like this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Coke Posted January 12, 2016 Share Posted January 12, 2016 Greetings Firefarm, A picture would help but I will make an attempt at a suggestion . You could drill and tap the tap the back side on the top only and use a wall hanger screw .. Threaded on one end and lag on the other.. For the bottom you could counter sink a hole and use a cut off hanger to mate the hole . Than drill a small hole through to the hanger bolt and than a small roll pin. Pien over the pin hole after installation .. With this suggestion it would be a one time thing because you would be the only one that could remove the handle . Just an ol boys 2c. Good luck Forge on and make beautiful things Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SmoothBore Posted January 12, 2016 Share Posted January 12, 2016 6 hours ago, wpearson said: something like this This is a good idea, ... that can most likely be adapted to fit your circumstances. Imagine the black part of the above pictured fasteners, is the part of your Door Pull that's set into the door. As I see it, the Door Pulls would be mortised, or otherwise inlet, into a blind hole, ... ( that does not break through the opposite side of the door ). The inlet portion of the Door Pull would then be retained by the through-bolt, coming in from the edge of the door. The retaining Bolt "head" could be hidden by recessing it in a shallow counter-bore, ... and filling the counter-bored hole flush, with a wooden plug. Using an "extra long" through bolt, ... that passes through the Door Pull, and continues on for a couple of inches, ... will greatly enhance the strength of the "anchor" in the wood. . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted January 12, 2016 Share Posted January 12, 2016 When you say "no through bolts" do you mean through the: doors, handles or both? Each has a solution though the last is pretty permanent. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firefarm39 Posted January 12, 2016 Author Share Posted January 12, 2016 Thank you all for your input. As usual, you all have a great grasp of the problem! Frosty, they prefer no through hole in either the door or the handles, thus the challenge. I had not considered going in the edge of the door . . . I think that has potential! DSW, I agree, the set screw idea is sketchy at best. I haven't built the handles yet, but when I do, I will take pictures. Ausfire, that is the problem, they don't want anything showing on the inside. They are not even using push plates on the interior, which would make my life easier! ADA requirements? Huh, I had not considered that . . . thanks Thomas (I think ) Thanks, one and all! I promise pictures in the near future! Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Culver Creek Hunt Club Posted January 12, 2016 Share Posted January 12, 2016 not sure if each handle has two points of contact or not but if each has only one point of contact can you use a hanger bolt and drill and tap the handle? Thread it on the hanger bolt and use a set screw to keep it from being turned? http://www.rockler.com/steel-hanger-bolts-steel-hanger-bolts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted January 12, 2016 Share Posted January 12, 2016 Uh huh, they don't want to see a fastener at all. Oh how typical. The following method isn't going to come off the doors without doing significant damage to the door or handles or both. Weld barbed spikes to the backs of the plates. Drill a LITTLE smaller holes in matching positions into the second ply of the door. Mix polyester resin and thin it with toluene and squirt it in the holes on one handle site completely coating it. Mix bondo and force into holes and drive the handle spikes into the holes. Give it a couple days to cure completely and the only way they're get the handles off the doors will be rip the doors apart. The polyester resin thinned with toluene will soak into the wood. When the toluene evaporates the resin will set plasticizing the wood. The Bondo will bond permanently to the resin impregnated wood. Putting barbs on the spikes is gravy, coarse threaded bolts work as well if they're a little larger than the hole. Using this technique to secure logs in cabins, Bondo and rebar, makes them almost indestructible without burning first. Be sure you explain to the customer the handles will NOT come off without severely damaging the doors. Let it be their choice, they may decide seeing the fasteners isn't so bad after all. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Evans Posted January 12, 2016 Share Posted January 12, 2016 On my 30 tonne double acting press the the retract/upstroke is about 15tonnes. I have managed to stall the pump when the punch got stuck in a bar. The chuck comprises a Ø38mm (Ø1 1/2") socket with two M8 (5/16") grub screws. They held the 15 tonnes with no problem. For the punches and for blind fixings and things like door pulls I grind a flat or turn a taper for the grub screw to locate on. The taper is angled so that as the strain comes on the grub screw becomes tighter...like a dovetail action in woodwork joints. It has the added advantage that any galling by the grub screw does not throw up a levee on the mating surface and cause jamming so the fixing can be dismantled readily. A couple of heavy stainless steel coach bolts with the heads cut off and tapers for the grub screws would neither give way, nor react with any tannin in the wood and be removable when the wood needs refinishing....always supposing it is not Balsa wood with a heavy door closer on it, in which case the widest bonding surface you can get, à la Frosty's suggestion, the better. Alan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Coke Posted January 12, 2016 Share Posted January 12, 2016 Greetings again Firefarm, Just another thought.. You could use for your standoff parts a wall hanger in the door with a right handed thread that would mate with a tapped hole in your standoff . On the other end facing out drill and tap for a left handed thread in the standoff and in handle .. This would allow the standoff to be rotated to tightly fasten the handle to the door.. A little inventive but it would work. Good luck. Forge on and make beautiful things Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firefarm39 Posted January 13, 2016 Author Share Posted January 13, 2016 The ideas just keep on coming . . . Frosty, Alan, Jim, Thanks for the input!! Culver Creek, I think I need two attachment points, but at this point, all possibilities are still on the table. Thanks! Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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